Removal of power nails and coroplast underbelly

Maggiesclan

Advanced Member
Joined
Jan 14, 2018
Posts
83
Location
Meaa
Hello and Happy New Year.

I recently discovered a water leak, from water tank on our 3610RL. Water is dripping from the insulation at drain cutout on the underbelly material.

To explore for the leak I’ll have to remove the underbelly barrier material near the water tank. The material is attached to the frame with what looks
Like steel pegs.

Does anyone have experience/suggestion as to what type of tool works best to remove the steel pegs.

Thanks
 
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I am lazier than you. I would start with removing the back wall of the pass through storage and look around with a strong flashlight before removing underbelly.
 
I pulled all of mine; about 60.

Some of them will spin out with a 1/4" bit, just like a screw.

Some of them will spin part way out and you then take a pry bar or claw hammer, put pressure on them and continue to spin them out or just pop them out with the pry bar.

Replace them with self drilling screws and washers (I used #10 x 3/4"). Use a good power driver or drill and wear safety glasses. While you are doing this inspect the skirting that rolls under the trailer and attaches to the frame. The factory did not use any washers on mine and after a few months, several had pulled through and others were loose. Put some washers on these.
 
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Hello and Happy New Year.

I recently discovered a water leak, from water tank on our 3610RL. Water is dripping from the insulation at drain cutout on the underbelly material.

To explore for the leak I’ll have to remove the underbelly barrier material near the water tank. The material is attached to the frame with what looks
Like steel pegs.

Does anyone have experience/suggestion as to what type of tool works best to remove the steel pegs.

Thanks

You didn't mention what year your rv is and it isn't in your signature.

My 2019 Montana High Country 384 br is doing the same thing. I noticed it over the weekend when I saw the icicle. I didn't even know there was a drain there. much less one exposed to the cold. Sure wasn't pointed out to me when I bought it and nothing in the useless owner manual.


I used as much water as I could with the water pump and then I thawed it out with a heat gun and opened the valve and drained the tank. Left the valve open. That was Saturday. It's still dripping, at first it was dripping out of the drain valve, now it's like yours, dripping down the drain pipe and out of the foam they foamed around the hole in the coroplast.

I initially thought that the freezing of the drain valve had traveled up into the pipe above, and cracked the pipe or a fitting, and when the tank emptied completely it would stop. Since it's still dripping I'm wondering if it's coming from the useless outside shower at the rear of the unit. That's the only plumbing close by.

I know it's aggravating. I'm not touching it, will take it in for warranty when I get laid off and haul it home or sooner if it gets real bad.

I'll be interested to see what you find in there.
 
I am fortunate that our rig is a 2012, and they were using 1/4" X 1" hex head TEK screws then. Other than the difficulty of removing the fasteners, the coroplast is not that hard to remove and re-install after repairs are made. Several years ago, I had to remove the entire sheet under the drop frame where the black and grey tanks are located to repair a crack in the grey tank. I was able to re-install the coroplast by myself, so it just takes a little planning and time to do this. You will definitely need a quality power tool to drive those screws into the frame, but that drill or driver tool will pay for itself over time when you do future repairs.
 
Thanks Rohrmann for your response! You are correct that a good driver will help get the job done. Thanks
 
Use a floor jack and 4x4 or larger piece of plywood to lift the coroplast. This makes for a fairly easy project compared to having to lift a small section at a time. I lifted my whole front under belly with the jack and it made it a whole lot easier to manage.
 
I'm lazy. Take it to a shop and spend the $1100. More than likely it is a crack at the top that is a pain.


If it is the tank, you may find it difficult to find an exact replacement tank too.



Also, the water could just be water from rain/road water.
 
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