Jacks and air compressors for tires

[Sunliner]

What type of jack do you carry to jack up your Montana in case of flats or for under carriage service. For my old travel trailer I used a 2 1/2 ton floor jack but my new Montana is at least twice as heavy as my old rig

Also what type of compressor do folks carry to pump up tires? I currently carry a little 12 V DC compressor that struggles to inflate a bike tire. How many folks carry an air tank?

 

[nosticks-MOC]

I have a 6 ton bottle jack and two jack stands for service. I also use a 120v Porter Cable 150psi compressor. But, when it comes to changing tires on the road, "Hello Coachnet".

 

[DQDick]

Coach Net for me also, but if necessary I'd use my Level-up system to lift it. I'm also a fan of the Porter Cable 150# compressor. If you have 614's you have to have a compressor that shuts off well above 110#. The only problem I've had over the years with the Porter Cable was that the O ring went out on the drain valve. I didn't like the O ring idea and John Kohl pointed me toward replacing it with a radiator drain valve. Now no O ring and I'm a happy camper again. Some folks will be along who have great 12v compressors. I don't use one because if necessary I can power my Porter Cable with one of my Honda Generators. Not everyone has that option.

 

[FL-Joe]

I bought a cheap compressor from Harbor Freight a couple years ago. Just a cheap pancake (red) but will go to 110 pounds, not 12 volt though. Fits in my truck tool box and have actually used it a lot for work to keep from dragging out the big compressors. If I recall it cost between $40 and $50. It has fallen off a roof once, off a tailgate several times, freezes and bakes inside the truck tool box all year long, and still works great!

 

[Art-n-Marge]

For a jack I use a 12 ton (I also have a 6 ton). I used to have just the 6 ton until I saw once that when I jacked up the RV, the place I was doing this and the road I was on actually lifting the whole side of the trailer just a bit putting all this weight onto the 6 ton bottle jack. WOW, that was close! Since my RV weighs a maximum of 14,040 lbs, I could have used an 8 ton but, the price difference was minimal and the 12ton has more travel and margin.

I use a 110v 6 gal pancake compressor and long hose to air up the tires on the RV and TV from the truck bed. It is 135 psi and works great, but now most good ones start at 150 psi. Since I carry generators, I use them to easily power the compressor. I think 110v compressors work better than 12v compressor and since I am using a genny, I don't run the risk of 12v battery problems with the RV or TV. Don't forget to drain the air from the compressor for storage or the inside will rust and then when you use it in the future and the tank is now rusted out, it could be a hazard. I had a prior compressor do this. Fortunately, I heard the metal flakes inside when I shook the tank right before I was about to use it (then realized I hadn't been draining the tank, doh). Now, I always drain and leave the drain open to ensure the inside of the tank remains dry and rust free.

I also carry 4x4 blocks (4 to eight) to stack so that I can jack up from the RV frame. I used to jack from the u bolts but have since read that's not recommended and also found that it also cause the nuts on the u-bolt to loosen from having to hold the weight of the trailer and not just the axle when jacking up the trailer.

Another thing you'll want to do is keep the TV hitched when changing an RV tire. It provides extra stability. If I were going to change a Truck tire, then I'd unhook the RV to lessen the load jacking up the truck.

 

[1retired06]

We carry two 20-ton bottle jacks, and an electric 200PSI compressor, and have a 2500W inverter which is also handy for any emergency on the road.

 

[LCBoyer]

I carry a 12 volt, hi capacity compressor. Haven't needed it. I will trust Good Sam roadside assist to bail me out when I have a flat to change

 

[BB_TX]

I carry a 12 ton bottle jack. I also have a Harbor Freight 3 gal pancake compressor I bought for $39.95 on sale. Works great for topping off the tires. But I don't have a generator so I also carry a 12 volt compressor. Works in an emergency but is REALLY slow. Don't think it would do much good if a leak were too fast.
I also have Coach-Net for peace of mind.

