Fifth wheel hitches?

[Montana_2591]

Ok, I'm very new to this! We bought our trailer a couple of weeks ago, we did the walk-through last week, and I just bought the truck.
F-350 Crew cab, 7.30 Diesel long bed. Now I need to buy a hitch.
Our pride and joy is a 318BHS. I could do with a few suggestions about what to buy, and how much should it cost? I'm in Phoenix,Az who should I buy from?

Thanks in advance,

Michael

[Dave e Victoria]

Michael,
For the long bed you most likely do not need any kind of slider (ie one that slides back to avoid trailer interference with the cab in tight turns). Always buy a hitch that tilts side to side as well as fore and aft. Beyond that, your choice is how the hitch mounts to the bed. The cheaper version has rails that run across the bed and remain there when the hitch is removed. More expensve versions have mounting below the bed and leave the bed flat when the hitch is removed. You may also want to look at the way the pin locking works. Again, it is a matter of choices.

My suggestion is to visit Camping world, Quality bumper and one or more of the hitch installers including U-Haul. Ask questions, listen to the pitches. Then, before you buy, ask about experience with the one you are zeroing in on.

One other point. Like everything else these days, there are very few manufacturers of hitches but they are distributed under a lot of brand names. Find out who the manufacturer is when comparing prices.

Also, I am in North Phoenix about 43rd and Bell. Drop me an e-mail if you want to get together and talk more specifically.

[stiles watson]

I think you probably have found your best local resource for this venture. Happy RVing.

[sreigle]

I agree with Stiles and want to add that Dave e Victoria has given you some excellent advice. Maybe one thing to add is maybe anyone with a hitch they would NOT recommend will jump in and say so.

Just be sure to get a hitch with a weight rating sufficient both for your current rig and whatever you might buy in the future.

[DHenry]

I have a Reece 16K. It works great for me. Cost about $700.00 installed by my Montana dealer.

[Montana_2591]

Thanks, I'm going to look today.

Michael

[lightningjack11]

Good luck Michael.

[Bob Pasternak]

Michael: We have a 16K Reece for our LB Dodge pulling a 2955RL and it works fine. I don't agree with Dave on the side to side motion. I feel I have more stability not having the lateral pitch, but to each his own.:D Also I don't know of any 5th wheels that bolt only to the bed. Most need to have the frame of the truck drilled and brackets put under it to support the weight. And when I take my 5th wheel out, the rails are still on the floor.

[Thunderman]

Michael,
I have the RBW (I think) which does not have the lateral movement. This is a minor problem when the tow vehicle is not level with the fifth wheel. In the event this occurs it is necessary to put a block or board under the rear tire of the tow vehicle to hitch up with ease. This is a rare occurrence. I have used the hitch about ten years so I must be happy with it. It does have the runners bolted to the frame and they stay in the tow vehicle when the hitch is removed.
I think these hitches are less expensive compared to some others.
Good luck!

[Dave e Victoria]

Bob, You are right, the hitch rails are attached to the frame. I did not mean to imply they atytached to the bed alone. Also, it is important to note this as not a handyman project as many of the new truck frames are made of composites instead of plain old steel and are very sensitive to were holes are drilled or clamps attached. Better to have it professionally installed.

I am really curious about the stability comment From an engineering standpoint, that is the last place I would add stiffness. Tobe sure, one would not want any lateral movement, but thre is none. The movement is only allowed axially around the roll axis and not much at that. On the other hand, I frequently get into places where I would not want the hassle or extra worry. of trying to align the hitch to the trailer in this axis. My hitch even accomodates those situations where I have to hook up on a slope without the truck straight on to the trailer. I guess this is more of a personal choice than I thought.

