Towing in the winter

[Jo & Mike]

We are settled in for a few days with 20-30 temps using propane and keeping the underbelly etc warm.
Our question is; when we hook up and travel to our next destination (eventually we will be in the South) for a few nights (basically our 5th is IN motion with this scenero) do we need to be concerned with keeping the underbelly warm as we travel down the road to our next destination? And if so, what is recommended? We are usually on road for the 3-3-3 rule.

Also, is it ok to keep for 1/2-3/4 water in the holding tank.
Thanks for the thoughts/advice.

 

[Carl n Susan]

Your 2012 model has the two piece tanks. They are known to have problems with the lid of the tank popping loose when full. I try to avoid traveling very far with them near full or full. I have moved with them 1/3 to 1/2 full and survived. There are no baffles in the tanks and liquid can slosh around unimpeded. The less liquid, the less pressure the sloshing can apply to the lid. Add in the weight of a near full tank and the flex in the tank that results and I start to pucker about what damage that can do.

We try to minimize the amount of fluids in the holding tanks when we won't be able to dump for a few days. Navy showers, minimal dish washing and use of external bathrooms all help reduce the amount of stored fluids.

As for traveling in the cold, I really can't help as we don't do that. I would think running the furnace will going down the road in freezing temperatures can't hurt.

 

[Thebricklayer]

We try to never run down the road with any fluids on board (fresh, black, or gray) for the exact reasons Carl mentioned. Also, as Carl mentioned when we leave Michigan to head south in January, we have always left our furnace running but turned down.

 

[Carl n Susan]

Just to be clear, I only talking about the Black & Grey tanks. The fresh water tank is a different deal and much stronger (and not a two piece glued together one). I usually travel with a 3/4 to full fresh water tank. Which you want if you are in frozen country.

 

[DutchmenSport]

As far as traveling in the cold and keeping heat in the underbelly...? That depends on how long you will be traveling and what the ambient temperatures are.

If you travel 3 to 5 hours in 30 degree weather in the daylight hours, you will most likely have no concerns about the under belly, or the water freezing in any of your holding tanks even if you have no heat source in the underbelly.

If you travel that same time and distance and the temps are 20 below zero, you'll have problems with freezing water for sure.

Winterizing is not a difficult job if you do it once or twice a season. But to winterize every few days to travel with no heat and the unwinterize a few hours later when you reach your next destination can be tiresome for sure.

But, that is my suggestion for safe travel if you have any doubts.

My second suggestion is NOT to winterize with RV antifreeze in this situation, but to do a simple air compressor blow. If the ambient temps are not dangerous zone (like 10 degrees or lower), blowing your water lines is a good way to prevent damage and does not taint your water system with the RV antifreeze and then having to flush it all out.

Attach an air compressor and open each faucet until it spits air. This takes no time at all. No need to drain the tanks. For a 3 to 5 hour drive, you should have enough water in your tanks they won't freeze up in that time. And even if they do, nothing will get hurt because there is good room for ice expansion. Once you power up the camper, the furnace heat under the floor will worm things up again at your next destination.

Again, if the temps are (my guess) ... above 20 degrees, blowing the lines and leaving the rest will be fine for a 3 to 5 hour drive. Your water heater will still have some warmth, so no need to drain it either.

That my suggestion. Yes, it takes a few moments to blow, but that's much better than spending hours repairing broken water lines from freezing up.

Edit: Before "blowing" put your water heater in by-pass and make sure the water heater is turned off ... gas and electric. When turning the water back "on" (either garden hose or water pump), fill the water lines first (purge the air) ... THEN take the water heater out of bypass. Purge the water heater (it will have a small amount of air), and then turn the water heater back on.

 

[Daryles]

When traveling in winter with freezing temperatures we leave the rig Winterized. No water in freshwater tank at all. I used compressed air to blow out the pipes when winterizing. We put tubs in the sinks (picture, also very useful method for boondocking) to keep water out of the galley tank and jugs of water to wash dishes. Use the Campground facilities for showers and toilets. If you have to go we use gallon jugs of water for flushing followed by pink antifreeze. Urine has a lot of salt in it so that actually helps prevent the black tank from freezing. Keep the black tank heater on if you use it.