 

[WaltBennett]

Got a 12 ton bottle in the front bay and a 6 ton bottle in the truck. Lots of 1/2" plywood squares & pieces of 2x6. Also have Good Sam that I'm certain to use if we've a flat I can't handle easily.

As an aside, I had to take all four wheels off to get new tires a few months back - the dealer claimed they didn't have the ability to lift the trailer. All it took was lowering the nose, extending the stabilizers and then putting the landing gear down to level and take most of the weight off the axles. I was able to use my cheapo one ton floor jack to raise one axle after the other, putting jack stands under each. Monty sat like that for about 24 hours until I put the new tires/wheels back on and reversed everything.

 

[Art-n-Marge]

I'm not sure I'd rely on that setup Walt. You are putting more weight on the front landing gear than just the front pin weight. Since there is no movement there's probably less stress, but I wouldn't wanna risk breaking the landing gear and even worse, the stabilizers stop movement of the rig, they are not designed to hold much of the trailer weight. If one has the Level-up or Big Foot systems these can hold the weight, but the landing gear and stabilizers are risky in my mind.

My plan for when I'm gonna elevate my Monty to get new tires all around is jacks and blocks on front and back of the wheels on each side of the trailer. The bottle jacks will be used for getting the Monty in the air to get the jacks and blocks under there while still hitched to the truck (for some stability and safety). I will always try and minimize the weight carried by the landing legs and the TV and maximize that the jacks and blocks carry the trailer weight.

 

[richfaa]

We have a couple of 12 ton jacks in the storage bin in the fear of the truck although I never plan to use them. I will use 1-800-GS road service or the level up system as a last resort. we have a pancake compressor that will handle the 110 psi of the Montana but it is at home in the garage and we use it when doing our pre trip.

 

[Emmel]

I use a 12 volt compressor for the inflation and AAA for road side service. 12 volt is from Harbor Freight, around $49. and will handle the 110 psi with no problem.

 

[Recumbent-MOC]

We carry one 12 ton bottle jack, two jack stands, six 1.5 inch wood blocks, along with Level Up System that will lift all 4 wheels at once, and a 12volt air compressor that will go to 150 psi but only very slowly. If needed we plan use our main tool Good Sam Emergency Road Service.

 

[bigred715]

Art, I hadn't heard of not lifting trailer by jack placement under U-Bolts. I thought a lot of people use this method if they don't have the 6-point system and assumed it was safe.

 

[Art-n-Marge]

It's not recommended, but I've done it when I had a bulging Mission tire and lifted at the U-bolt because I didn't have all the other equipment (no HD jack stands or blocks). The statement in my Montana owner's manual reads "Position a hydraulic jack on the frame close to the spring hanger. (Never attempt to use a stabilizer jack to lift the unit)". Note it does not say under the U-bolt and from the description, the only way I can lift from the frame close to the spring hanger is if I position the jack on blocks to get enough height to reach the frame to raise it.

When I found one of the problems is that the u-bolt-nuts get loose, I have since had my mind changed. It's been discussed here as such, that it's been done but shouldn't.

On the other hand, people do all kinds of things depending on what they have available and the sense of emergency and priority. For example, on another lighter travel trailer I owned, I lost a tire on downhill of the I-5 Grapevine in California and then had to change out to the spare ASAP. I used the U-bolt location there with semis blowing by and a minimum of shoulder to make the change. I can't imagine how long it would have taken with blocks, jack stands and more time spent.

 

[1retired06]

For what it is worth, my keystone dealer says it is OK to raise the axle at the U-Bolt and that is the way they do it in the shop; like I say, for what it is worth. I have done it several times over the years at the u-bolt location with no problem.

