Holding Tank Sensors

Ross from Canada

New Member
Joined
Jun 8, 2023
Posts
4
Location
Osoyoos
Hi,

I am new to this group, so I apologize if this has been answered before. I searched, but did not find anything. I have a 2022 Montana 3781rl and the grey and black holding tanks always read 2/3 full after they have been emptied. I also flush the blank tank after emptying every time. Any one else have this issue?
 
The sensors soon get gunked up and fail to report the level accurately. Here is a current discussion on the this topic:
https://www.montanaowners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=89273
You will learn how your habits affect the filling of the tanks. The black tank "burps" when it is close to full, the kitchen and shower tanks back up into the sink/shower to say they are full.

Some use a special concoction to help keep the sensors clean, others replace the sensors with an external See Level gauge system.
 
As Carl states, super common problem, and mine do exactly the same thing. I have a 2022 and did everything correctly out of the gate and they still started reading incorrectly within weeks, even hired a professional company at the rally last year to super clean the tanks…no difference. Super frustrating.

I am now seriously considering adding Sea Level gauges (just need to find someone that knows how to properly drop underbelly material and install, I hoped to have Affinity do while I’m at rally this year but called them and they have never done before!). Since we plan on doing a lot more boondocking accuracy of guages more important.

If anyone has a good recommendation for installation please let me know.
 
As Carl states, super common problem, and mine do exactly the same thing. I have a 2022 and did everything correctly out of the gate and they still started reading incorrectly within weeks, even hired a professional company at the rally last year to super clean the tanks…no difference. Super frustrating.

I am now seriously considering adding Sea Level gauges (just need to find someone that knows how to properly drop underbelly material and install, I hoped to have Affinity do while I’m at rally this year but called them and they have never done before!). Since we plan on doing a lot more boondocking accuracy of guages more important.

If anyone has a good recommendation for installation please let me know.

Dropping the coroplast and re-installing is actually an easy task.
Here's a thread with pretty good detail and pictures. I do not have the sea level guages but have read they are simple to install as well.
https://www.montanaowners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=88760
 
Thanks Jay! I had watched a video of someone who installed that and it looks pretty easy. I had forgotten about that sensor until you mentioned it.
I have the propane tank sensors already from Mopeka too. I may look into just installing that for the fresh tank.
 
Thanks Jay! I had watched a video of someone who installed that and it looks pretty easy. I had forgotten about that sensor until you mentioned it.
I have the propane tank sensors already from Mopeka too. I may look into just installing that for the fresh tank.

I installed a round hatch into the underbelly material so I can access the sensor. The battery has to be changed periodically. I did have issues getting the device to stick using their stock adhesive. After trying epoxy, I finally found old school contact cement
 
I took someone’s advice on here and empty all my tanks before leaving a campsite, then add about 2-3 minutes of clean water to them all while traveling to the next Rv park. My tanks sensors are still working after 3 yrs of full timing but we move almost weekly. No chemicals added just clean water. No magic just routine
 
Black tank

I recently bought a new to me 2018 arctic fox. A box of happy camper tank treatment was already in it. I figured I would use it up. This is great stuff. No odors once so ever out of the tank it cleans nice you can also use it in your gray tank to get rid of the stink. Too bad it’s not allowed to be sold in California.
 
Good morning -

I agree with Carl on every point he made to include how to tell when the tanks are getting full. I have success with the cleaning of the sensors, but it last until the next trip. The product I use is Tethford Tank Blaster, and I use it once a year. I follow the instructions, except, I do leave the product in the tank a bit longer than recommended. Works great for that one flush, but I am satisfied the tanks are completely clean!

I have considered the replacement of the sensors, but I have yet to find any that I believe will work well. And, I always as myself the question, Why Bother? I know when my tanks are filling up based on my observations, the sounds I hear - burping, and past experiences.

Cheers
 
We have a new to us 2018 3791RD with an InCommand Pro Plus control. I understand that the gray tank and black tank get stuff on them but our fresh water tank is full and shows that it is empty. Is this because of the tank monitors or the control system?
 
