Thanks, I will start taking the corner down I followed the wires into the inside of frameThe power to the slide out comes from a junction box, under the coroplast near the rear of the slide, along a flexible plastic support, to a box on the inside of the slide in the back corner. I would check those locations for power. The junction under the slide is known to be prone to water intrusion and corrosion.
That’s what I thought. When I dropped the coroplast all I could find was a spot where it looks like a pre molded connection but no junction box. I removed coroplast all the way to spare tireThe junction box in the slide is on the floor at the back corner. You will have to remove the fireplace to get to it. There is another junction box inside the frame where the wire bundle connects.
Finally got to the connectors one was broken and full of water the other 3 are also have water in them they weren’t screwed down to anything just bouncing around back thereThey may be doing something different now. But they have to convert the Romex to braided wire for the flexible portion going to the slide. They then convert the braided wire to Romex once it is into the back of the slide They likely use a Molex connector for the transitions. How they are encased/protected is the question.
I am using a toner(usually used to follow lines,) have no beeping from interior line at fuse panel to interior wiring in where they come into trailer behind fireplace.Will try running a wire from neutral in panel to meter.Something you might try to eliminate one more possibility.
If you are putting your meter leads across the hot and neutral slots on the outlet, and not measuring 120 vac, it could be that you have lost neutral to those outlets rather than hot. Loss of neutral would also appear to show no power.
Try running a long wire from your main neutral buss bar to one of your meter leads. Then insert the other meter lead into the outlet hot pin and see if it shows 120 vac. If it does, then you do have power there but you have an open neutral. Thus a new direction for your troubleshooting. If it still shows no power then back to square one.
Tried running neutral wire from panel to meter, no power. Tracing wire all the way to where it turns inward, have tone to that point. Where it goes up through floor I lose it.I am using a toner(usually used to follow lines,) have no beeping from interior line at fuse panel to interior wiring in where they come into trailer behind fireplace.Will try running a wire from neutral in panel to meter.
Is it possible that the panel went bad?Tried running neutral wire from panel to meter, no power. Tracing wire all the way to where it turns inward, have tone to that point. Where it goes up through floor I lose it.
There are at least two breakers involved here, so having both fail at the same time is unlikely. It could be you are missing a leg on the 50 amp input, but then there would be other inoperative circuits. Have you measure the voltage at each CB with a VOM?Is it possible that the panel went bad?
Its not clear to me exactly where you were checking when you detected power and where you lose it "up thru the floor".Tried running neutral wire from panel to meter, no power. Tracing wire all the way to where it turns inward, have tone to that point. Where it goes up through floor I lose it.
Yes I have measured voltage at all breakers,there is voltage at all of them. Have repaired the molex connects at the left rear of trailer. One was broken and another lost one of it’s cover.Also found the ones at the rr corner for right slide,they look good with no moisture in them,but just flopping around there also. I ran neutral wire like you suggested qnd have no voltage at molex connections in behind fireplace. Started tracing wires and have whole right side of corplast down.using toner I have traced the wires to where they turn in to go up to panel. All of them have tone to in front of right wheels.There are at east two breakers involved here, so having both fail at the same time is unlikely. It could be yu are misisng a leg on the 50 amp input, but then there would be other inoperative circuits. Have you measure the voltage at each CB with a VOM?
It is unclear to me if you found *BOTH* places where the wiring goes from Romex to Stranded and back to Romex cables. It seems you found the connection point behind the fireplace out in the slide. What about the connection point under the main chassis? A VOM will tell you if there is 120V power into and out of each connector. If there is, then the only explanation is a broken wire between the last good connection and the next point.
My 2017 has 3 romex wires to the slide with connectors on each so they can be disconnected for slideout removal.That’s what I thought. When I dropped the coroplast all I could find was a spot where it looks like a pre molded connection but no junction box. I removed coroplast all the way to spare tire