Loose Table

I'll agree that Ozz is not only a nut but he does have a screw or two loose... :). Of course so do I, but I wouldn't post that on the web (it's not like I have to post that). :D

I just wish Jim would fix the thing and post the results and then this topic is done. The way I keep the table looking good is that we just don't use the rig as much as I'd like too. :(
 
OK, we will put this to bed. The OEM screws are #8. They extended about 3/4" below the base of the table, figure compressed carpet @ 1/4" that gives you 1/2" of bite into 1" of plywood. So with my 250 lbs pushing on one end of the table while trying to retrieve a adult beverage stored behind the table, well the screws pull out.

I considered gluing a dowel into the stripped hole, but that would only delay the known results. Refer to theory mentioned earlier.

So, using previously mentioned theory, I obtained some #14 wood screws. I found 2 1/2" to be the correct length for this project.

The original screws are recessed .35-.39" below the surface of the table feet. By going with 1/2" longer screws that gave them a bit more purchase into the floor. I beveled the OEM hole to fit the bevel head of the new screws and screwed it down into the existing holes. They tightened up nicely.

If they pull out again, I'll fill the holes with a product like Git-Rot or a liquid epoxy, screw it down and let it set up.

Jim

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We had the screws out of the table in our former 3150 and there was never a problem with it moving when we traveled--was easy to move to get behind it
 
Simply Old people do not uproot tables from their mounting devices, old, substantial people do.
When mine started wobbling, I thought of how the tie-down loops were fastened to the floor of my motorcycle trailer to hold my 750# Indian in place. I bolted them through the floor decking and a 1/4" plate, placed under the decking.I'm not sure how this would work in a dinette slide.
 

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