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Old 10-26-2009, 07:37 AM   #1
Exnavydiver
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New Wet bolt Instructons

Dave Clark and I just finished installing his wet bolts. We did as the Dexter guy told us and it took one third the time it did for H. Jon and I to do either of ours. We jacked his 3400 behind the rear wheels with new 12 ton jack. We built a platform for the jacks out of the lego blocks, between the two of us we had 5 bags of them (50). This worked very well. we used two safety stands as they were only 6 ton stands. After we got the wheels off we lowered the rig back to level as it was before we starting jacking, thus taking the tilt and strain of the opposite side of the rig and suspension. This also made access easier to all the springs. We put a small jack under the axle and lifted only the weight of the axle (on the U-bolt) to relieve the spring stress on hanger bolts and Moryde. We then blocked under the Moryde and used a 6 ton jack to lift one side of the Moryde at a time directly under the Z-brackets. This was hugely successful, and resulted in easy removal of the old shackles. After the shackles were off we used the axle jack to lift the axle up enough to remove the spring hanger bolts. These required a bit of heavy beating because of the knurled collar next to the bolt head being pressed into the hanger. We put nut back on that bolt about 4 or 5 threads to so the beating (3 lb maul) would not destroy the threads in case we needed it later(we didn't). Once these were loose from the hanger they just slid right out with a little jack adjustment. As Dexter told us we installed the new bushings in the hanger ends of the springs first. This involved lowering the axle so the spring end dropped just below the hanger. We cleaned out of the old nylon bushing and oiled the inside of the spring where the bushing went. We used one of the old bolts that had the knurled shoulder worn off (and there are usually a few of them. We put the bolt through one of the old shackle plate holes (make sure it is not a worn shackle plate) and then through a bushing. We tapped the new bushing through the spring end eye until the plate hit the spring. We then removed the bolt and checked the bushing clearance with one of the new wet bolts. We did purchase a 9/16 inch ream just in case and only needed it twice. We then lifted the axle spring assembly back up to align with the hole in the spring hanger and installed the bolt and nut. We had to "Reef" down on the nut pretty hard and never did get the new knurled bolt shoulder all the way through the spring hanger. However the nut was tight against the shoulder on the nut end of the bolt. Dave will keep an eye on those to avoid a similar problem as H. John Kohl had with his.
Once the spring hangers were complete we went to the Moryde units. We Removed the old Z-bracket bolts and saved them since Dexter MorRyde neglected new bolts with the new Z-brackets. The easiest method of removing these bolts is to use an impact wrench on the bottom bolt first then jack the opposite of the MorRyde until the upper bolt came into range of the impact socket. We installed the new Z-bracket in reverse order. Lastly we installed the new shackles. To do this we placed a jack under the side of the Moryde that we wanted to align and jacked it up till the shackle bolts just slide in. There was no pounding and this took no time at all. We spun on the nuts and everything aligned easily. We then jacked the rig back up so we could re-install the tires and finished the entire job. Elapsed time per side was 2 hours. Link to Slide show I hope this helps those that need help. Here is an additional Link to the entire album with better descriptions. P.S. NCFischer if you haven't done yours yet let me know we will be there in about 4 or 5 days, and Jaybird keep an eye out for us also... Dave and Betsy
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Old 10-26-2009, 08:23 AM   #2
NCFischers
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Dave,
I did them on Saturday. It was a bit more difficult than your description but with wedges and jacks, they went in fairly easily. I was able to break the old bolts out with a 6 inch C clamp and liquid wrench. I had to cut one bolt off as we couldn't break the nut free. I love sawzall's. My elapsed time was about 6 hours.
If you are heading near us, let us know. We're closer to the coast than Jay Bird. I assume that you'll be traveling on 95. We're off Hwy 17.
Jim
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Old 10-26-2009, 09:30 AM   #3
nailbender
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Thanks for the installation update. Procrastination on my part finally paid off, I got the kit at the Spring Rally
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Old 10-26-2009, 01:57 PM   #4
blarkman
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I stuck my bushings in freezer for about 10 min and just slid them in eyes, didn't have to ream them or anything
bob
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Old 10-26-2009, 02:09 PM   #5
Jay Bird
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Dave,
Just let us know when you are coming. Rosetta and I will be here until 10 Nov.
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Old 10-26-2009, 06:59 PM   #6
KTManiac
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Hi Dave & Betsy!

Did Dave C. remember to give a wide berth to the bedroom slide while fetching tools for this job? ....or did you make him wear a helmet?!



