Interior Wall Repair and Wallpaper Replacement?

[CraigBinFL]

While traveling last month the wall studs between the slides and rear cap broke their welds to the lower horizontal wall plate. First noticed it with the left wall, and by the time we got to our destination, the right wall stud welds had also broken. We were fortunate to find a mobile RV tech (shout out to Chad McElroy, RV Surgeon - Mobile RV & Camper Repair, Beaver Falls, PA) willing and able to address our problem over the weekend. He bolted the studs with some heavy duty corner brackets, explaining that there was too much fire danger to try to weld them without having to tear the inside walls out. He said the interior paneling was rotten and surmised it was a leak from around the window, since the lamination was still solid above the bottom of the window. The left side "end table" pulled away from the wall during the course of the repairs.

Now that we're back home, I'm trying to patch things up. I've completely pulled the table away and exposed the rotten paneling. The rot seems to arc around thew freshwater tank vent. I typically fill the tank until it overflows through this vent. Is that a more likely cause of the wood rot?

Suggestions for the inside repairs? Do I really need to replace the paneling that is hidden by the end table? Or would it enhance structural integrity if I put a new panel into that corner, fastening it to the wall plate and studs?

The rear wall has a few holes from the sofa bed bouncing around and I want to patch them, but what should I patch them with? How should I finish the wall? Paint? Replace the wallcovering/wallpaper? Where can I get matching wall covering/wallpapers for the side and rear walls?

 

[Mikendebbie]

If it was mine - I would push the “EASY” button and figure out a plywood wainscot for the rear cove. I would remove the damaged OEM wallboard to a common line (if possible) on all three sides. However - I like the cut below the window you made on the right hand side. If possible I would plan to leave the OEM wallboard around the windows. By using a wood wainscot you can finish it a complimentary or matching color, and not have to mess with wall paper.

Before doing any finish work - find the leaks and reinforce the structure like your mobile tech did.

 

[CraigBinFL]

I'm sort of thinking along those lines, too. The "cut line" is actually the interior edge of the end table. I wanted to make sure I didn’t cut anything (yet) that would show. If I limited it to that height it wouldn't be high enough to cover the hole in the back wall. Unfortunately the left end table is still tight against the wall and the carpet was installed after that panel was stapled in.

 

[Mikendebbie]

Ok - cut out the damaged OEM wall board on all 3 sides to just below the windows. Use 1/4” (??) plywood to put back on the studs, and then apply your wainscot paneling to a common height…maybe to the bottom of the rear window. The wainscot will trim around the side windows. I would consider ripping out the built-in end tables and building some new ones with open shelving if possible.

Note: I am not a carpenter craftsman, so generally I ONLY do easy stuff! I always use screws or trim screws since my use of a hammer is sketchy. I tend to use “rustic” to describe my finished products!

 

[Mikelff]

While traveling last month the wall studs between the slides and rear cap broke their welds to the lower horizontal wall plate. First noticed it with the left wall, and by the time we got to our destination, the right wall stud welds had also broken. We were fortunate to find a mobile RV tech (shout out to Chad McElroy, RV Surgeon - Mobile RV & Camper Repair, Beaver Falls, PA) willing and able to address our problem over the weekend. He bolted the studs with some heavy duty corner brackets, explaining that there was too much fire danger to try to weld them without having to tear the inside walls out. He said the interior paneling was rotten and surmised it was a leak from around the window, since the lamination was still solid above the bottom of the window. The left side "end table" pulled away from the wall during the course of the repairs.

View attachment 1943996View attachment 1943997View attachment 1943998View attachment 1944002

Now that we're back home, I'm trying to patch things up. I've completely pulled the table away and exposed the rotten paneling. The rot seems to arc around thew freshwater tank vent. I typically fill the tank until it overflows through this vent. Is that a more likely cause of the wood rot?

View attachment 1944004View attachment 1944005

Suggestions for the inside repairs? Do I really need to replace the paneling that is hidden by the end table? Or would it enhance structural integrity if I put a new panel into that corner, fastening it to the wall plate and studs?

The rear wall has a few holes from the sofa bed bouncing around and I want to patch them, but what should I patch them with? How should I finish the wall? Paint? Replace the wallcovering/wallpaper? Where can I get matching wall covering/wallpapers for the side and rear walls?

You need to take care of the window leak if you already haven’t done so. You also need to pull the carpet back and make sure you don’t have any water damage in the floor. I had a window leak in the side window of my big slide and water ran to the outside corner on the floor. The water would saturate the carpet in the corner and rotted out that corner floor wood. The wall was fine but had to replace about an 18 inch square piece of the floor. That was a pita project for sure. It is now better than the OEM floor. We didn’t notice the wet carpet because of the location and our theater seats were in that corner. I have learned to check the floors in the slides if we have a heavy rain. You might want to have those studs re welded now that you are home.

 

[CraigBinFL]

You need to take care of the window leak if you already haven’t done so. You also need to pull the carpet back and make sure you don’t have any water damage in the floor. I had a window leak in the side window of my big slide and water ran to the outside corner on the floor. The water would saturate the carpet in the corner and rotted out that corner floor wood. The wall was fine but had to replace about an 18 inch square piece of the floor. That was a pita project for sure. It is now better than the OEM floor. We didn’t notice the wet carpet because of the location and our theater seats were in that corner. I have learned to check the floors in the slides if we have a heavy rain. You might want to have those studs re welded now that you are home.

I'm not convinced it is a window leak. Wall damage was confined to the corner around the fresh tank vent, which I regularly used as an overflow indicator. I guess I now know why they say not to do that!

Having removed that end table, I checked the flooring and it is still solid. We had the sofabed along that wall, so that area was not something easily checked before, but we'll def keep an eye on it from now on.

 

[Jay & Bobbie]

Have you filled the water tank till overflowing to verify where the leak is? That's step one. Then fix the leak and check again. I like Mikendebbie idea about wall repair. Be sure to insulate well also.

 

[CraigBinFL]

That's a good idea while I have it all open. I'm juggling several major issues with the level-up and entry door at the moment. Without any near term travel plans, this repair is lowest of those priorities.