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06-12-2006, 10:23 AM
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#1
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Seasoned Camper
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Bridewater
Posts: 58
M.O.C. #4650
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Ticking Brakes
Over the weekend while I fixing another brake problem I noticed that each of the wheel hubs had this very faint ticking sound about once every 3 seconds. If I dissconnected my 7 pin connecter the ticking went away. If I connected it back up it would resume ticking. Of course when I stepped on the brake pedal you could hear each wheel hum. The brakes seem to work fine. Any thoughts?
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06-12-2006, 11:26 AM
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#2
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: San Marcos
Posts: 327
M.O.C. #572
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I assume this sound came with the wheels "static" and not rotating---like not up on jack stands or anything. This phased interval almost sounds like an ignitor on the fridge or H2O heather trying to cycle a LP ignition.
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06-13-2006, 04:16 AM
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#3
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Seasoned Camper
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Bridewater
Posts: 58
M.O.C. #4650
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definatly not that, longer interval of time and very faint
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06-13-2006, 11:02 AM
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#4
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: San Marcos
Posts: 327
M.O.C. #572
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This is really weird. Did you have your ignition key on or off? I've seen really weird "feedback" problems on some of our fleet vehicles---like if the seat belt light flashes, Haz Indicators on or door ajar indicator lights up it could be feeding into the brake circuit somehow; usually through a bad ground (does not make sense, but it happens especially on boat trailers)---I don't know. Did you call Dexter or Al-Ko about this? I'm going to ask some of my colleagues who do custom auto electrical work & see what they think....keep us posted, OK...!
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06-14-2006, 03:13 AM
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#5
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: San Marcos
Posts: 327
M.O.C. #572
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I thought about your problem for awhile last night. If I may offer the following isconnect your 7-pin umbilical lead.Make sure everything in the coach is "off"---fridge, H2O pump, H2O heater, lights---this will eliminate any potential "parasitic draw"/possible feedback issues on the coach side. With a multi-meter set to "volts" and your key "off' and door closed, check each pin on the tow vehicle's recepticle. If I did my homework correctly, the only "hot" pin should be your 12 volt Power (charge) pin. The rest of the pins should read "0" volts. Now, turn on your key and close the door. Read your tow vehicle pins again. Your Power (charge) lead should be hot and, depending on how your Dodge is wired, possibly the clearance light pin should read 12 volts. Your brake pin should read "0". If you get a brake pin reading, then the problem is between the brake controller & the recepticle. Start the engine and leave the door open. Check your pins again. If you notice any "pulsating voltage" especially on the "brake pin", you've found the problem. Its isolated to the Dodge; you have a feedback problem or a poor ground connection. If all of your readings are normal, then plug-in your umbilical lead. If you still get the ticking with the key "off" and doors closed, then you may have a crossed/shorted wire in your umbilical lead between the 12 volt Power (charge) wire and the brake control lead on the coach side. If you have a clamp-on amp meter, leave the unit plugged in and clamp around each brake lead by the wheels. If you get a reading, then you have isolated the problem to the brake control circuit or the 12 volt circuits in the coach. With the unit still plugged in, disconnect your 12 volt coach battery (s). This step will positively eliminate any 12 volt loads in the coach---propane alarm included as well as a possible faulty break-away switch.If the ticking stops, you have the problem narrowed down to the coach wiring system. If the ticking persists with the coach plugged in and your 12 volt coach system isolated (turned off), I would wager its a controller wiring problem as everything else has been isolated. Too bad you don't live in So. Cal---I would enjoy helping you troubleshoot the systems----kind of a challenge for an old "gear-head".
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06-14-2006, 06:44 AM
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#6
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Seasoned Camper
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Bridewater
Posts: 58
M.O.C. #4650
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Wow, GREAT info, i'll check all that and let you know how i make out. I don't seem to have any other type of electrical issues that I am aware of but now you have me thinking. THANKS
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06-14-2006, 01:36 PM
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#7
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Benson
Posts: 3,121
M.O.C. #1658
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If you have a Prodigy brake controller that is what it is. The controller is constantly checking the system by sending low voltage pulses to the brakes.
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06-14-2006, 03:53 PM
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#8
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Seasoned Camper
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Bridewater
Posts: 58
M.O.C. #4650
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I do have a prodigy, that's an interesting concept. I'll check that with having my buddy plug his truck into my rig and I'll plug into his. I never read or heard anything on this, but it sure seems to make sence. - thanks I'll reply once I run this experiment to clarify.
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06-15-2006, 03:24 AM
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#9
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Seasoned Camper
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Bridewater
Posts: 58
M.O.C. #4650
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Just called Prodigy technical assistance and confirmed what 8.1al reported. He was right on the money. The tech rep said the controller sends out a signal looking for the magnets every few seconds to confirm the integrity of the system. The faint sound is the magnets getting a weak signal, not enough to activate the brakes.
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