Inverter experts, I have a question

We have a 4000w, Motomaster Eliminator inverter.
It puts out the exact same power you will measure at your house receptacles. I'm very pleased with its performance so far.
The previous 3000w inverter we had put out
Hot to ground 60vac
Neutral to ground 60vac
Hot to Neutral 120vac.
In other words it had a floating ground. Everything except for the microwave worked fine.
One day while camping in Banff NP Canada, 2022, it died. Had to drive to Calgary Canada to buy the new one.

I got tired of doing a "Redneck" transfer from shore/generator to inverter power so I installed an ATS.
Write up here.
https://www.montanaowners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=90856
 
I know they make inverters that have a built in charger, but do they also offer an automatic transfer switch from shore power to your inverter/batteries? I'm looking at this 3000 watt inverter by Redodo and one of their 300 AH batteries.

https://www.redodopower.com/product...-wave-inverter-charger?variant=40531521110106

https://www.redodopower.com/products/12v-300ah-lithium-battery?variant=40198906904666
Had this in my last 2 rigs. Inverter, charger, built in TS and gen auto start. Branded under several Chinese brands. Aims, Sigineer, etc.
https://sigineer.com/product-category/inverter-chargers/12v-inverter-chargers/
https://www.aimscorp.net/product/3000-watt-pure-sine-inverter-charger/
 

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Tony, does it matter if the built in transfer switch is only rated for 30 amps, since when we plug into shore power its 50 amps? Since those two units you recommended have built in transfer switches, is there now no need to get an automatic transfer unit like this: So the transfer switch just goes in line between the wiring coming in from your shorepower, as how I see it?

https://www.etrailer.com/RV-Transfe...TjZQRHix_oJfIKSJutcbJyTn59oEFGMsaArlgEALw_wcB
 
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Tony, does it matter if the built in transfer switch is only rated for 30 amps, since when we plug into shore power its 50 amps? Since those two units you recommended have built in transfer switches, is there now no need to get an automatic transfer unit like this:

https://www.etrailer.com/RV-Transfe...TjZQRHix_oJfIKSJutcbJyTn59oEFGMsaArlgEALw_wcB
It's only rated for 30amps. I don't thing you'll be exceeding or even reaching 30 amps while inverting. You would need a really large battery bank to supply 30 amp's for any period of time. Are you looking to run your AC? Quite frankly, my dimensions 2K inverter works great. I have no need for a 3K. The dimensions also has a built in TS.
 
Do NOT use a 30A ATS on a 50 A rig.
Your inverter may only supply 30A max load and that's fine, BUT,
Shore power is 50A.
You need 6 gauge wire to handle 50A load.
30A only requires 10 gauge wire.

I installed a 50A ATS (see link above).
From the inverter to the ATS I used 10 gauge 3 Conductor wire because the inverter would only put out a max of 30A.
The existing shore cable coming in is 6 gauge.
From the ATS to the circuit breaker panel I used 6 gauge 4 Conductor wire to be able to carry the 50A.
The contactors inside the ATS are rated for 50A.
 
Thanks Daryl, yeah that's what I thought. My primary question is when I read about some of these inverters that offer charging and A TRANSFER SWITCH, does that mean I can skip getting a separate ATS?
 
Yes, IF you buy a converter/inverter with a built-in ATS, you do not have to buy a separate ATS.
The Victron Multiplus ii has these features AND, if you are on shore power and it's low (brown out voltage) the Multiplus will automatically draw power from your batteries, solar, generator etc, combine it and supplement the 120vac input to your circuit breaker panel.
It ain't cheap though...
Buy once, cry once.
 
I just got a response back from Redodo on the inverter I want to run and they said "Yes" that their 3000 watt unit can be hooked up to the 50 amp shore power. This unit will alleviate a separate charger and ATS for me.
 
Redodo 3000w inverter/charger

I just got a response back from Redodo on the inverter I want to run and they said "Yes" that their 3000 watt unit can be hooked up to the 50 amp shore power. This unit will alleviate a separate charger and ATS for me.

I just installed one last night. I’m no happy with it at all. On shore power the inverter still operates. I believe it doesn’t really transfer from inverter to shore power. It just starts using shore power instead of battery to supply sub panel Under heavy loads it’s very noisy. I’m going you remove it and bought something with a true transfer switch.
 
Just like the factory magnum inverters, they are always on. The noise is the fans that shouldn't be running when in bypass mode. At least every inverter I've had. If mounted in the battery bay you shouldn't hear the fans. I don't hear mine. Might be the brand of inverter you got. And welcome to the MOC.
 
We have used AIMS several times in the past and have been very happy. They have auto transfer built in and their pure sine wave 4kw units can handle 300% surge current for 20 seconds. As far as size, it depends upon how much of your trailer you want to power from the inverter. Size it for the KW of the total number of devices you want to run from the inverter at one time. Be sure to factor in the current spike that happens at startup on anything with a compressor or AC motor. The AIMS pure sine wave units can handle 300% surge for 20 seconds but again it depends upon how many devices you want to run. Always buy the pure sine wave output inverters and we prefer the 220 volt output. Also, don't forget to properly size the battery bank feeding the inverter. A pair of 100 amp hour batteries won't last long if you're running 2 air conditioners and a couple fans. Soft starts, variable frequency drives, and controllers that allow only one device to start/run at a time also help but of course that adds cost.
 
Guys I need a little help. So this is an inverter with a built in charger, auto transfer switch, and the AC input and output are identical to my inverter. So I'm thinking my electrical connections will be either 2 or 3 from the diagram provided to this Sun Gold inverter. Can someone help direct me here. I have most everything in now, just need to double check on the electrical connection.
 

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I put in this 3000 watt Victron inverter. Has a built in transfer switch, has power boost so if you are running off of a small inverter generator and turn on the coffee maker, it draws power from the batteries to make up the difference. Realty happy with it.
 

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Use #2. Your rv is 220 volt split phase with a neutral and a ground.
When measuring between phases (L1 & L2)you should have 220 volts.
Measuring between either phase and neutral you should have 110 volts.
The ground wires should always be tied together.
99% of all 50 amp pedestals providing rv power are 220 volt split phase with measurements as I've stated. You probably don't have anything in the rv that uses 220 but the split phase configuration makes 220 available and allows the campground to run a smaller wire.
 
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I do not understand the wiring diagram they supplied.
For a 50A shore power input you have
Hot 1 (black)
Hot 2 (red)
Neutral (white)
Ground (green).

You absolutely MUST use a neutral for a return of the Hot 1/2.

For mine, for the inverter input, since it's only 120vac 30A single phase, I used a jumper inside the ATS to jumper the H1 and H2 (on the input side) to provide 30A 120vac voltage (on the output side) to power BOTH sides of the circuit breaker panel. This is essentially how the 30A from the pedistal would be routed using a 30A to 59A Adapter.

Auto Transfer switch, how to wire (30A)
Go power

Look for YouTube videos for how to wire your make/model.
 

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I don't like their triangle and diamond shaped representation of the power source.
Since you are wiring a 30 amp alternate source you will need to install the jumper between L1 and L2 or in your case H1 and H2 ON THE LINE SIDE OF THE CONTACTOR (line that comes from your inverter). Do not install a jumper on the load side (line that goes to your rv panel). A jumper on the load side essentially connects both phases of the shore power together which will not be good.
Since your rv will be wired as split phase 220 which is actually two legs of 110, and the 30 amp inverter is only one phase of 110 you need that jumper.
 

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