Residential Fridge

CraigBinFL

Senior Member
Joined
Jul 13, 2021
Posts
105
Location
Niceville
Thinking about downsizing from our 2015 3582RL to something around 30-34ft. Many models are only advertizing a residential style fridge. I've always had 2 or 3-way fridges that operate on LP as well as electric. My question is: How does a residential fridge stay cold while traveling or off-grid? Is there an inverter drawing off the house and/or truck batteries?
 
You are correct. Residential refrigerators for RV's will now come in 2 flavors: DC or AC.

DC (12 volt) residential refrigerators will run directly off the battery 12 volt system always. Of course, when hooked up to shore power, your converter is charging your battery, and all the 12 volt devices throughout the entire camper are drawing power from a combination of the battery and the converter.

AC (120 volt) residential refrigerators run only on AC. But! a device can be installed in the camper that will convert the battery (DC 12 volt) to AC 120 AC volt. This is called an inverter.... notice the difference:

"Converter" input is AC, output is DC
"Inverter" input is DC, output is AC.

A residential refrigerator in an RV will require one additional piece of equipment .... a transfer switch.

The transfer switch will automatically switch power going to the refrigerator to ensure it always received 120 volt AC electricity. The transfer switch has 2 "inputs" .... both AC from shore power AND DC from the battery.

The transfer switch detects when the camper is plugged into shore power. When it is, the transfer switch switches the "input" from AC shore power. When the camper is disconnected from shore power, the transfer switch will detect the loss of AC electricity and immediately switch it's input from the "inverter" ... via the battery.

This keeps the refrigerator running continuously without interruption when plugged into shore power and when not.

Now, the challenge is to keep the battery charged (and that's a topic for someone else to piggy-back on).

A residential refrigerator inside your camper will function exactly like a refrigerator inside your house. If your house looses power, you have "X" number of hours before things begin to get too warm inside, and "X" number of hours before the ice cream in the freezer section begins to melt. Every refrigerator is different here, regarding it's longevity to remain cold without power, and it also depends upon the ambient temperature around the refrigerator too. If no power, Ice Cream will begin to melt a lot sooner if the ambient temperature is 100 degrees, opposed to it being only 50 degrees.
 
For traveling with the resi fridge, the trailer battery charges thru the 7-way plug (unless the trailer is equipped with other means). On longer travel days 7+ hrs, we would find our one LCA battery would be charged enough but not fully charged by the time we got to the campsite. The longer trips would usually include a lunch or other breaks where the battery keeps the fridge running.

If you don’t already, you might want a generator (even a small portable). The truck can provide power via the 7-way but that has its drawbacks. (We carry a small portable and have another that we bring depending on our travel plans. Also have added solar and LiPo.)
 

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