Suburban Hot Water Tank Electric Heating Element

[DPAM]

The electric heating element for the suburban hot water tank is rated at 1440 watts and the cost is close to $34.00. Is there any harm in buying a generic heating element that screws in like the OEM unit but is 1500 watts amd costs around $15.00 at Home Depot?

Appreciate your thoughts.

 

[Ozz]

Nope! I did that, it works just dandy.

 

[1retired06]

no problem

 

[LCBoyer]

No problem, I did that years ago and never had a problem

 

[DQDick]

That solution, as you can see, is strongly recommended by the folks on the forum.

 

[Ozz]

I think the builders did that for an electrical load balancing reason, lower the amp-draw and more things work better with 30 amp power.

 

[Parts Ed]

Anyone have the "brand name and part number"

TIA

 

[Ozz]

Check this one out my friend:
http://www.amazon.com/Camco-02143-Screw-In-Heater-Element/dp/B0006IX89Q

Ozz

 

[DPAM]

Ozz, thank you for the information, however I've already bought one from Home Depot. Mind you at this price its a good idea to add a spare to all the other spare parts I now have.

 

[Jlb27537]

quote:Originally posted by Ozz

I think the builders did that for an electrical load balancing reason, lower the amp-draw and more things work better with 30 amp power.

The amp draw difference is .5 amps. 1440/120=12.0. 1500/120=12.5.

You can buy a 1500 watt element at most ACE stores for $9.95. If you are in a 30A site, the water heater probably should be on LP. As should the frig. I want all my power available for the A/C.

There is no load balancing on a single phase 30A ckt.

In my 2014 3150RL the "builders/Keystone" put the water heater and rear A/C on the same leg of the 240/50A service. The second A/C is on the other leg.

So much for load balancing.

Jim

 

[Ozz]

Yep, you are right. But then you know that. I was thinking a lower amp draw. Hey, a half amp here, a half amp there, pretty soon you have an amp...

 

[Parts Ed]

Thanks Jim.....