So confused about winterizing

KristaBass

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RV LIFE Pro
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Location
Statesville
I have a 2013 Mountaineer 358RLT with the Freeze Guard winterizing system. My model also has a water heater bypass and winterizing setting. I want to winterize with compressed air instead of antifreeze. Does anyone have step by step instructions? The manual has steps but it doesn't seem to be anywhere close to what I'm seeing in videos and it tells me nothing about these three components listed above.

I'm thinking the freeze guard system is just for pumping antifreeze thru the system and that I won't use it for compressed air. Is this true?
 
Those are helpful. Thanks! But still confused about the “winterize” switch/valve thingy in the wet bay. What exactly does it do?
 
Here’s a picture of the back side of the wet bay so you can see the flow. The winterize valve (green arrow) allows the water pump to pull water from the fresh water tank via a hose (red arrow) that goes back to the tank or pull pink antifreeze from the winterize port (yellow arrow), depending on witch way you set the valve. Winterize valve “off” pulls water from the tank. When you want to winterize with pink, turn it to “on” and it closes off the tank line and opens to to winterize port so it will pump pink through the trailer.
 

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Your information says you live in "Statesville." If that's Georgia you might be okay by using only air, if somewhere where you get a long hard freeze, maybe not. I don't trust air to get all the water out of all the places it might hide. The only safe thing to do is pump RV A/F through the system.
 
It’s Statesville NC. Still cause for concern? Is it this particular model or would you have concern for any RV using compressed air?
 
I'm going to say it's any RV. Compressed air will remove much of the water, but could leave some behind, especially around the fittings and couplings. That would allow the possibility of freezing to cause damage and leaks.
I live in Florida, but travel through your area several times a year. I use compressed air when we are looking at a hard freeze, but that hasn't happened in a while. This year was my first time actually winterizing with pink antifreeze as my rig went back to Elkhart, IN for repairs. It's really not difficult. I poured 4 gallons in a 5 gallon bucket, bypassed the water heater, attached a short hose to the winterize port and turned on the pump. Went to each faucet and turned it on until only pink flowed, then I used my outdoor shower hose to attach to the black tank flush and ran it for a few seconds.
I poured the remainder of the pink stuff down each trap and in the toilet to keep the seal from drying out. Took all of about 10 minutes to do.
 
I'm going to say it's any RV. Compressed air will remove much of the water, but could leave some behind, especially around the fittings and couplings. That would allow the possibility of freezing to cause damage and leaks.
I live in Florida, but travel through your area several times a year. I use compressed air when we are looking at a hard freeze, but that hasn't happened in a while. This year was my first time actually winterizing with pink antifreeze as my rig went back to Elkhart, IN for repairs. It's really not difficult. I poured 4 gallons in a 5 gallon bucket, bypassed the water heater, attached a short hose to the winterize port and turned on the pump. Went to each faucet and turned it on until only pink flowed, then I used my outdoor shower hose to attach to the black tank flush and ran it for a few seconds.
I poured the remainder of the pink stuff down each trap and in the toilet to keep the seal from drying out. Took all of about 10 minutes to do.

I want to add for the OP’s sake that you connect the air source at 5he city water connection. Use 30-40psi max. Throw the water heater by-pass switch and methodically go from front to back or vice versa hot &cold, toilet, shower, washer hookup, outdoor shower.
When done, get your pink antifreeze and a length of clear plastic hose with a fitting that allows you to connect to the winterize port (looks like the city water) throw the winterize lever, then turn on your water pump inside the command center. make sure to have a ready supply of pink. It’s easier to have help or use a 5gal buck with 3 gal of pink. Open each valve hot and cold, toilet etc, until pink comes out. Don’t forget washer, out door shower, blank tank flush, and P traps. Lastly drain your hot water tank.
 
If using air, connect a regulated air supply to your city water connection set at 20-30 psi. Cycle each hot and cold tap till water has been removed. Pour 2 cups of rv antifreeze into all p-traps and open and leave open low point drains when finished.
 
Air only

I have only used air for over 15 years with no issues. You just need to make sure all water is out of the lines.
 
When Rv antifreeze is on sale, I buy about 10 gallons. I put the antifreeze in the fresh water tank. We never use the holding tank because we stay at rv parks. At the end of the season I bypass the water heater. Turn the pump on an run the antifreeze thru all faucets, toilet and os shower. Even in winter it's so easy to go for trips.
 
I always winterize with air. I pump up the system including the water heater which I have drained to about 40 pounds then let all the water out each outlet. I leave it pressurized for a week or so and each time I go by the camper I redrain each faucet again. Normally once is enough. I’ve never had anything to freeze. Think about this if you put a glass with a little water in it in the freezer it will not bust. The water has somewhere to expand to. I never cut the outside faucets off inside my home. They freeze solid but do no harm. The water has a place to expand to as it freezes, it backs up in the pipe and causes no harm.
Lynwood
 

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