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10-19-2008, 11:00 AM
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#1
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Auburn
Posts: 121
M.O.C. #7533
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Winterizing
I have a early model 2008 3400RL and I want to blow out the water lines with air...In the convience center, there are two clear plastic PC lines coming out of the trailer and pointing straight down to the ground. On these two lines, there are valves to open and close the lines... What I am wanting to know, are these the end of the water lines loop? Can I open these valves and blow air into the winterize fitting in the convience center and blow air until the air returns back out of these two lines pointing down towards the ground...Or, do I have to go inside the trailer and open all valves and empty each line one at a time??? As you can see, this is my first time doing this and I am not using the anit-freeze method as I am only going to be leaving the trailer for about 4 weeks and I will be right back into the trailer. I am in the Seattle area and I don't really expect that many nights below freezing but I just want to empty the lines as a precaution. Thanks for any help
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10-19-2008, 11:26 AM
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#2
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Montana Master
Join Date: May 2003
Location: New Bern
Posts: 4,294
M.O.C. #311
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by muddflapp
I have a early model 2008 3400RL and I want to blow out the water lines with air...In the convience center, there are two clear plastic PC lines coming out of the trailer and pointing straight down to the ground. On these two lines, there are valves to open and close the lines... What I am wanting to know, are these the end of the water lines loop? These are the "low points" so you open them and let the water drain and come out when you put air pressure into the lines. Can I open these valves and blow air into the winterize fitting (This winterize fitting is for sucking RV antifreeze into the lines with the fresh water pump. It switches the pump from the fresh water holding tank to that fitting.)in the convience center and blow air until the air returns back out of these two lines pointing down towards the ground...You hook your air compressor to the main water line and blow air in there. Do not exceeded 60LBS. Or, do I have to go inside the trailer and open all valves and empty each line one at a time???I do close the low points and open one faucet at a time to drain water out of them too. I always leave on open, open the next then go back and close the first fauct. This prevents the air from building too much pressure. As you can see, this is my first time doing this and I am not using the anit-freeze method as I am only going to be leaving the trailer for about 4 weeks and I will be right back into the trailer. I am in the Seattle area and I don't really expect that many nights below freezing but I just want to empty the lines as a precaution. Thanks for any help
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Remember to drain your hot water heater by pulling the anode rod. I then apply air pressure to help it drain. Don't forget the out side faucet right there in the center and the washer lines if you are prepped. Do not forget to blow out the Black tank flush line which is just below the fresh water line. Put anti freeze in each of your traps and I put about 1/2 a gallon in each of the gray, galley(if you have it) and black holding tanks.
Others will be along with the way they winterize. Good luck, keep the questions coming.
Cheers,
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10-19-2008, 11:40 AM
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#3
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Montana Master
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Lone Tree
Posts: 5,615
M.O.C. #6109
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Looks like John has it covered.
I just end up antifreezing, even for short term, because it just seems so easy and a trust it a little better. It also is easier to antifreeze the wash machine than it is to purge it with air.
I do blow out the tank fill line from the convenience center. It keeps antifreeze out of the water tank.
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10-19-2008, 12:16 PM
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#4
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: St Catharines
Posts: 176
M.O.C. #6415
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When draining the hot water tank don't forget to flip open the pressure relief valve at the top of the tank. This allows the water to drain out more quickly helping to wash out some of the sludge at the bottom of the tank. I used an aluminum tent peg to make a hook shaped tool to reach through the drain hole and stir up more of the sludge and cause it to be carried out by the water outflow.
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10-19-2008, 01:31 PM
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#5
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Clearwater
Posts: 10,917
M.O.C. #420
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Looks like they covered it quite well but I have the best way of winterizing my Monty.
Every fall as the temps start dropping I start the process and a very simple process at that. You see I point the TV and Monty in a southerly direction and don't stop until I reach the no freeze zone. For us this is usually central Florida. For others it maybe Texas or Arizona. This simple process has worked for us for the past 5 winters.
