Pull test question

[HIDE-EE]

My question is how would you perform a pull test with hydraulic jacks? My last trailer had electric landing gear that both moved at the same time. The new trailer is hydraulic and the gear doesn’t move even- one side raises before the other once the weight is off the gear and on the truck. I always did a pull test with my last trailer and when I asked the dealership when picking up the new one they assured me that my B&W hitch would never open once locked. I have had 2 B&W hitchs a16k patriot in my ‘06 GMC(retired to my daily driver) and now a 25k companion in the new tow vehicle a ‘23 Chevy. I fully trust the B&W but in my opinion the pull test is more about human error than hitch failure. I searched before asking and found several people saying it’s not necessary to pull test but it is just peace of mind to me. And if it ever came unhooked and hurt the truck and trailer my wife would NEVER let me forget the time I broke the truck and trailer. Also what is a “bump test”.

 

[RMcNeal]

For the pull test, I usually just bring the front jacks up to where the weight is off the truck and the jacks are only an inch or so off the ground (or my pad if I use one). Have no idea what a bump test is.

 

[Creeker-MOC]

We purchased our first 5th wheel in 2008. I have not yet performed a "pull test".


I look with my own eyes using a flashlight or phone light to see if the pin is seated correctly and the jaws are locked. I understand the pull test if your hitch doesn't allow a visual test.

 

[RMcNeal]

Good Point!
I actually do both, just in case the hitch should fail for some reason. Only takes a second.

 

[Daryles]

I don't see how a pull test is necessary. We have a Curt A20 hitch. When you hitch it, the jaws lock around the hitch pin, then you put a locking pin through the release handle so the release handle cannot move.
I guess if you wanted to be sure, after this step, before you retract the landing gear, you could give it a gentle pull test. Then retract everything.

 

[RMcNeal]

Probably not necessary. I have a B&W Companion hitch that comes apart in 2 pieces, so I guess I'm pull testing that as well as the kingpin connection. Just gives me a better feeling, I suppose. Same as testing my brakes with the pinch test on the brake controller.

 

[DutchmenSport]

I don't have a B&W, but I always do a pull test... always. Do you go around the back of the trailer and check to see if the turn signals are working? Or do you look up toward the roof of the trailer and see if the running / clearance lights are lit up? Do you check the air in your tires before pulling out after sitting a while? If you do all of these, then you do you cheat out on the pull test?

Pull test, simple to do: Hitch up. Raise front landing gear just slightly off the ground. Start truck engine. Put in gear. Hold trailer break controller brakes so brakes are fully engaged on the trailer. Attempt to move the truck forward slightly.

If the fifth wheel hitch is not connected proper, the trailer will separate from the hitch, the trailer will fall only the distance from the bottom of the landing pads to the ground (less than an inch or however high the jacks were raised). Nothing hits the bed rails of the truck. Rehitch and try again. Nothing damaged.

If everything is OK, the trailer brakes should cause enough resistance, the truck will have difficulty moving forward, but the trailer will not separate from the hitch. You are good to go. No, finish raising the front landing jacks and drive safe!

 

[Carl n Susan]

While the B&W hitch will (should) not release once properly connected to the pin. It however can, and will, appear to be "locked" with the pin not in the jaws (aka high hitch). Don't ask how I know. After backing in and hearing (important) the hitch assembly snap close, I put the truck in Drive and see if it will idle out from the hitch. The jacks are still down and there isn't much load on the hitch so it doesn't take much for the truck to pull away is not properly hitched.

I then check with a flashlight to ensure the jaws are wrapped around the pin. Only then do I retract the hydraulic jacks.

 

[Theunz]

The correct way to hitch up is to have the trailer low enough that when the hitch engages the pin it lifts the landing gear about 1/4 to 1/2 inch off the ground. That way you can initiate the pull test without stressing the landing gear and if it fails the trailer will not drop enough to hurt the truck or trailer. You should ALWAYS do a pull test no matter what kind of hitch you have.

