Magnesium vs Aluminum Anodes for RV Water Heater Odor

[rhondalarson]

What's your opinions on these two anodes to be used in a porcelain lined steel RV water heater?

Using the magnesium anode, I am trying to get away from nasty smell after the magnesium anode becomes one (1) year old.

Asking because I am thinking about going with the aluminium anode.

Your thoughts.

Thank you for your time.

Randy Larson

 

[BB_TX]

I tried the aluminum. But after a couple years it still looked practically new. Didn’t feel like it was doing its job so I went back to magnesium. My magnesiums were replaced after 2 years. But I never had any odor problem with type.

 

[DutchmenSport]

I don't know which one I have, it's STILL the original anode rod from when the camper was brand new. It still has a good 75% life left on it.... it's what? 7 years old now, and the water heater has been in use constantly since we purchased the camper new. I do drain the water a few times a year and flush the tank. The rod is still doing just fine. I don't think its magnesium though. There is no smell at all, ever, from my water heater.

 

[Daryles]

If you are having issues with smelly water, sanitize your freshwater system. Make sure you include the pipes going to your washer. These are frequently overlooked and the water goes stale in the pipes re-contaminating your pipes with smelly water.
We don't have a washer so I put shut off valves to those pipes behind the basement wall.

 

[beeje]

They make entered rods that have a petcock on the end so you don't have to remove them to drain the heater. I drain the heater after every trip unless I'm leaving again within a week or something. I believe the same water sitting in there for months contributes to the destruction of that honored rod and your water heater

 

[ojo123]

I suggest using an aluminum/zinc anode as a replacement. Aluminum anodes are better than magnesium but Aluminum/zinc will cure the odor problems for a longer period of time. I've used them all but the zinc one works the best for me.

 

[pyoung47]

Smell is due to bacteria growth. Magnesium works better by virtue of its sacrifice.

 

[Mark77]

I don't use any annode rod. I replaced it with a ball valve and I drain the water heater whenever the rig is going to sit for a week or more. I've just had too many bad experiences with living water sit in the water heater without frequent "turn over". I also open low point drains and the fresh water tank drain if applicable. No water sits in the plumbing to go stagnant.

Another benefit... Sometimes when I am home and I preform this draining ritual, I hook up an air hose with a regular set to about 45 PSI and then fully open the ball valve on the water heater. It blasts out water about 25 feet before it hits the ground. I let it vent until it's empty. That has to remove any sediment that may have accumulated in the tank.

If I was in the rig "full time" or close to it, I would probably leave an annode rod in it as there would be water in the heater for a long time, but for the occasional weekend stuff I do here in the summer, the drain system works for me.

 

[ojo123]

the anode rod also causes a chemical reaction releasing a sulphur gas in the hot water tank ecpecially with magnesium. I've read where the magnesium is best for bacteria growth but aluminum zinc does the same without the chemical reaction. I've also read using your hot water tank without an anode puts the tank in more danger of rust and corrosion.

 

[Mark77]

I've also read using your hot water tank without an anode puts the tank in more danger of rust and corrosion.

No chance of rust in an aluminum tank. Some other corrosion... maybe? I think the rods do more to protect the heating element in an electrically heated tank.

I don't even pretend to know the chemical reactions of water, magnesium, zinc, aluminum, et.al. but in the absence of the water component I think you are a lot safer if the rig is going to sit for a while.

 

[rhondalarson]

I don't use any annode rod. I replaced it with a ball valve and I drain the water heater whenever the rig is going to sit for a week or more. I've just had too many bad experiences with living water sit in the water heater without frequent "turn over". I also open low point drains and the fresh water tank drain if applicable. No water sits in the plumbing to go stagnant.

Another benefit... Sometimes when I am home and I preform this draining ritual, I hook up an air hose with a regular set to about 45 PSI and then fully open the ball valve on the water heater. It blasts out water about 25 feet before it hits the ground. I let it vent until it's empty. That has to remove any sediment that may have accumulated in the tank.

If I was in the rig "full time" or close to it, I would probably leave an annode rod in it as there would be water in the heater for a long time, but for the occasional weekend stuff I do here in the summer, the drain system works for me.

This is what for exactly! I don't blow the water out though....I just drain water heater if we are storing unit for 1 week or more.

 

[ColoradoKampers]

I had the same question and emailed Suburban. Their response:
All Suburban water heaters are manufactured with a magnesium anode rod. The magnesium rod provides protection against corrosion from a broad geographical range of water types. However there are times when the magnesium rod is rapidly consumed by excessive iron and mineral deposits in the water supply. For these situations Suburban recommends the use of the optional aluminum anode rod.

 

[rhondalarson]

I had the same question and emailed Suburban. Their response:
All Suburban water heaters are manufactured with a magnesium anode rod. The magnesium rod provides protection against corrosion from a broad geographical range of water types. However there are times when the magnesium rod is rapidly consumed by excessive iron and mineral deposits in the water supply. For these situations Suburban recommends the use of the optional aluminum anode rod.

Thank you!!!