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10-02-2019, 04:03 PM
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#21
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Established Member
Join Date: Oct 2019
Location: New Columbia
Posts: 12
M.O.C. #25031
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PNW Fireguy
hard to tell from your photo but looks as if your stripped portion of the connections are marred. I would make sure all your connections are tight and that your wire stripping has not damaged the strands or worse yet broken them. These will all generate heat and cause the kind of damage your photos exhibit. On another note be sure to de-energize the AC connections before performing any of these checks including measuring resistance.
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I called the company and spoke with tech support, very helpful. The problem is internal, a bad connection at an internal lug caused the over heating. It seems I can fix this one with another piece of wire and cleaning the lugs then cranking them down. The unit still does it's job just has a little chatter to it, which it never had before. I think once it is repaired properly it should be no problem. Some buzzing is common at times so they say. We'll try and get a redo with pictures to post for you folk. You have all been very helpful. Thanks! By the way the new model Surge Guard #55550 has a new control board inside and is a little better unit than my current one (Model #34560). Also the new portable unit (Model #34951) is even much more advanced than either of these "hardwired" units. I may even consider going back to an external unit, as that's what my previous Montana always used. Thanks again! Great help! Great Site! God Bless!
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10-02-2019, 06:32 PM
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#22
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Montana Master
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Pensacola (mail forward service)
Posts: 3,198
M.O.C. #13740
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Only progressive has a lifetime warranty which should tell you what to buy.
__________________
2012 F350 6.7 L dually, 2013 3800RE with 6 pt leveling, Sumitomo 17.5" load range h tires, Samsung 18 cu ft residential fridge, 8k Morryde I.S. with disc brakes. Full timing since 2012.
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10-02-2019, 06:56 PM
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#23
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Montana Master
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Sebring
Posts: 3,669
M.O.C. #9969
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I think that since Surge Guard is now under new ownership, they are offering a Life Time Warranty, to keep pace with Progressive.
__________________
Michelle & Ann
2018 Chevy 3500HD High Country DRW 4X4 Crew Cab w/Duramax/Allison, Formally 2010 Montana 2955RL, Now Loaded 2016 SOB, Mor/ryde IS, Disc Brakes & Pin Box, Comfort Ride Hitch, Sailun 17.5 Tires.
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10-03-2019, 05:36 AM
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#24
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Alexandria
Posts: 352
M.O.C. #12394
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I would seriously question if keeping this in my camper was worth it. Not sure I would ever sleep well again knowing its past history. I think I would be looking at another surge protector for a $300 peace of mind, but that is just me. In the end though, you have to do what you feel is best for you.
__________________
______________________
2013 F350 SRW King Ranch
2011 3400RL
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10-06-2019, 03:32 PM
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#25
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New Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Mt. Shasta
Posts: 5
M.O.C. #4670
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This brings up a subject that is not talked about enough! The 50 amp cord that is used with 5th wheel RV's is designed for two 50 amp 110 volt legs which must be 180 degrees out of phase. If it is connected this way, the load on the white conductor will range between zero and 50 amps, and all will be well. If, however, the RV park or home owner provides two 110 volt legs which are in phase (instead of 180 degrees out of phase), the load on the white conductor will range between zero and 100 amps, which can burn up the white conductor! The easy way to check the park's wiring is to put a meter between the two 110 volt circuits (usually the red and black conductors). If the meter reads 220 volts (between 208 and 240 volts), all is well. If the meter reads zero, DO NOT USE the circuit. (It should also read 110 volts from the white conductor to the red, and from the white to the black.)
Dennis
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10-06-2019, 04:02 PM
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#26
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Seasoned Camper
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: vine grove
Posts: 80
M.O.C. #13517
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I would not have a ON BOARD Surge Guard because if the Surge Guard goes bad, well the RV would be down till I got one from somewhere and then I would have to hardwire it in the RV and who wants that hassle for days maybe. Same thing with the electric reel, gee whiz things are nice BUT they come with a price. I try to keep it simple but I also know the RV's now days come with some items that are mint to cost you money when it breaks. Non the less, it's there if you like the easy.
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10-06-2019, 06:12 PM
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#27
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Established Member
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Kirtland
Posts: 39
M.O.C. #22445
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Make sure the surge suppressor is mounted in the proper orientation (see instructions) or it will not last. The dropout relay inside works best and is quieter when the suppressor is mounted correctly.
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10-06-2019, 09:51 PM
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#28
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Montana Master
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Tacoma
Posts: 1,567
M.O.C. #20475
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Considering that the white wire is you neutral you still may have a problem in the pedestal like a broken ground or even a worn out receptacle. See it all the time in ours travels.
__________________
Bob & Carol Washington St
2017 HC HM352RL 2018 Dodge 3500 laramie CC LB 4x4
Curt Q25 with puck system, Factory air bags
Happy Trails
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10-07-2019, 10:09 AM
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#29
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Montana Master
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Bastrop
Posts: 2,892
M.O.C. #20753
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The wire being damaged is on the load side. The Surge guard is causing low voltage on your load. Even if you clean things up I would not trust it. I would replace it.
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Mocha, one-eyed toothless, hurricane survivor, Pirate dog
2019 20th Anniversary Edition 3701LK
B&W 20K for Ford OEM Puck
2018 Ford F-350 Lariat CCLB PSD DRW KJ5CQH
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