Sorry 'bout that but I just couldn't resist. Been waiting for weeks for someone to start a winterizing post.
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10-19-2008, 01:40 PM
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#6
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Auburn
Posts: 121
M.O.C. #7533
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Glen, I like your idea of winterizing also...The trouble is that my grandkids are up in Seattle and that is why we bought the monty is to be able to see the grandkids more....so no trips to the warm weather regions for this camper
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10-19-2008, 01:53 PM
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#7
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Montana Master
Join Date: May 2003
Location: New Bern
Posts: 4,294
M.O.C. #311
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Also remember to turn off the power switch and put the pin in (for the HOT WATER HEATER) when you pull the anode rod. That prevents you from burning the element with no water in it.
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10-19-2008, 04:26 PM
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#8
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Montana Master
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Weeki Wachee
Posts: 814
M.O.C. #7219
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Glen is right. That's the reason two cities in Florida are named Frostproof and Winterhaven.
Hugh
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10-25-2008, 07:18 AM
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#9
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Montana Master
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Oceanside
Posts: 20,028
M.O.C. #20
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You mentioned wanting to blow out the lines with air. Those lines you refer to are the low point drains. You should open those drains and allow all water to drain out. I'd close them again and then blow out the lines. The way I used to do it is to go to Walmart and spend 3 or 4 bucks for a fitting that screws into the city water connectin. It has a tire type valve on the end. Connect that to your air source and blow. I'd keep pressure down to no more than about 50 psi so you don't damage anything. Open one faucet at a time until all water is blown out of it. Don't forget the outside shower line. After doing this for all faucets, open the low point drains again and let the residual water drain out. YOu might go ahead and apply some more air while they are open.
Others covered most everything else. The one thing I'd add is to relieve the pressure and thus the water behind the city water connection point. Remove the washer / screen. Behind there you'll see a white pin (on a one-way checkvalve). Press that pin to release the pressure and any trapped water. Stand back as you can get sprayed pretty good. If you can reach the back of the city water connection you can just remove the hose instead of pushing the pin.
I prefer to use antifreeze, or did when I had to winterize. However, a few times I used air and had no problems. Just be thorough about it.
Regardless of method, air or antifreeze, I'd recommend you pour a little antifreeze in the toilet to keep the seal from drying out. I never bothered to leave antifreeze in any of the tanks. There's nothing much left to freeze and if there is a gallon or two in there, there's plenty of room for ice to expand without damaging anything. Same for the water heater. I just drained it and left the drain open.
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10-29-2008, 03:07 PM
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#10
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Montana Master
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Shelburne
Posts: 688
M.O.C. #8693
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Is it sufficient to turn off the hot water tank heaters electric/propane using the switches inside the trailer?
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10-29-2008, 04:04 PM
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#11
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Site Team
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Omaha
Posts: 6,794
M.O.C. #7560
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I'd turn off the toggle switch on the outside of the unit by the water heater and to be safe turn off the breaker in the panel also! I just shut the whole LP down for the whole Monty for the gas part of it! You did drain the water heater didn't you? If not, that needs to be done also so you don't have "skunky" water in it the next time you go to use it! I remove the anode rod and try to blow the tank out if I can with my homemade little tube for such purposes. Then I put the anode rod back in but don't tighten it up all the way. Be sure to use thread tape on the threads on the rod if possible also!
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11-01-2008, 06:51 AM
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#12
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Auburn
Posts: 121
M.O.C. #7533
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I leave the anode rod out and I also used the compressor to blow out the hot water tank also. I only turn the electric off at the breaker switch. I guess both switches off would just be a safety thing?
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11-02-2008, 04:03 AM
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#13
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Powell
Posts: 250
M.O.C. #7880
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I add about a three pound bucket of water softening salt to the inside of the coach, it seems to help keep the humidity down. I just use a plastic bucket and leave the lid off. We started doing this with our pop-up and it seemed to make a difference. Jon
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