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01-27-2009, 06:09 AM
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#1
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Reading
Posts: 135
M.O.C. #8751
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Tire & axle service
I've read on one of the threads something about supporting the frame first before jacking up one tire, as to reduce the amount of weight on that spot. Before I do something stupid like jacking up under one axle, and bend something, I wanted to get the low-down from the experts here. Jim
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01-27-2009, 06:42 AM
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#2
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Montana Master
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Kville
Posts: 2,865
M.O.C. #7871
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Yes, there are some experts here...but there is also a lot of bad/misinformation put out here. Jacking the Montana is a good example. After mixed information on the subject, I read my manuals, called Lippert and called Keystone. They were all in agreement that the hydraulic jack should go under the frame close to the spring hanger.
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01-27-2009, 07:10 AM
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#3
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Montana Master
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Texico
Posts: 1,917
M.O.C. #6150
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Whether I'm working on one tire or four, I use a bottle jack under the axle, close to the wheel, between the u-bolts if possible. It takes very little lift (2 to 3 inches) to get the tire off the ground using this method. If you jack against the frame, it takes a great deal of lift (6 to 10 inches or more) to get the tire off the ground, because you first have to get the weight off the spring. This method puts a tremendous twist in the frame that (I believe) can cause permanent damage.
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01-27-2009, 07:25 AM
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#4
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Montana Master
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Brandon
Posts: 3,944
M.O.C. #1034
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I use a bottle jack just as LonnieB describes and have always believed that to be the best way to go. As Lonnie says it just takes a lift of 2-3 inches to get the tire off the ground enough to do the job. I always rationalized this with the knowledge that any given pothole that our unit may have dropped into must have been at LEAST that deep.
__________________
Darwin & Maureen DeBackere
Minnedosa, Manitoba, Canada
2011/3500/Silverado/4x4/DRW/Duramax
2017/3721RL/Legacy Pkg./Pressure-Pro
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01-27-2009, 07:58 AM
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#5
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Montana Master
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Casa Grande
Posts: 5,369
M.O.C. #6333
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I have changed two flats on my 5er and both times used a bottle jack exactly where Lonnie says and no problems. I do not consider myself an expert but I believe in what the tire guy, Lonnie, says. Maybe a jack stand under the frame after jacking, just as a precautionary measure. But being careful is the keynote here.......
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01-27-2009, 10:34 AM
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#6
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Montana Master
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Cedar Rapids
Posts: 4,876
M.O.C. #1944
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I do as Lonnie does. No need to worry about frame twisting or other possible damage.
Orv
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01-27-2009, 10:57 AM
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#7
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Montana Master
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Kville
Posts: 2,865
M.O.C. #7871
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Okay, so one of you guy tell me why you lift the wheel by putting the jack under the axle...when the manuals (and Lippert and Keystone) say put it under the spring hanger. Also, on page 60 of the Dexter Operation Maintenance Service Manual..."CAUTION do not lift or support the trailer on any part of the axle or suspension system." What am I missing here?
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01-27-2009, 11:54 AM
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#8
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Montana Master
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Texico
Posts: 1,917
M.O.C. #6150
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Think about this Tom.
As the trailer is rolling along, the tires go across bumps in the road. As they do this the axles move up and down, as they are designed to do. Between the springs, there is an equalizer that compensates for this movement to keep the weight of the trailer distributed evenly on three points where the springs attach to the frame. Lifting a wheel by placing a jack under the axle, where the u-bolts attach the spring to the axle, is doing nothing more than allowing the springs, and equalizer to do what they are designed to do, support the load evenly on three points. The axle is a hollow tube, with a solid spindle shaft welded into each end. This solid shaft goes into the tube 6 to 8 inches, usually a couple of inches past the area where the u-bolts are located. There is no way you can bend an axle by jacking it up in this area.
Quote:
quote:Lippert and Keystone) say put it under the spring hanger. Also, on page 60 of the Dexter Operation Maintenance Service Manual..."CAUTION do not lift or support the trailer on any part of the axle or suspension system." What am I missing here?
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I honestly don't know the answer to this, unless it's to make absolutely sure nobody places a jack too far inboard from the wheel, which will most definately bend the axle.
I have been building and working on trailers since I was 15 years old, that's 35 years, and I have never bent an axle by jacking between the u-bolts. However, I have seen frames twisted beyond repair from jacking on them. I will continue to place my jacks on the axles between the u-bolts, and I will fire, on the spot, anyone who works for me, for jacking on the frame of a camper trailer.
Think about what that twist is doing to the interior components of the trailer, and even the slides. It can't be good.
