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Old 05-26-2016, 03:39 PM   #1
phillyg
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Residential Fridge Report

Many folks are asking about residential fridges so here's my report FWIW. Samsung 18cf came installed and with only one battery. Dealership added one at my insistence. They're typical hybrid Interstate "RV/Marine" batteries so nothing special.

Arrived home last night at 6pm and did not hook up to 120v power. Put out the slides and used the 6-point leveling and left fridge running off the converter overnight. Was still running fine at 11pm today. Unloaded and pulled in the slides okay, BUT I didn't have enough volts left to retract the levelers.

Regardless, I am satisfied the fridge ran for 17 hours on admittedly inexpensive batteries. Four 6v batteries would be much better. Also, no inside problems as we made sure the fridge stuff was well packed and no glass jars were allowed to roll around. We don't think fridge bars will be necessary.
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Old 05-26-2016, 04:07 PM   #2
phillyg
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Oops, I meant "interter," not converter.
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Old 05-26-2016, 04:09 PM   #3
phillyg
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by phillyg

Many folks are asking about residential fridges so here's my report FWIW. Samsung 18cf came installed and with only one battery. Dealership added one at my insistence. They're typical hybrid Interstate "RV/Marine" batteries so nothing special.

Arrived home last night at 6pm and did not hook up to 120v power. Put out the slides and used the 6-point leveling and left fridge running off the inverter overnight. Was still running fine at 11pm today. Unloaded and pulled in the slides okay, BUT I didn't have enough volts left to retract the levelers.

Regardless, I am satisfied the fridge ran for 17 hours on admittedly inexpensive batteries. Four 6v batteries would be much better. Also, no inside problems as we made sure the fridge stuff was well packed and no glass jars were allowed to roll around. We don't think fridge bars will be necessary.
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Old 05-26-2016, 05:38 PM   #4
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Good to know, thanks!
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Old 05-27-2016, 05:10 AM   #5
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I think my biggest concern was that of the shelves in the fridge and how well they travel. So it sounds like a non issue on that. Thanks. John
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Old 05-27-2016, 05:19 AM   #6
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Be sure to screw in the lock, or the doors will open and things will fall out....don't ask. JT
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Old 05-27-2016, 05:38 AM   #7
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quote:Originally posted by jcurtis934

I think my biggest concern was that of the shelves in the fridge and how well they travel. So it sounds like a non issue on that. Thanks. John
It also might be because our trip home was on smooth roads LOL. On the way down all the hanging clothes jumped off the rear closet bar, probably at a railroad crossing.
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Old 05-28-2016, 07:36 AM   #8
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We put comand srips inside the refig under the shelf as a 2nd precaution to help keep the shelves from moving. White and can not see them. Makes me feel better. Not sure if necessary.
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Old 06-18-2016, 02:06 AM   #9
ReneT
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by phillyg

Oops, I meant "interter," not converter.
What's a interter?
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Old 06-18-2016, 04:56 AM   #10
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On our SOB we have a Whirlpool residential unit. Concerned about glass sliding around on the glass shelves we picked up some of the silicon baking sheets at Costco and lined the shelves with them. Now stuff does not slide. Not even my beer (most important). LOL.
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Old 06-18-2016, 06:12 AM   #11
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F.Y.I. phillyg - to correct a typo in your posting, you do not have to create a new post. If you look at your posting, you will see it has an extra icon along the top bar. This only appears when you are the author of the post. It will be the third one in from the left and look like a piece of paper and a pen. This is the "Edit" icon and when you click on it you will be back in Edit mode where you can correct any oopsie, typo, misstatement or whatever. It is a very handy feature for those of us who don't always spellcheck everything.
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Old 06-18-2016, 07:58 PM   #12
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Give phillyg a break, LOL... he meant inverter (not interter)... He was referring "inverting" 12 volts to 110v, not to be confused with converting 110 v to 12v which is how he ran his fridge. One typo was a misspelling the other typo was misuse of a word.

phillyg... please understand, there are many members who like to call out mistakes, heck I've done it. It's mostly constructive criticism, and I for one have tried to back off.

Referring to using a residential fridge, I would expect it would be hard on a 12 v battery system which is why RV refrigerators which used an "absorption" technology is better than a higher voltage demanding residential fridge. It's why residential refrigerators cool better (they use more power). On that note, I wonder if using 6v batteries versus 12v would improve things.
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Old 06-19-2016, 02:37 AM   #13
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Art-n-Marge, I'm not offended in the least. When I was young and foolish I was rather thin-skinned when called out on something because I knew I couldn't possibly be wrong. I know better now as I discover my own misteaks (oops, I did it again).
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Old 06-19-2016, 05:41 AM   #14
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Does it have an ice maker? I saw one with ice maker yesterday at CW.
I asked about how to winterize one but no one including service dept. knew.
Any ideas?
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Old 06-19-2016, 12:59 PM   #15
phillyg
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by bubbagulf

Does it have an ice maker? I saw one with ice maker yesterday at CW.
I asked about how to winterize one but no one including service dept. knew.
Any ideas?
It does, but I haven't had time to figure out why it's not working.
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Old 06-20-2016, 04:41 AM   #16
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Art, these new breed of Residential Fridges are very energy efficient. Our 20 cuft Whirlpool with Magnum Inverter draws 11 amps when running, but runs so little I seldom see the current draw on the inverter remote when we make pit stops. And with 4 Deep Cycle 12 volt batteries we can go two or three days.
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Old 06-22-2016, 10:11 AM   #17
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[/quote]

It does, but I haven't had time to figure out why it's not working.
[/quote]

I believe the ice makers aren't connected during build. You have to have the water line connected.
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Old 06-24-2016, 02:56 AM   #18
ReneT
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by Art-n-Marge

Give phillyg a break, LOL... he meant inverter (not interter)... He was referring "inverting" 12 volts to 110v, not to be confused with converting 110 v to 12v which is how he ran his fridge. One typo was a misspelling the other typo was misuse of a word.

phillyg... please understand, there are many members who like to call out mistakes, heck I've done it. It's mostly constructive criticism, and I for one have tried to back off.

Referring to using a residential fridge, I would expect it would be hard on a 12 v battery system which is why RV refrigerators which used an "absorption" technology is better than a higher voltage demanding residential fridge. It's why residential refrigerators cool better (they use more power). On that note, I wonder if using 6v batteries versus 12v would improve things.
It was only a joke. Can't you see the laughing smiley face? I guess you can't joke on the forum like you can in others.
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Old 06-25-2016, 06:01 PM   #19
phillyg
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by bubbagulf

Does it have an ice maker? I saw one with ice maker yesterday at CW.
I asked about how to winterize one but no one including service dept. knew.
Any ideas?
There's probably a low-point drain under the slideout where the fridge is located. I'll let you know tomorrow.
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Old 06-25-2016, 06:03 PM   #20
phillyg
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by Virginia Young

It does, but I haven't had time to figure out why it's not working.
[/quote]

I believe the ice makers aren't connected during build. You have to have the water line connected.
[/quote]

The icemaker was indeed connected. The obvious shut-off valve is located under the kitchen sink. The hidden valve is behind the drawers to the left of the stove. I'm now making ice.
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