We have a new to us 2018 3791RD with an InCommand Pro Plus control. I understand that the gray tank and black tank get stuff on them but our fresh water tank is full and shows that it is empty. Is this because of the tank monitors or the control system?


A couple years ago, we had the same issue with the fresh water tank showing empty when it was full. I pulled back the coroplast under the tank and found the white (common) wire was broken at the splice at the heavier wire connects to the thinner wire that goes to the common probe in the tank. I spliced it back together and the level reads correctly now.
 
If you want long-lasting and reliable alternative the Garnet Seelevel Products are the way to go.
They sensor strips are mounted from the out side which eliminates stuff clogging on them.
I did install them on our previous unit and they worked flawless for 4 years.

If I had to install them in our new unit I would install the optional 2. Display in the wet-bay or the bluetooth version for easier monitoring during flushing.

Here is there product selector according to your number of tanks etc.
https://www.garnetinstruments.com/selection-tool/

Installation was a diy and took me a good 3/4 day with running the wires.

Mike
 
no 3rd a/c..... Mini split

The sensors that come on all campers are a bad joke played on buyers. The See Level 2 sensors that stick on the outside of the tank are the only real sensors that work and are not affected by the crap in the tanks, work forever, no maintenance or frustrations, and are easy to put on. You don`t have to drop the coroplast just cut a 1ft. square on 3 sides in the location of the old sensors stick on the sensors connect the wires to the old wires and tape up the hole. The other part is just as easy. Who cares the cost if it works it`s worth it.
 
Last edited:
hi what camper u have ? we have 3761fl and dont know what size to buy . the strips . thank you scott and do u have incommad and do they work with incommad
 
You can keep your sensors functioning correctly, but it does take an amount of effort to do so. In time, you will get a "feel" when it's time to dump your tanks and won't depend on the sensors at all.

Still, it's nice to have them working, right?

Your fresh water tank sensors will work the best, and most of the time.

The black black tank needs cleaning. I have found the best cleaning happens with a black tank wand that attaches to the end of a garden hose, and the wand is pushed down through the bottom of the toilet, water turned on, and then it sprays everything down inside the tank. This works well, but does take some extra effort.

Another way to keep the tank sensors working is to dump completely before hitting the road. Then add a few gallons of water to each tank, a bit of laundry soap, or some dishwashing liquid and hit the road. The sloshing on the road will help clean them. Once you reach your destination, dump the tanks to remove all the "stuff" that was clinging to the sides, top, and bottom.

If you have a black tank built in "flusher" this helps keep the black tank clean, but almost never cleans off the sensors inside the tank.

In the end, you'll eventually learn by actual use how often and when it's necessary to dump. I go by the sound. When the black tank is empty and water is running when it's flushing, the water hits the bottom of the tank. It has a very distinct "pitch". As the water rises in the tank, the "pitch" gets higher (changes) and that my best clue.

If you are on a full hook up campsite, you never, never, never want to leave the black tank valve open and let it drain on it's own. It takes water to move the solids. If the valve is open, the solids will stay behind and the small of the water won't be enough to push it out. The solids begin to stick and stick and stick, creating a dam. We call this "the dreaded poop pyramid", which can actually clog up your black tank and reduce it's capacity greatly. So, always dump with a full tank.

Another option is to learn to how "backflush" using the grey water from the shower/sink/washing machine. (this is another subject). The backwashing process is magnificent for flushing out the contents in the black tank that "stay behind." But again, backflushing will not clean the sensors. To clean the sensors, the wand down the toilet is the best method.
 

Try RV LIFE Pro Free for 7 Days

  • New Ad-Free experience on this RV LIFE Community.
  • Plan the best RV Safe travel with RV LIFE Trip Wizard.
  • Navigate with our RV Safe GPS mobile app.
  • and much more...
Try RV LIFE Pro Today
Back
Top