Whole Coach Water Filter

[Rondo]

Scott, are your filters installed behind the convenient center or where? They look like they are behind the wall of the convenient center and if so how do you plan on changing the filters out when they need changing? Curious minds need to know! LOL

 

[scottz]

Scott, are your filters installed behind the convenient center or where? They look like they are behind the wall of the convenient center and if so how do you plan on changing the filters out when they need changing? Curious minds need to know! LOL

Yes, the filters are on the back side of the convenience center behind the cover (wall) along with the pump, expansion tank and all the other plumbing. It is a simple matter to take the cover out in my coach so I can change filters or access the winterizing bypass valves; four screws and it's out. I have modified it with wing nuts so I can do it without any tools. I've had that cover out so many times, I can do it blindfolded.

 

[2019 montana]

Nice job, PEX makes it easy.

 

[richfaa]

We have pretty much the same systems pictured above purchased from the water filter gut at the Fall rally years ago.The filters can be purchased at Home depot/Lowes, etc. We go to the fall rally every year and purchase replacements from the water filter guy,We did not do a fancy inside the RV. We mount the filters in a basket outside the RV. We have a water tester and have never tested bad water but the taste and smell is different in different parts of the country and we use the system to filter that out.

 

[Chasnracin]

For those of you NOT full time yet, how many times do you use your filters (read camping trips) if you camp 1-2 times a month, or less during unfortunate times?

 

[Dave W-FRF]

For those of you NOT full time yet, how many times do you use your filters (read camping trips) if you camp 1-2 times a month, or less during unfortunate times?

2 to 4 days each week at our summer seasonal plus a 5-7 weeks for trips. A 20 buck pair of whole house filter elements last from May through Octt/Nov, depending on the weather

 

[JeffB-FRF]

I find it interesting folks have filters but no water softeners.

 

[Dave W-FRF]

I find it interesting folks have filters but no water softeners.

Why would we want one more maintenance item?

 

[mtlakejim]

I have thought of adding this mod. It also looks like you added a hinged door to the panel for access?


How can you tell when filters are plugging though (besides low flow of course)? In the oilfield we would use differential pressure between upstream and downstream but we usually operate at higher pressures with a consistent flow

 

[scottz]

I don't know; I've never had a plugged filter. I just change them out periodically.

 

[Rondo]

Thanks Scott, see you in Coos Bay and I'll check out your set up there.

Jeffba-- I have my whole house filter and water softener all connected together just inside the basement next to the convenient center.


Dave W-- Very little maintenance to the softener. I run water softener salt through our unit about once every 6 weeks or so and it takes less than an hour to do ----Shut city water off, remove canister from whole house filter, put in refreshner tube in place of the filter element, fill canister with salt, reconnect cannister to filter housing, turn water back on, open galley tank valve, go inside and turn on kitchen faucet to a pencil trickle, sit down and have a beer or two, watch salt disappear from canister through the softener, when salt is gone, turn off faucet and water connection, remove cannister and tube, replace filter, reconnect cannister to housing, turn on city water again and go inside and pour glass of fresh clear soft water again and enjoy.

 

[JeffB-FRF]

Why would we want one more maintenance item?

Calcium build up in the water heater can cause the water to develop a rotten egg smell. It is a bit of work to clean it out.

 

[Dave W-FRF]

Rondo & Jeff - thanks for your answers which were good.



I will say this though - I've had an RV of some sort since my mid 20s, 1970 and a 5th wheel since 1974 amd have yet to have a water problem that can't be handled by, at a minimum, a very common CAMCO blue in line filter while traveling or a single or double cannister system as we are now using. We did live in an area with extremely high calcium and, worse iron and sulfur, but that water was never allowed in the 5er we had at the time and we had the biggest softener we could buy for that home. We do not like the taste of softened water nor do I need the tiny bit of carry over salt. As far as calcium buildup in the HW heater - I would see evidence of that on the kiychen and bathroom faucets - and after four plus camping seasons on this 5er, nary a sign of mineral buildup. Perhaps if we were full timers, and were using an in-unit washer/dryer would see a need. Using the RV only 70-90 days a year - not on our needs list even when treated Lake Champlain water tastes and smells like dreck pre filtration.

 

[mtlakejim]

Calcium build up in the water heater can cause the water to develop a rotten egg smell. It is a bit of work to clean it out.

Actually Calcium Carbonate (CaCO3) is not the source of "rotten egg" smell. CaCO3 deposition is more likely with temperature rise (contrary to most other mineral scales) so that is the reason you so often see it in hot water tanks. Pure CaCO3 will have a white appearance and look somewhat like concrete. It is acid soluble and brittle.

The "rotten egg" smell is Hydrogen Sulfide gas. That is the result of microbiological activity. Specifically Sulfate Reducing Bacteria. Or it can be the result of Pyrite dissolution in the producing formation (very unlikely in a fresh water source). In the case of your hot water heater, you are giving the SRB bacteria a stagnant warm location that is ideal for their reproduction. If the water is stagnant for extended time frames, even better for them. H2S in the water can lead to the formation of black sludge or scale in the presence of Iron (either in the water or from plumbing) composed of Iron Sulfide. That scale is also acid soluble and brittle. Best treatment in that case is to kill the bacteria with chlorine and thoroughly flush the system. It should be specifically noted that if you have H2S in your FRESH WATER system it has been contaminated with bad water!! Fresh water systems should have been treated such that there isn't a sufficient level of bacteria to reproduce (unless they are left stagnant for a very long time, even then they need a source of contamination to start the process)! Contamination with Oxygen is not an issue as SRB strains of bacteria are Anaerobic (IE: they do not require Oxygen to live).

You may see a combination of both types of scales in your tanks. If you can't flush it out with water and or lightly tapping on the walls of the metal tank itself then as a last resort you can try softening it with Hydrochloric Acid (Muratic Acid at the hardware store) but that risks degrading the tank integrity as the acid is also corrosive to metal tanks.

I don't have the issue but did make flushing nozzles out of 3/8" SST tubing which I bent such that the pressure wash is directed back toward front of tank on one of the pieces of tubing. On a second piece it is straight such that I can flush the back of tank. Wisdom would suggest that any tool you stick into the water system should first be treated for bacteria by dipping in solution of chlorine and the system should be very thoroughly flushed afterwards.

It should be noted that a filter is unlikely to stop either form of scale and in fact if left static a filter bowl is another prime location for bacteria to grow. The micron size filter that can capture bacteria would restrict flow severely. The components of a mineral scale (in this case, Ca and Bicarb) will pass right thru a filter if they are still soluble and do not form the scale until they see a pressure drop or temperature increase. A water softener may stop CaCO3 precipitation downstream (via Ion Exchange) but does nothing for bacterial activity and again could be a location for bacterial bloom if left stagnant for an extended timeframe if the source water is contaminated.

Sorry guys this is what I do in the oilfield........