 

[dieselguy]

I just can't keep it button here ... there's no issue with placing the jack under a ubolt or inbetween the ubolts. It all boils down to a manufacturer warning that basically is their CYA bulletin for people that know no better than to place a jack right in the middle of an axle. On heavier axles, there is a solid steel stub that is part of the welded on spindle inside the axle tube. It reaches probably as far as inbetween the the ubolts. This is how the axle is made. You'll not crush an axle tube because of this. I've proved by a load cell that jacking under a ubolt just enough to remove a tire is only lifting about 2800# on my fiver. This isn't going to make a ubolt longer and loosen your nuts on the ubolts. If a ubolt is that soft, it needs to be replaced pronto. OK, I'm going to take a breath now ...

 

[Art-n-Marge]

No sense fretting or holding your breath, folks. I just posted what the book says and what's recommended especially since it made me change what I do. Sometimes I take recommendation and information and don't follow it 100%. I probably freak out over questionable safety information more than others. That's my choice and I don't want to turn blue in the face to follow it.

Being under enough vehicles and trailers, I've noticed that more times than not, there can be the tiniest of a slight gap between the round of the U-bolt and the axle. This is why I think jacking from the U-bolt jammed it up against the axle even more and this caused the nuts to loosen and who knows what I did to the axle (no problems so far and it's been 4-5 years). I don't jack from the u-bolt and at the last few torque checks, things were snug as they should be ever since.

If you want to jack up from the u-bolt, the frame, the brake drum or the axle, then so be it. A forum is a great place to post all information found for each person to develop their own sense that works for them from as much information as possible. Others have built metal "cups" to use at the U-bolts, some lift from the frame. Just learn enough to be comfortable and safe and it's not always the easy way.

Btw - my Keystone dealer also told me Missions were fine and I could tow overweight (by about 1,200 lbs). I chose otherwise as I learned more (ended up buying a newer truck but still was 300 lbs overweight), but I currently own Marathons as I continue to learn and legally changed out the rear end to completely solve being overweight. Now I've learned even more and have equipment that means I will jack up at the frame and no longer think about it. I will continue to pass this on if someone asks. I am not THE answer man in this forum, I am only one member of this forum trying to provide the best answer for a question.

This is a perfect example of what Jack Nicholson meant when he said, "You can't handle the truth". A manufacturer covers their rump because some individual caused them some major hardship and cost and they just don't want to afford a repeat. If they change their documentation to state this and I'm not smart enough to know why, and I'm able to get the equipment to follow their recommendation, then it's what I've done. Many times the changes are subtle because the public can't handle the truth and the panic is horrible. I won't go into examples of this, but I will mention Ford Explorer and Firestone tires - Has anyone rented from U-Haul lately, locations where I live will not rent trailers to Ford Explorer owners, even today, wow, really> It's panic!

I posted this because purely stating to go ahead and jack at the u-bolts is probably not the only thing to post. One should post what's the safest (manufacturer's documentation), then what else has been done and why. I've read too many wheel, tire, and suspension mishaps that tells me this concern isn't worth it for me. So I can't comment on whether this is an issue or not, so I just follow the recommendation since the OP asked what to use and it's helpful if we also add how and why.

Obviously, typing all this, I've been breathing fine. I wish you all the same. Collectively, we have answered the OP's question thoroughly.

 

[JimandLaurie]

I am like Art, 12 ton bottle jack, blocks for jacking up. I don' t mess around on safety on that. But still shopping for a compact 110v compressor. The Harbor Freight pancake sounds like it might work, but open to suggestions too.

 

[3665RE-WO]

Hi

When my unit was a couple of months old we went on a 3,000 round trip. One landing gear failed half way thru the trip. I purchase a 6 ton jack to handle the trailer with. When we got to Fort Smith the second landing gear failed so I got another 6 ton jack.

Then on the way home the driver’s side landing gear center fell down on the road.

I still have the jacks and the 4X4 blocks I purchased. I have used them several times to get un-stuck in some of the older RV parks.

I carry 2 jack stands as well. All of this is in the generator compartment with my Honda Eu2000’s

I am with Art-n-Marge you can lift the whole side if you jack on the frame bracket that the center MOR/ryde is fastened to.

I jack at the “U” bolts without problems.

Phil P