We finally made it back home to Oregon today. As soon as we get some decent weather, I will be doing the self adjust brakes, HD shackle kit, and JT stabilizers.

I watched one of the Dexter techs install the brakes and shackle kit on a rig at the Rally. He was very friendly and talkative. So, while he was working, we chatted, and I picked up a lot of pointers. He made it look very easy, so I will soon see if I am a good student ....or not!

Your description is pretty much the way he did it, except he didn't use an old shackle and bolt to drive in the bushing. He just used an old bolt. I like your idea of using the shackle, it makes for a nice handle so as not to hit your thumb with the hammer.





Oh yeah ....thanks for the water filter stand. It was very handy to use on the rest of our trip. No more balancing the filter housing against the stabilizer. Yippee!!!!

Scooter & Sandy said to say "Hey!" to Beau for them.
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Old 10-27-2009, 12:48 AM   #7
NCFischers
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None of my new bolts would seat all the way even when pounding on them. The nuts did bottom out on the bolts though. I put them in from the inside so the hanger had a clean hole with no knurl marks on it. I did see the hanger brackets bow in slightly when tightening the nuts. After I pull the trailer a bit, I'll check the bolts again to see if they set. By keeping the grease holes at 3 or 9 o'clock, I was able to get grease in all the bolts. I did pre-grease the bolts to make sure there were no burrs or obstructions in them before I installed them.
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Old 10-27-2009, 02:16 AM   #8
Exnavydiver
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Jim, that is pretty much what we found also. We put the bolts in from the inside and that bracket had not gotten a knurled bolt previously so it was basically "cutting" new grooves for the new knurls. When John and I did our rigs last March I could have sworn that the new nuts were flanged friction nuts. they would screw on easily for about 4 threads then you had to use a wrench, like the Z-bracket bolts. That didn't seem to be the case this time... Dave
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Old 10-27-2009, 05:53 AM   #9
NCFischers
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Dave,
Mine were all friction nuts. About 3 threads were easy and then we needed the wrenches. I'm guessing that the knurls seated themselves about 1/2 way. Since I bottomed out the nuts, if the brackets spread at all, the knurls will have to seat themselves deeper. I'll check after we make our next trip.
Jim
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Old 10-27-2009, 06:21 AM   #10
Tom S.
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Ours were friction nuts too, or least they were supposed to be. Besides being shorted, some of ours lacked any 'friction'. I'm going to pull all ours off and Loctite them. I'm thinking about doing the same to the U-bolts on the axles.
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Old 11-01-2009, 06:20 AM   #11
KathyandDave
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Dave whacked his noggin on the teeth of the slide extender bar a couple of times. I wore a hat. Somebody else suggested in a post that a towel can be wrapped around the extender bar.
If somebody came up with a method to press the knurls (splines?) into the hangers front and rear, that would be good. Simply tightening the nut down doesn't pull the bolts through. As somebody else noted, it just pulls the hanger ends together. As Dave says, I'll continue to check the tightness of the hanger bolts.
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Old 11-01-2009, 08:26 AM   #12
Tom S.
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by NCFischers

None of my new bolts would seat all the way even when pounding on them. The nuts did bottom out on the bolts though. I put them in from the inside so the hanger had a clean hole with no knurl marks on it. I did see the hanger brackets bow in slightly when tightening the nuts. After I pull the trailer a bit, I'll check the bolts again to see if they set. By keeping the grease holes at 3 or 9 o'clock, I was able to get grease in all the bolts. I did pre-grease the bolts to make sure there were no burrs or obstructions in them before I installed them.
OK, since you seem like a nice guy, I'll tell you how to get them to seat all the way...

These are shoulder bolts, which as you have discovered keep the nut from going far enough to draw the bolt serrations all the way in. There are a couple of ways to overcome this.

Get a washer or two that are big enough to slide over the body of the bolt and either use one of the old nuts, or buy a regular 7/16 fine nut, so you don't wear out the friction nuts. Remove the friction nut, put the washer(s) on and use the old nut to tighten and draw the bolt in tight. Then replace the friction nut. I would recommend using blue Loctite - but be forewarned, the stuff isn't cheap!

Another way would be to use a large "C" clamp and a socket large enough to fit over the already installed friction nut. You need a heavy duty "C" clamp though. One with a hex head is ideal if you have an air impact wrench. After drawing the bolt in, don't forget to retorque the nut!
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