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02-02-2010, 07:27 PM
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#1
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Bakersfield
Posts: 214
M.O.C. #3933
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Torque/Foot Pounds after bearing check?
I've seen a lot of discussion about how/when & in what manner to repack the wheel bearings, but don't recall seeing anything about how tight to snug up the bearing nut after having taken the wheel off to inspect or repack the bearings. I have seen other literature here or there but it seems to me that not all of them agreed with each other. Any hints out there? mike
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02-03-2010, 02:25 AM
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#2
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Benson
Posts: 3,121
M.O.C. #1658
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Mike,
Dexter says tighten nut to 50 ft. lbs. while rotating hub, back nut off (don't rotate hub), snug nut up with your fingers and install retainer, nut should slightly loose. You can read more here
http://dexteraxle.com/i/u/1080235/f/...rings_2-08.pdf
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02-03-2010, 06:56 PM
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#3
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Bakersfield
Posts: 214
M.O.C. #3933
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Charlie - thanks for the info & link. It's often difficult to obtain authoritative instructions. The link has some other useful info I will probably need in the future. Appreciate it. mike
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02-04-2010, 01:51 PM
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#4
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Montana Master
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Wappingers Falls
Posts: 1,303
M.O.C. #6263
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I agree with this input...my understanding of what this procedure is doing.
Repack of bearing puts grease into bearing assembly expanding rollers off raceway...not a bad thing just what happens.
Assembly unit and put thrust washer, nut on...crank down to compress rollers against raceways both in cage and cone, sounds like 50 ft lbs is a number that makes this happen.
I don't use torque wrench to do this, just a wrench and kind of, crank to a "what feels tight" (performing compression to seat the rollers, push out packed grease spacing) and back off using no pressure to point that sets zero slop (in/out looseness) then insert cotter pin.
Ok, so sounds like I'm clueless? I guess so, but trained by father and been doing it for 35 years...
When apart it is important to do the following;
1. Clean all old grease out
2. Visually, inspect cone (bearings assembly) for pits
3. Visually, inspect cup (raceway) for pits
4. Repack until grease oozes out cage all the way around cone by hand packing
5. Assemble but no need to add any more grease than what was packed in step 4
6. Always keep assemblies together as a "set"...never mix up!!! They are married for life as cage/cone pairs.
Good luck and be safe!
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02-04-2010, 02:31 PM
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#5
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Montana Master
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Apache Junction
Posts: 1,732
M.O.C. #7487
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by noneck
I agree with this input...my understanding of what this procedure is doing.
Repack of bearing puts grease into bearing assembly expanding rollers off raceway...not a bad thing just what happens.
Assembly unit and put thrust washer, nut on...crank down to compress rollers against raceways both in cage and cone, sounds like 50 ft lbs is a number that makes this happen.
I don't use torque wrench to do this, just a wrench and kind of, crank to a "what feels tight" (performing compression to seat the rollers, push out packed grease spacing) and back off using no pressure to point that sets zero slop (in/out looseness) then insert cotter pin.
Ok, so sounds like I'm clueless? I guess so, but trained by father and been doing it for 35 years...
When apart it is important to do the following;
1. Clean all old grease out
2. Visually, inspect cone (bearings assembly) for pits
3. Visually, inspect cup (raceway) for pits
4. Repack until grease oozes out cage all the way around cone by hand packing
5. Assemble but no need to add any more grease than what was packed in step 4
6. Always keep assemblies together as a "set"...never mix up!!! They are married for life as cage/cone pairs.
Good luck and be safe!
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That is also how my mechanic father taught me how to do it.
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