Also, as a matter of record, my hitch was ordered thru the local Montana dealer(RV Traders in Mesa AZ). It was installed by U-Haul. It is a two axis device and includes a slider. It cost less than $400.00 installed. I forgot to ask for the teflon pad so that cost an extra ten bucks. Oh well, I my old age i can't remember everything.Javascript:insertsmilie(':D')

[Bob Pasternak]

Dave: My thoughts on the stability aspect is not having side to side rolling. My truck has a tow/camper package on it and that gives it heavy duty shocks and sway bars front and rear. Without the side to side movement on the hitch, trucks passing, cross winds or diagonal winds will not cause the trailer roll. In all the years I spent over the road, I've never driven a tractor with a side to side 5th wheel. Not only am I more comfortable with it in the wind, some of the mountain roads I've been on with their switch-backs I feel better. As I said, personal preference prevails.[8D]

[trukdoc]

If you have a short bed absolutely do not settle for less than a sliding hitch.
True big trucks do not have side pivots. But there is a huge weight difference that pushes down on the fifthwheel plate and have positive lock air brakes to hold the trailer still while backing under it.
This is in great contrast to hooking up a 5er.
I have a sliding Reese 16K that side pivots and am very pleased with it. No noticeable towing unstability. And my TV is a SRW.
Rick

[Dave e Victoria]

Bob,
You are right, this seems to be a personal thing. Having said that, my instincts tell me to let the larger inertia element ( the trailer) roll a bit without dragging the smaller inertia element (the truck) with it. In this case the smaller inertial element is supposed to be the control element and I would not like to upset it.

On the other hand, Like you, I don't know of an eighteen wheeler rig with a side to side rotating Hitch mechanism. However, being the cynical sort, I believe this has more to do with econmics than safety or convenience. Rarely will any one of these be required to hook up under adverse requirements -- the main reason for providing this movement. And it takes a really odd situation when the need for seperation of roll movement becomes critical. Bottom line-- if the inconvenience of having to prop up the side of your truck to hook up never bothers you, go with a single axis hitch. The choice is avaiable I hope that made sense....

[Montana_2591]

Thanks guys! I bought a Valley 16k hitch and had it installed today. I am picking up my trailer at RV Traders tomorrow. Yahoo!!!
I'm really greatful for this resource. You guys are invaluable.

Michael and Amy

[sreigle]

When we towed smaller FW's with a 1/2 ton truck I noticed the tail wagging the dog on roads with side to side uneveness as compared to the prior hitch that did not have the 4way pivot. But with our 1 ton trucks I did not experience any instability at all even on those same roads with a much heavier FW. I expect this F250 to be just as good, especially since it has higher GVWR, GCWR and tow ratings than our '99 and '03 F350's had. So I suspect the potential for instability lies more with the tow vehicle. Just a guess but based on real world observations.

[jerryb]

Some semi tractors do use "occilateing 5th wheels" for tank trailers as they are too stiff to flex, van and flatbeds flex enough that it's not needed. I don't want my Montana to flex, read the posts on king pin welds. I noticed my Reece 5th has some wear on the front of the locking bar, also the kingpin has a grove wore in it, maybe 10,000 miles at most. I filed off the rough edges on both and it was pretty soft steel.

[sreigle]

That reminds me. Ours is due for a little grease before we hitch up again.

[Montana_2694]

I'm very pleased with my Husky hitch.

[ols1932]

After traveling for 3 years using a Drawtite, which is very similar to a Reese, I opted to spend the money to purchase a Trailer Saver hitch. I fits into the same rails as the previous hitch and utilizes two air bags and shock absorbers. It removes all the "shock" that you experience with the pounding of the king pin on the hitch when you are traveling rough roads. It also dampens any front to back pounding you experience with the Drawtite and/or Reese. However, the Drawtite and Reese are great hitches. It's just a matter of choice (and money).

[Montana_2194]

[quote]Originally posted by mtjtb04

Ok, I'm very new to this! We bought our trailer a couple of weeks ago, we did the walk-through last week, and I just bought the truck.
F-350 Crew cab, 7.30 Diesel long bed. Now I need to buy a hitch.


