I had water dripping from the belly of our 3820FK, when I removed a couple of panels in the basement while searching for the source, I discovered about 2 inches of standing water on top of the coroplast. In our model the ant siphon valve is located in the kitchen under some drawers and that was the source of the leak, with a slow drip from the top of the valve. I’ve read that these valves are cheap and typical builders crap so I ordered and installed a Valterra valve and it’s doing the same thing. What am I missing or what would cause this.
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Larry and Linda Stetz
2018 3820FK
2019 F350 Lariet DRW 14000# GVWR 6.7 Turbo Diesel
It may not be the valve that is leaking. It could be the fitting on the end of the line that attaches to the valve. Normally a male fitting on both ends. Could have a manufacturing defect or could have hair line crack from over tightening. If you have enough slack the fittings are easy to replace.
The anti siphon valve should only leak, if it leaks, while you are running the black tank flush. It should be located at the highest place in that pipe run. And is only pressurized when flushing. When not flushing, it has an atmospheric vent to relieve any pressure in the line and drain the water into the tank. Is it a continuous drip even when not flushing?
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Bill & Patricia
Riley, our Golden
2007 3075RL (recently sold, currently without)
Thank you for the replies, I tend to learn by the school of hard knocks. I caused the valve to drip because of leaving the hose connected after flushing. The inline on/off valve on the hose was not shutting off completely after black tank flush, leaving a slight but constant water pressure in the hose. Lesson learned, disconnect hose. It’s Magic the leak is gone.
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Larry and Linda Stetz
2018 3820FK
2019 F350 Lariet DRW 14000# GVWR 6.7 Turbo Diesel
Many of us have removed that valve altogether and use an external valve instead. That way any issues are outside of the rig.
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Dick, Joyce, Diego, Picatso and Gustav
2017 3720 RL, and 2013 HC 343RL
Pullrite Hitch, IS, Disk Brakes, 3rd AC, Winegard Traveler, Bathroom door mod, Dometic 320, couch for desk swap, replaced chairs, sun screens, added awnings, etc.
I had water dripping from the belly of our 3820FK, when I removed a couple of panels in the basement while searching for the source, I discovered about 2 inches of standing water on top of the coroplast. In our model the ant siphon valve is located in the kitchen under some drawers and that was the source of the leak, with a slow drip from the top of the valve. I’ve read that these valves are cheap and typical builders crap so I ordered and installed a Valterra valve and it’s doing the same thing. What am I missing or what would cause this.
had the same leak problem. I used a "white" PVC thread sealer. put on very little it doesn't take much to seal PVC threads. And don't over tighten.
Did the same as DQDICK! Then you will never have a problem aging.
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Bob & Carol Washington St
2017 HC HM352RL 2018 Dodge 3500 laramie CC LB 4x4
Curt Q25 with puck system, Factory air bags
Happy Trails
My anti siphon valve was in the wall behind shower, removed it along with the pex water lines(15 ft). Connected the line direct to the flusher. Bought and installed a backflow preventer valve on the flushing connection. Cost $5-10.
I had the same problem in our new 2010 Montana about the 2nd time we used it. I have a 6 foot hose connected to my backflush inlet connection in the convenience center. Outside I connect a wye to that hose and then connect a longer hose that runs to the pedistal faucet. When done flushing, I shut off the wye, then open the unused part of the wye to let the water drain out of the 6 foot hose. It quickly releases the inline pressure pushing against the anti-siphon valve. If you don't release the pressure, the pressure will slowly subside releasing the spring in the anti-siphon valve and will release water into the area where the valve is located. There was nothing wrong with your initial valve. Mine was releasing water on the floor in the bathroom vanity which followed the pipes into our garage. i've been doing this for 10 years and not a drip since. The anti-siphon valve is there for a purpose - to prevent contamination of the fresh water supply.
Remove the BS government required valve and plumb the 2 lines together in the basement before you ruin your camper !!!!!! IMHO they are not needed AT ALL and are a ticking time bomb waiting to go off at any time. You more that likely already have some wet wood from the waters path unto the coroplast.
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2018 Chevy 3500 LTZ Dually Diesel 4x4 CCLB
2011 Montana 3455 SA. 6 point level up. Disc brakes. Curt Q24 Hitch. 5 step glow steps
Progressive EMS. Valterra tank valves. Sailun G637 tires. ARP fridge control. All led lighting. Mor Ryde IS
I don't know Y you guys don't just do like most of us have all ready done and just eliminate the dam thing so you don't have the problem any more! How meany times are you going to replace it? with the same peace of junk.
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Bob & Carol Washington St
2017 HC HM352RL 2018 Dodge 3500 laramie CC LB 4x4
Curt Q25 with puck system, Factory air bags
Happy Trails
I found a couple 1/2" sprinkler fittings at Home Depot, screwed them together and installed them. Total cost was a couple bucks vs about $30 to replace in kind. No more occasional odor and no chance of a leak,
If these are needed for a 'vacuum' breaker, then why the roof mounted vent. I can't see any chance of any tank vacuum if that roof vent is clear. I don't recall our last 5er, a Canadian built Titanium or the two TTs preceding it or even the old Newmar Kountry Aire having one of these gadgets - and ya gotta believe I worked on every piece of plumbing at one time or another on them
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Dave W
2014 Montana High Country 343RL (Sold!)
2011 Ford 6.7 Lariat CCLB (Went to PU Heaven)
2019 F150SC XLT SE Sport,w/full tow package