294RL Refrigerator - Montana Owners Club

Al & Sandy · 04-22-2021, 12:04 PM

I have a new 2021 294RL, which we are finally getting ready to take out. I have a question about the refrigerator which I can't seem to find an answer for in the manuals (which are severely lacking specific information).Since it is the 294, it has the RV refrigerator, not the residential.
When we are traveling, will the refrigerator run off the batteries/inverter, or do we need to leave the propane on and leave it in auto mode to keep it running?

Thanks, Al

jimcol · 04-22-2021, 01:15 PM

You can leave it in auto and it will switch to gas when you disconnect from shore power. Propane must be on. Good idea to make sure the system is bled of air by lighting a stove burner.

mlh · 04-22-2021, 01:41 PM

Just make sure your refrigerator will run on LP. That is made sure the propane line doesn’t have aid in it and I will light.
Lynwood

**DQDick** · 04-22-2021, 02:55 PM

A number of years ago we had a tire blow and rip a hole in the propane line going to the kitchen. We didn't have a fire since we don't run with the fridge on. You will notice that it takes a long time to cool an RV frig down. It also takes a long time for it to heat up. We've traveled 12 hours many times in Arizona with the fridge off and temps over 100 and never had an issue with the fridge getting too hot or something begining to melt in the freezer. As a result of all that we just do not run with the fridge on ever.

**AZ Traveler** · 04-22-2021, 02:56 PM

Al,

If you leave it in auto with your inverter on it will run your batteries down fairly quick. You want it set on gas.

Route66Rambler · 04-22-2021, 04:00 PM

We always leave ours in auto and let it run on propane while traveling. We have Gas Stops on both our tanks so not worried about a failure of propane lines.

https://gasstopusa.com/

Dave W · 04-24-2021, 05:43 AM

Ours stays on auto. Electric at a CG hookup and propane while traveling.

Does a HC actually have an inverter now? Converter/battery charger for sure

DutchmenSport · 04-24-2021, 07:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dave W

Ours stays on auto. Electric at a CG hookup and propane while traveling.

Does a HC actually have an inverter now? Converter/battery charger for sure

When there are two models, as in the poster's case, a 294, the 295 model is an identical model and floor plan and everything. The only difference is the 294 model has an RV refrigerator that runs on both electric and gas. The 295 model has a residential refrigerator, and inverter, and (should) come with 2 twelve volt batteries. Of course, it will also come with the electric transfer switch too.

Mine is the 375 model, residential refrigerator, 2 batteries, inverter and transfer switch. The 394 model is identical, but an RV refrigerator, 1 battery, and no transfer switch.

All the models are like this in he High Country family.

FYI, for the original poster, in all our previous travel trailers, we had RV gas-electric refrigerators and we always kept the setting on "auto". It ran on gas when in tow, and ran electric when plugged into shore power. All RV refrigerators have circuit boars that require the 12 volt battery to power them or they won't work. So you need the house battery charged an turned on.

While in tow, your truck will keep the battery charged. So the draw on the battery from the RV refrigerator is a mute item.

Al & Sandy · 04-24-2021, 08:09 AM

Thanks to you and others for this great information. We have also always run the refrigeratior on Auto, on previous trailers. The dealer had told us when we purchased the Montana that the refrigerator would run off the batteries if it wasnt in Auto, and it was disconnected from shore power. Because of this, I assumed it had a built in inverter. After reading these posts I confirmed it does not have an inverter, so it must run off the batteries in this situation.
We will continue to leave the refrigerator in Auto, as we have with previous trailers. I am also going to look into propane gas stops for emergency gas leak protection.

jimcol · 04-24-2021, 08:37 AM

Just to clarify, the only thing on the refrigerator that runs off the battery is the 12v control board which has a very low draw on your battery. The refrigerator actually cools when the 12v control board opens the gas valve which lights the burner which heats the solution in the tubing to cool the fridge.
You probably already have the gas leak protection. It is an auto shut-off valve in your propane tanks and has been mandatory for the last 15 years or more. If your tank valve handle is 3 nubs somewhat triangular in shape the valve in the tank has the overfill protection device.

Al & Sandy · 04-24-2021, 09:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jimcol

Just to clarify, the only thing on the refrigerator that runs off the battery is the 12v control board which has a very low draw on your battery. The refrigerator actually cools when the 12v control board opens the gas valve which lights the burner which heats the solution in the tubing to cool the fridge.
You probably already have the gas leak protection. It is an auto shut-off valve in your propane tanks and has been mandatory for the last 15 years or more. If your tank valve handle is 3 nubs somewhat triangular in shape the valve in the tank has the overfill protection device.

From what I have read, the newer style OPD tank valves protect against leakage ONLY when the tank is not connected to your propane lines. The in-line connector pushes the OPD out of the way so the propane can be used, which means it is completely a non factor for propane safety when connected to your RV. The gas stops which are connected in-line between your tank valve and RV propane lines, automatically closes when they detect a leak.

Chad, from the Youtube channel "Changing Lanes", does a real good write up on this issue;

https://changinglanesrv.com/gasstop-...pane-shut-off/

Dave W · 04-24-2021, 09:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DutchmenSport

When there are two models, as in the poster's case, a 294, the 295 model is an identical model and floor plan and everything. The only difference is the 294 model has an RV refrigerator that runs on both electric and gas. The 295 model has a residential refrigerator, and inverter, and (should) come with 2 twelve volt batteries. Of course, it will also come with the electric transfer switch too.

