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07-05-2020, 03:56 PM
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#21
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Seasoned Camper
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: duncan
Posts: 65
M.O.C. #16056
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Hi Gordon
I had the same thing happen to us travelling. I purchased some real nice 3/16" stainless steel carriage bolts [ marine store], bolted thru to a galvanized electrical box cover on the inside, then fastened the strut knuckle to that with regular metal screws, never failed again, the plate inside takes the strain off the particle board door.
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07-05-2020, 05:12 PM
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#22
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Established Member
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Muncie
Posts: 10
M.O.C. #23311
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Had the same issue. Get a piece of 1/4” plywood and cut out a piece about 5”x5”. Glue it on the spot where the arm attaches to the door. I used Gorilla glue and it worked really well. You can then let it set for a couple of hours and then reattach the arm plate. Worked great for me. I had to do both sides of both doors.
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07-05-2020, 05:18 PM
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#23
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Montana Master
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Gardnerville
Posts: 1,281
M.O.C. #17163
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So far this has worked for me.. Toothpicks and elmers wood glue. Use same holes and stuff as many picks and glue them in..
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07-05-2020, 05:50 PM
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#24
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New Member
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Leander
Posts: 5
M.O.C. #23478
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Use thru bolts with flat washers and lock washers.
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07-05-2020, 06:03 PM
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#25
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New Member
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Palm Coast
Posts: 1
M.O.C. #20398
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I had the same thing happen but it was 6 screws and it took a chunk out of the door. I removed the door and put gorilla glue in the hole it left then put a pressure clamp on the chunk it pulled out till it dried. Replaced screws with 1/4” longer wood screws.
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07-05-2020, 07:42 PM
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#26
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Established Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Wenatchee
Posts: 39
M.O.C. #14662
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Dowel idea worked fine for me. However I use gorilla glue the type that foams. Put glue in hole and wet dowel then drive in with a hammer and break off. The bonding of the foaming gorilla glue is fantastic. I glued some boards together then took them apart. The wood failed before the glue joint did.
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07-05-2020, 08:13 PM
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#27
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Montana Master
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: 1000 oaks
Posts: 978
M.O.C. #19630
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rohrmann
This is what I did on both sides quite a few years ago, and haven't had anything come loose since. I used 1/8" X 2" aluminum, #10 X 1/4" round head screws threaded into tapped holes in the aluminum, and then #10 sheet metal screws to hold the aluminum plate to the doors. I used no glue or adhesive. The problem with the short brackets is, when the door is closed, the gas strut is pushing the bracket in one direction, and when the door is opened, the gas strut is pushing the bracket in the opposite direction, and the screws they used to attach the bracket to the door were a size too small which allowed the bracket to move back and forth.
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This is also what I did with the same problem. No issues since. Use self tapping screws into the Al if you don't have a tap.
__________________
2011 2955RL Gen-Y Executive Kingpin
2022 GMC 2500HD Duramax/Alison
4X4 Crew Cab/Standard bed.
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07-05-2020, 08:17 PM
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#28
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Established Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Irving
Posts: 16
M.O.C. #20130
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JB weld can’t go wrong
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07-05-2020, 08:31 PM
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#29
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Seasoned Camper
Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: Burnet
Posts: 85
M.O.C. #24564
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With the door fully open, move the bracket over far enough to get a fresh place, close to the original location, and screw it in place there. Carefully drill pilot holes the proper size for your screws. The other end has a ball and socket fitting and all should still function good as new. The torn out holes are on the inside of the door and can't be seen when the door is closed anyway. Flatten the damaged area and use wood putty to patch the holes. Maybe use a similar color touch up paint on the wood putty if you want to hide it a little better or maybe put tape over the area. This is what I would do if it happened to me.
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07-06-2020, 09:23 AM
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#30
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Albany
Posts: 409
M.O.C. #11972
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This happened to one hinge on each of my pass-thru doors. I removed the gas pressure dampers, drilled 4 new holes for each hinge plate, enlarged the original holes in the hinge plates and filled the holes for the original screws in the doors with wood filler. After giving the wood filler several days to dry well I drilled holes for larger screws in the doors and installed larger diameter, coarse thread screws coated with epoxy. That was several years ago and so far so good.
__________________
2012 3150RL. G614 tires. Hardwired surge protector. Level-Up Hydraulic leveling.
2013 F-350 Lariat 6.7 PSD SRW SC LB 4X4 OEM hitch, air self-leveling on rear. 57-gallon replacement fuel tank. DieselSite water separator/fuel filter.
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07-06-2020, 09:26 AM
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#31
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Georgetown
Posts: 310
M.O.C. #18751
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mlh
This is exactly what I would do. I would leave it aluminum color. I would counter sink the holes on the outside and run the bolts either 8 32 or 10 32 into the inside. You would need a 41 degree counter sink.
Lynwood
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Agree. Best solution imho.
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07-06-2020, 12:46 PM
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#32
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New Member
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Charlotte
Posts: 9
M.O.C. #22429
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Fill all the holes with glue covered toothpicks, let dry overnight and reuse the same holes. Good luck
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07-06-2020, 01:28 PM
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#33
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Established Member
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Soddy-Daisy
Posts: 18
M.O.C. #22692
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rohrmann
This is what I did on both sides quite a few years ago, and haven't had anything come loose since. I used 1/8" X 2" aluminum, #10 X 1/4" round head screws threaded into tapped holes in the aluminum, and then #10 sheet metal screws to hold the aluminum plate to the doors. I used no glue or adhesive. The problem with the short brackets is, when the door is closed, the gas strut is pushing the bracket in one direction, and when the door is opened, the gas strut is pushing the bracket in the opposite direction, and the screws they used to attach the bracket to the door were a size too small which allowed the bracket to move back and forth.
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This is the best way!!!
__________________
Terry & Charlotte
2011 Ford F-350 Lariet 4x4 SRW
2019 Montana 3791RD
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07-07-2020, 06:45 PM
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#34
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: Sidney,B.C.
Posts: 138
M.O.C. #23585
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dieselguy
Over the years, some owners have found they have the wrong struts installed as in too much force. Others have fabbed a much larger plate out of say aluminum to allow for more crews to be installed overall for more holding power. The door core is cheap particleboard no matter what brand of RV.
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I have just finished making a 4" x 6" x 1/8" aluminum plate, with a corner arc to match the inside of the cargo door, to address the exact same thing. So far, seems to work fine.
I think part of the key to success is to drill clearance holes for # 10 sheet metal screws about 1" apart, all around the outer edge of the plate, and then a pattern of holes about 1/2" outside the bracket of the strut. Then drill pilot holes in the particle board to suit the screws used (like # 10 screws). Be careful to not drill through the fiberglass skin of the cargo door !
I initially thought I would also bond the plate onto the inside skin with sealant, but eventually just put sealant into each screw hole to help avoid water following the screws into the particle board.
Sorry, no pictures. The work was performed in the remote storage area, and I forgot the camera. It's straightforward work, just annoying because of the cheap-and-nasty approach used to build these doors.
Eric on the Left Coast
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05-03-2023, 03:30 PM
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#35
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New Member
Join Date: May 2023
Location: Gaines
Posts: 5
M.O.C. #32683
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Ours looks just like this. Both struts pulled away. Door wood seemed wet. Leaking seal at top. 2022 3121 legacy. It’s got the expensive paint job so we can’t drill thru All the way?😫probably need new door?
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