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01-27-2009, 12:41 PM
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#9
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Montana Master
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Kville
Posts: 2,865
M.O.C. #7871
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Thanks for the explanation...what you say makes sense.
I recently rotated my tires...did it by hooking up to the truck (wanted to be sure nothing moved) then jacked up each of the four wheels, in turn, by placing the jack by the spring hanger. Since the wheels are pretty much centered, I did not notice and twisting.
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01-27-2009, 02:56 PM
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#10
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Montana Master
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Wappingers Falls
Posts: 1,303
M.O.C. #6263
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Same method been used here for many years on all my vehicles...all good posts of information
Lifting at spring hanger provides most efficient lift displacement location and least stress to structure
Lifting on axle in other locations is bad due to additional weight has to be displaced and likely will exceed axle rating
If simultaneous multiple axle work is required then lifting can be performed at the frame but point load must be distributed over broad area
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01-27-2009, 04:04 PM
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#11
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Haldimand County
Posts: 2,413
M.O.C. #122
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Truth is, neither Lippert nor Dexter really want you to put your jack under their particular component. Like others, I jack under the axle as close as practical to the U-bolts. I try to spread the load a bit by adding a piece of 2 x 4 between the jack and the axle tube. This is not ideal, but in the real world I think it is about the best we can do. I have also observed that this is what the "pros" do at the service shops.
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01-27-2009, 04:08 PM
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#12
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: St Johns
Posts: 434
M.O.C. #7691
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I lift the frame with a jack until I take some of the load off the spring then use a smaller jack to lift the axle. Neither frame, equalizer or axle gets stressed. I just bought a new combined jack stand-bottle jack for the frame. It has a ratchet locking mechanism. I am thinking of getting another for the axle as it has a wide flat head with shoulders and a large flat base. Overkill, maybe, but the caution is cheap insurance.
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01-28-2009, 01:20 AM
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#13
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Moab
Posts: 316
M.O.C. #6756
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to change a flat I keep 2 wooden cap blocks on board the truck. they are 18" long and taper from 4" to 1 1/2", I just stack em and drive the good tire up on them and the flat is off the ground, no jack required! Best part is I have NOT had to use them on Monty in 10K so far!
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01-28-2009, 01:41 AM
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#14
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Lobelville
Posts: 2,128
M.O.C. #6650
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We have a bottle jack and a set of jack stands that we carry. When we had the Tredit Aluminum wheel problem cracked wheels. I replaced them with Alcoa Aluminum wheels. I had to remove the wheels two at a time and have the tires switched out two at a time. Never ever just use a bottle jack, always have a jack stand under the load. GBY...
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01-28-2009, 02:20 AM
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#15
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Haldimand County
Posts: 2,413
M.O.C. #122
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Another technique that I have seen used in a service shop is this. Drop the front legs to their lowest level and the rear wheels will lift off the ground. With adequate blocking (big solid blocks to spread the load), you can then lift up the front end and get all four wheels off the ground. Perhaps not something to do at home, but the first part for getting the rear wheels off the ground could be useful in a pinch.
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01-28-2009, 05:21 AM
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#16
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Montana Master
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Kville
Posts: 2,865
M.O.C. #7871
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by nunya
to change a flat I keep 2 wooden cap blocks on board the truck. they are 18" long and taper from 4" to 1 1/2", I just stack em and drive the good tire up on them and the flat is off the ground, no jack required! Best part is I have NOT had to use them on Monty in 10K so far!
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I'm certainly no expert, but it seems to me that if you have the entire side of the trailer on one side of one axle, you will nearly double the capacity rating for that axle. For example, 6k axles (that's 3k per side) and the RV weighs 12k (6k per side).
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01-28-2009, 05:59 AM
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#17
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Holly Springs
Posts: 147
M.O.C. #6534
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I raised all four wheels with ramps like this and ended up having to replace both axles as they bent. Didn't know it untill I wore out all four tires in a little over 2000 miles. . .
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01-30-2009, 06:01 AM
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#18
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Reading
Posts: 135
M.O.C. #8751
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I'm sorry for opening this can of worms! I think I'll use 2 jacks.
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01-30-2009, 06:35 AM
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#19
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Montana Master
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Casa Grande
Posts: 5,369
M.O.C. #6333
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beakyfudd, I don't see a "can of worms", just differing opinions and practices by a lot of different people. I think it is always a good thing to ask the question so you can get an idea of what different folks do then form your own opinion as you have done. Just some folks more opinionated than others, that's not a bad thing. No reason to be sorry!!!
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01-30-2009, 06:42 AM
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#20
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: North Ridgeville
Posts: 20,229
M.O.C. #2839
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I go with the tire guys. Both Lonnie and mine at home. I suspect they know better than I do.
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