Mine is the 375 model, residential refrigerator, 2 batteries, inverter and transfer switch. The 394 model is identical, but an RV refrigerator, 1 battery, and no transfer switch.

All the models are like this in he High Country family.

FYI, for the original poster, in all our previous travel trailers, we had RV gas-electric refrigerators and we always kept the setting on "auto". It ran on gas when in tow, and ran electric when plugged into shore power. All RV refrigerators have circuit boars that require the 12 volt battery to power them or they won't work. So you need the house battery charged an turned on.

While in tow, your truck will keep the battery charged. So the draw on the battery from the RV refrigerator is a mute item.

All of which tells me that unless someone/dealer added an inverter and increased the battery capacity to a HC294RL for some reason., it wont have one.

Thanks for the clarification.

jimcol · 04-26-2021, 05:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Al & Sandy

From what I have read, the newer style OPD tank valves protect against leakage ONLY when the tank is not connected to your propane lines. The in-line connector pushes the OPD out of the way so the propane can be used, which means it is completely a non factor for propane safety when connected to your RV. The gas stops which are connected in-line between your tank valve and RV propane lines, automatically closes when they detect a leak.

Chad, from the Youtube channel "Changing Lanes", does a real good write up on this issue;

https://changinglanesrv.com/gasstop-...pane-shut-off/

I stand corrected on where the safety device is. I thought it was in the tank but after watching the you tube video it is in fact in the pig tail. My experience is it still provides protection when connected to the RV. Opening a connected tank too quickly and it will diminish the gas flow to a level not significant enough to heat a cup of water on the stove if you can even get it to stay lite.

Al & Sandy · 04-26-2021, 08:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jimcol

I stand corrected on where the safety device is. I thought it was in the tank but after watching the you tube video it is in fact in the pig tail. My experience is it still provides protection when connected to the RV. Opening a connected tank too quickly and it will diminish the gas flow to a level not significant enough to heat a cup of water on the stove if you can even get it to stay lite.

As you said, the rv propane line connector should cut-off the majority (maybe 95%) of the gas flow when it detects a leak. I guess a person has to decide if they are willing to live with that, or if they are willing to spend a couple hundred bucks more to have the 100% protection with the gas stops.
There are so many different gadgets that people reccommend for RVs, its hard to know what is necessary and what isnt!!!

Wisconsin Retiree · 04-26-2021, 10:13 AM

One very important item to NOTE. If you travel with fridge running off LP make sure to turn the LP gas off when you pull in to fuel your vehicle and turn LP gas back on after you vacate the pumps...For SAFETY sake

bcrvman · 04-28-2021, 01:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AZ Traveler

Al,

If you leave it in auto with your inverter on it will run your batteries down fairly quick. You want it set on gas.

He said it isn't a residential fridge so no inverter. 12VDC + propane. Just leve it in auto.

rohrmann · 04-28-2021, 02:17 PM

The excess flow valve in the large plastic nut that attaches to the cylinder valve is basically a spring loaded ball bearing that, when more gas is exiting the cylinder than it's designed for, the ball bearing is pushed against a seat that slows down or stops the gas from flowing. This happens quite often when you open the valve on the cylinder too fast and then can't get the furnace to work. This is a cutaway photo of the inside of the nut showing the excess gas flow valve.

bcrvman · 04-28-2021, 02:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Al & Sandy

I have a new 2021 294RL, which we are finally getting ready to take out. I have a question about the refrigerator which I can't seem to find an answer for in the manuals (which are severely lacking specific information).Since it is the 294, it has the RV refrigerator, not the residential.
When we are traveling, will the refrigerator run off the batteries/inverter, or do we need to leave the propane on and leave it in auto mode to keep it running?

Thanks, Al

Just set it in auto. It's not a residential fridge, so no inverter (DC to AC) involved, just a converter (AC to DC)
Some fridges may run off the battery while driving and the truck will keep the battery charged. All propane tanks now come with excess flow valves built in to the hose ends so the crash or blowout scenario is false. The issue of fumes from filling being ignited by the fridge ignitor is also overstated. Many pumps eliminate it and the gas filler position is normally on the other side. The furnace however may be closer but still a one in a million chance.

**AZ Traveler** · 04-28-2021, 08:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bcrvman

He said it isn't a residential fridge so no inverter. 12VDC + propane. Just leve it in auto.

He talked about an inverter so I would not rule it out. I left my reefer in auto (Norcold) and ran my batteries down after a long day driving. The RV reefers use a lot of power on a/c compared to a residential one. Either turn your inverter off or run in gas if you want to run the fridge unless you have a lot of solar to keep your battery bank up.

bcrvman · 04-28-2021, 09:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AZ Traveler

He talked about an inverter so I would not rule it out. I left my reefer in auto (Norcold) and ran my batteries down after a long day driving. The RV reefers use a lot of power on a/c compared to a residential one. Either turn your inverter off or run in gas if you want to run the fridge unless you have a lot of solar to keep your battery bank up.

Did you enable the +12V feed on the 7 pin plug? Many newer trucks for some reason have that feature now. Some dealers leave it off, some turn it on, many folks are totally unaware it exists. Gas + Inverter is not an option I have ever heard of. Gas + Converter is. You are the first person I have ever heard say that the residential fridge uses less power. I have one and put a kill-a-watt meter on it for a couple weeks. It uses 1.5kWh per day. The dealer installed batteries on a big Montana with res fridge is usually only .9kWh usable so the truck needs to be charging that battery as you go down the road.

You may also like: