pendant lights kitchen fix
Well, this all started by trying to make a tool to remove the 921 wedge base bulb in order to replace a bulb that dimmed its light output over time. No success unless you count wasted time, swear words, and breaking glass bulbs. The light dimming...bulb had so much impurities in filament that inside of bulb glass was black. Have had several do this so I'm blaming where the bulb was made! Okay, the fix...either find someone with really long, thin, strong fingers who can reach up inside that fixture globe that narrows down to about an inch wide at the top inside OR do this... I ordered two bayonet sockets from Bulbworks, Inc so I could change from wedge base bulbs to bayonet base bulbs...ie, 1141, etc. What I ordered was their 15 mm single connection socket, BW.SCB-30-2 socket. It comes with a short piece of threaded rod out of the back of the socket, has a black power lead and white ground lead that are over three feet long and the wire rating is 600 v/105c. Socket is rated for 75 watts. After removing the wedge socket you are left with a short piece of threaded rod inside. To adapt the new socket to the remainder of the fixture, use a lamp coupling adapter. The one I got at Ace hardware is made by Jandorf, solid brass, # 60144 and is what they call 1/8 ip x 1/8 ip. It's a brass tube that has mating female threads for the threaded rod in the fixture and the back of the socket and is 5/8 inch long. Harder to write this than do the conversion. So now I can run 1141 bulbs until I find led bulbs at 3000 kelvin and the right output in lumens that meet the Admirals approval. HEY PEOPLE, I can easily change the bulb now and its not a wedgie! John
__________________
2012 F350 6.7 L dually, 2013 3800RE with 6 pt leveling, Sumitomo 17.5" load range h tires, Samsung 18 cu ft residential fridge, 8k Morryde I.S. with disc brakes. Full timing since 2012.
|