 

[Hammer-5TH]

We ALWAYS pull test before pulling out, Gives me a sense of security while I'm on the road.

 

[scottz]

It only fell on my truck once before I learned to do a pull test every time. Hydraulic jacks are not a problem. My drivers side jack always moves first (extending or retracting).

1. Complete hook up procedure; lock hitch; visually check to see that jaws are closed properly
2. Retract jacks so weight is on hitch and jacks are a few inches off the ground
3. Extend jacks until drivers side grounds (it moves first), after the other side starts moving, stop while it is an inch or so above the ground
4. Retract until the drivers side is an inch or so off the ground (it moves first)
5. Complete test using trailer brakes to put pressure on jaws (accomplishes two things; pull test & brake test
6. Retract jacks fully (don't forget this step).
7. Visually double check everything with a flashlight; hit the road

 

[Derby6]

I’m with Creeker and physically look. Even forgot that’s time or 2. But I don’t pull test.
Big rigs lift legs when hitched but not pickups with campers.

 

[rames14]

First, to do a pull test with hydraulic jacks, raise the front jacks until one is a few inches off the ground and the other is up, then hit extend. The one all of the way up will come down. When both are a few inches off the ground, do your pull test.

For those that don’t do a pull test, how do you validate your brakes are working. We were in Alaska, the prior day brake check was fine. The next day, no brakes. The caliper bracket bolts were all missing. Beside brake issues, every single mechanical part is subject to failure. That includes every brand of hitch and human error. No one who has had a failure (human or mechanical) “needed to do a brake check”. Just my humble opinion. I was seconds away from Scott’s situation - mine was human error. For those who never make a mistake, no problem.

 

[Theunz]

Big rigs lift legs when hitched but not pickups with campers.

They most certainly will, just back up close to the pin and lower the trailer just enough that it will lift the trailer a bit. The fore and aft tilting of the hitch makes this easy.

 

[daboom11]

Pull Test

They most certainly will, just back up close to the pin and lower the trailer just enough that it will lift the trailer a bit. The fore and aft tilting of the hitch makes this easy.

Don't forget to Tighten your landing gear nuts and bolts. After quite a few pull tests they can come loose and fall out. Ask me how I know!

 

[Derby6]

They most certainly will, just back up close to the pin and lower the trailer just enough that it will lift the trailer a bit. The fore and aft tilting of the hitch makes this easy.

Yes you can lower the trailer down forcing it to lift the legs. But I see no reason to put all this downward force and pressure when it can be done gently.
I see little to no comparison to and 18 wheeler hooking to a commercial trailer and a pick up hooking to a camper.

 

[scottz]

Don't forget to Tighten your landing gear nuts and bolts. After quite a few pull tests they can come loose and fall out. Ask me how I know!

Good point, but it was not pull tests that caused things to come loose; just normal use. A pull test simply replicates what your rig is constantly doing as you drive down the road; with the added safety factor of the jacks almost down to catch it should something go wrong.

 

[scottz]

I'm reminded of someone I used to work with. When there was a debate about whether we should do something or not; his response was "why not do it?"

You had to have a really good reason for not doing it. You would never say "It takes too much time" or "too hard to do" or "I'm just lazy"; that wouldn't fly.

That has become my reasoning whenever I start debating myself about doing something or not; "why not do it?" Sometimes there is a good reason; most often there is not. IE: should I pack the wheel bearings now or wait till next year? The why not do it now reasoning answers that question.

So, why not do a pull test?

 

[Derby6]

For me the why not is it isn’t needed. I know what I’m doing and physically look to ensure it’s down tight and jaws are locked.
Kudos to those that do. Good for them. No issue at all. But I personally don’t.

 

[432bartman]

When I use to have a regular fifth wheel hitch, I always dropped the truck in gear to make sure it was locked. After seeing my buddies truck bed destroyed, I would never not to a pull test. With the Reese Goosebox, I don't have that issue.