Michael,

We're born at the hip! I bought a 3255 and a Crew Cab 7.3 PSD. We haven't even towed it yet. My concerns were as yours. After a huge amount of fussing, I got a Husky hitch, (more or less equivalent to a Reese) and I have ordered an "Air Ride " hitch from Oklahoma (for lotsa bucks). They are adaptable to Reese or Husky, and greatly reduce frame shock to the trailer.

Anecdotal and engineering opinions indicate that the cost of this addition are more than saved by the reduced wear and tear on the truck and unit.

Jhadley

[Montana_2591]

We towed the trailer on Friday. The truck pulled like a dream and the hitch was silent. So far everything works great.

Michael

[Dave e Victoria]

Congratulations Michael. You're going to love it. Good luck in this new chapter to your life.

[sreigle]

My personal opinion is both the Husky and the Reese are fine hitches, as are several other brands. To me, once you decide whether you want 4-way pivot or 2-way, then the rest depends on who cuts you the best deal. Just my nickel. I've had Reese and RBW and a Lil Rocker (forgot who makes those) and was happy with all of them.

[Montana_2591]

Thanks Dave

[Random Line]

[quote]Originally posted by trukdoc

If you have a short bed absolutely do not settle for less than a sliding hitch.
True big trucks do not have side pivots. But there is a huge weight difference that pushes down on the fifthwheel plate and have positive lock air brakes to hold the trailer still while backing under it.
This is in great contrast to hooking up a 5er.
I have a sliding Reese 16K that side pivots and am very pleased with it. No noticeable towing unstability. And my TV is a SRW.
Rick
---------------------------------
Rick,

We have about the same rig hookup that you do.
We have a tough time getting the Reese 16k slider to extend or compress with the thing hooked up to the trailer. Seems like it is hard to get it unlocked to extend or retract. If we were to do this again we would get some other brand of sliding hitch.

[sreigle]

Jim, I used to have that same problem. Really struggled with it. A good friend sprayed it heavily with camco dri-lube slide lubricant, putting it heavily on the rails and down into the rails inside the slider. Now it works very easily, very smoothly. I was doubtful it would help but it made a huge difference. No longer do we get a hard bang when it finally breaks loose and slides against the stop.

[Random Line]

[quote]Originally posted by sreigle

Jim, I used to have that same problem. Really struggled with it. A good friend sprayed it heavily with camco dri-lube slide lubricant, putting it heavily on the rails and down into the rails inside the slider. Now it works very easily, very smoothly. I was doubtful it would help but it made a huge difference. No longer do we get a hard bang when it finally breaks loose and slides against the stop.
--------------------
Steve.

Will try to get it siliconed thoroughly before we get back on the road.
Also plan to try to look inside at that rail extension lock system.
Would really like to have this thing working easy.

[sreigle]

Jim, silicone lube didn't help for me. The only thing that helped was the slide dri-lube. If you don't have any of that you might try maybe a dry-drying graphite type lube or something similar. Maybe the silicone will work for you but it didn't. I also tried white grease, wheel bearing grease, and standard auto grease but none of them worked very well at all until using the dri-lube spray. That stuff's not cheap at around ten bucks per can but it sure did work for me.

[mhstevens]

Don't want to start anything, but I'd like some info from people that have used the air-ride type hitches. I've towed for about 10 years using an RBW Li'l Rocker with the straight bar and tilt head. So far, so good (except for that time I dropped the trailer on the truck bed in Myrtle Beach).

I'm looking at going to one of the air-bag hitches. Any preferences? Anything learned? At around $2000-$2500, I'd like to actually get some feedback before dropping that much. Getting a little tired of the "clunk" from the RBW, but I'm curious about "roll" of the airbags as you travel. Usually I have the RBW locked level and only unlock it to hitch up, seems to be less affected by the wind while you're heading down the highway.

Thanks--

[Bill and Ann]

I have a Reese 20K on a short bed and do not have any problems doing a 90 deg. when backing up. I also have a hitch tray and box behind the truck and don't have any problems. Personally I don't know why a sliding hitch is needed.