Truck decision help

Just remember to get out and lock your front hubs and your rear axle with the knob on the dash, or you aren’t going anywhere if the ground is a little slick.
My ram is auto 4x4. turn the knob...no need to get out to lock the hubs..
 
About the being overweight. Adding air bags does nothing for your capacities, it just effects your ride height and ride. As a former truck driver, I will tell you what will happen if you ever have an accident. If there is some question about fault, a good lawyer is going to try and prove your truck couldn't handle the weight. They will do everything they can to prove your drives were over loaded or you exceeded the specs of the truck. If you are a 100 pounds over, and they can compute that, there goes everything. I make sure my truck and trailer scale properly every year, even same truck and trailer. You don't want your life ruined by a lawsuit. As for the 4x4 or 4x2, I take that more as a personal choice. We have 4x4 but I see plenty of 4x2s. Good luck.
 
How's this one look then?
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How's this one look then?
View attachment 1108765
Yes, the only way to make this decision is using the numbers. But it’s important to use the right numbers.

The sticker inside the driver’s door provides the only number that matters for this decision. It will say something like “Passengers and cargo not to exceed xxxx lbs”…or something similar. That number is the payload capacity for that truck. That’s the number that shouldn’t be exceeded. All of the other numbers that show various weights for the axles aren’t going to help you. They will just add confusion for what you’re trying to accomplish and potentially cause you to make a poor decision. The OEM has done all of the math to give you the one number that tells you what you need to know for towing safely with all of the weight you are placing on the truck.

You can take your trailer to the scales, loaded as you would have it for your trips. You can get your actual pin weight. If not then you can use 23% of the GVWR as a calculated pin weight. Either way, take that weight, plus the hitch, people, and any other gear that will be loaded into the truck. If that total number is less than your truck’s published payload then you’re OK. If not, then you need more truck.

My dually has a payload of approx 5400 lbs per the sticker. That is well over what I need. But I enjoy the overkill and added stability…especially in heavy wind.
 
I did not read all the post, this might be repeated, sorry if so.

4 wheel drive is kind of like insurance on any item you may insure. If you never use it because a "situation" never arrives, you may think the cost of the insurance is simply not worth it. However, that ONE time something happens and you do need it, you are SURE glad you had the insurance.

I think the same can be said of a 2x4 / 4x4 truck or any vehicle. You may have a 4x4 truck for 10 years and never use the 4x4 feature a single time. But in the 11th year, "IT" happens! and you need it. Now you are glad you had it all this time!

Edit: It is not necessary to tow your fifth wheel in 4x4. 2x4 works just fine. I have used 4x4 with the camper, only when attempting actually park in some pretty awkward campsites where the ground was just ... awful! That's the only time. But, I'm glad I had the 4x4 when the truck and trailer would have been miserably stuck if only in 2x4.

But, because my home is in snow country, the 4x4 feature gets used a lot in the Winter months ... but I don't tow on snow!

You have to determine your usage of the truck when NOT towing also.

Edit, Edit:
Just looked at the original post. It was posted in September 2023. (My bad!)
 
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You might be able to get the numbers from the manufacturer’s website by entering your VIN. Just tried it on our F350. The top 3 capacity numbers with the max payload as mentioned is key.
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Tire capacity are the main concerns. I should be good there. Tires rated for 4800 I think.
 
Monte421 - I may have missed it but what truck do you have?

The problem with trying to figure out the capacity of my truck by using the online charts is that those charts are best case scenario and totally based on the configuration of that truck. Most trucks in the lineup won’t have those specs. It’s important to know what you’ve got and what it’s capable of.

IMHO, tire capacity is not the main concern, truck payload is the main concern. Tires that are rated for the truck will typically have the rating necessary to support the truck’s payload.
 
Typically the GVWR of the truck doesn’t change for 4x2 or 4x4 - what does change are carry capacity (due to LOWER TRUCK WEIGHT) and the height of bed rails are lower for 4x2
 
A 4x4 will typically sit higher than a 4x2. More equipment under the truck and better ground clearance since it’s a 4x4. Most of us aren’t going to go jumping logs in stock configuration but the ground clearance is better all the same.
 
A 4x4 will typically sit higher than a 4x2. More equipment under the truck and better ground clearance since it’s a 4x4.
A 4x2 has 2" spacers between the axles and the springs. A 4x4 has 4" spacer and that is why they are taller. Some have replaced the 4" spacers with 2" ones to help increase the clearance between the top of the bed and the RV (it allows one to raise the hitch height and still be level).
 
Our truck has few options but if we added powered, leather seats; large moonroof; a powered sliding rear window, that 4,359 lb payload above would have decreased by 300 lbs - 500 lbs. There were some nicely optioned trucks on the lot but everything else being the same with ours (diesel, 4x4, LB, spring capacity, tire capacity, etc) they had lower payloads. Factory payload is VIN (option) specific.
 

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