 

[Jo & Mike]

Just to be clear, I only talking about the Black & Grey tanks. The fresh water tank is a different deal and much stronger (and not a two piece glued together one). I usually travel with a 3/4 to full fresh water tank. Which you want if you are in frozen country.

Thank you, that makes sense. Also, it helps confirm what we were thinking for about 3/4 full fresh water tank-always different thoughts on that.

 

[Jo & Mike]

Thank you, that makes sense. Also, it helps confirm what we were thinking for about 3/4 full fresh water tank-always different thoughts on that.

 

[Jo & Mike]

As far as traveling in the cold and keeping heat in the underbelly...? That depends on how long you will be traveling and what the ambient temperatures are.

If you travel 3 to 5 hours in 30 degree weather in the daylight hours, you will most likely have no concerns about the under belly, or the water freezing in any of your holding tanks even if you have no heat source in the underbelly.

If you travel that same time and distance and the temps are 20 below zero, you'll have problems with freezing water for sure.

Winterizing is not a difficult job if you do it once or twice a season. But to winterize every few days to travel with no heat and the unwinterize a few hours later when you reach your next destination can be tiresome for sure.

But, that is my suggestion for safe travel if you have any doubts.

My second suggestion is NOT to winterize with RV antifreeze in this situation, but to do a simple air compressor blow. If the ambient temps are not dangerous zone (like 10 degrees or lower), blowing your water lines is a good way to prevent damage and does not taint your water system with the RV antifreeze and then having to flush it all out.

Attach an air compressor and open each faucet until it spits air. This takes no time at all. No need to drain the tanks. For a 3 to 5 hour drive, you should have enough water in your tanks they won't freeze up in that time. And even if they do, nothing will get hurt because there is good room for ice expansion. Once you power up the camper, the furnace heat under the floor will worm things up again at your next destination.

Again, if the temps are (my guess) ... above 20 degrees, blowing the lines and leaving the rest will be fine for a 3 to 5 hour drive. Your water heater will still have some warmth, so no need to drain it either.

That my suggestion. Yes, it takes a few moments to blow, but that's much better than spending hours repairing broken water lines from freezing up.

Edit: Before "blowing" put your water heater in by-pass and make sure the water heater is turned off ... gas and electric. When turning the water back "on" (either garden hose or water pump), fill the water lines first (purge the air) ... THEN take the water heater out of bypass. Purge the water heater (it will have a small amount of air), and then turn the water heater back on.

GREAT info-thank you! We travel about 2-3 hours and will be staying above 35 "most likely" as we go South...But we all know the weather! Thanks again.

 

[Turd Furgeson]

i have a small footprint Hitachi air compressor i keep with an airline up in the forward storage. i blow my lines when returning from paradise into the great white north in early to mid-march. like daryles i try to keep things dryed out till i am well into the warmth of the south when we head down in january...never know where that "warm spot" is as mother nature is..well mother nature.

 

[Mark77]

When we went south from ND to AZ last winter, and later came back in still sub-freezing weather we were winterized both directions north of Kansas.

We tried to use facilities on fuel stops and when we overnighted in the rig we used bottled water and paper plates, etc for utensils... and for the toilet we flushed with regular blue windshield washer fluid. The little we used it didn't put enough weight in the black tank to be concerned about.

We did do 400+ mile days so we were not in the cold all that long.

 

[BuckandTeresa]

When we went south from ND to AZ last winter, and later came back in still sub-freezing weather we were winterized both directions north of Kansas.

We tried to use facilities on fuel stops and when we overnighted in the rig we used bottled water and paper plates, etc for utensils... and for the toilet we flushed with regular blue windshield washer fluid. The little we used it didn't put enough weight in the black tank to be concerned about.

We did do 400+ mile days so we were not in the cold all that long.

I like the windshield washer fluid idea—cheaper than the pink stuff and won’t freeze.

 

[mroley]

I have been using my Montanas for skiing for years (2002-present) many times in single digits. Keep heat on to 40 degrees when parked at home between trips every weekend with no problem. That's black, grey and fresh w/hot water tank on. No problems ever, been in minus temps also, keeping furnace on does the trick.