Entry Door Shock Bracket pulling out

[Jlb27537]

Hello,

On my '14 3150RL the entry door has a shock thing bracket on the top of the entry door. It has 3 screws that attach it to the entry door. About every week or so the 3 screws are loose. It is only a matter of time before the screws will not tighten.

The aluminum door frame is just too weak to hold the screws. A plate as suggested on the compartment doors would look like S,,,. Bigger screws will make a bigger hole, but? The door, I do not think, has the interior strength to handle a thru bolt method of attaching the bracket on the door.

I need some ideas. I can always remove the shock thing and use the time proven thingy on the side of the RV and door, but I kinda like the shock thing. Maybe a nut-sert thing in the door frame?

Any thoughts appreciated. Thanks Jim

 

[Carl n Susan]

I had the same problem with mine. The first day in Yuma (where the wind blows everyday) the screws pulled out. It was under warranty and the dealer used Riv-nuts in the door frame to correct it. Two years later the bracket is still as firm as when they installed it. Yours has to be under warranty. Have the manufacturer/dealer fix it.

The other solution is to drill the holes all the way through the door, install a spacer equal to the door depth, and run 1/4" x 20 bolts with Nylock nuts through there to hold everything. That quick and dirty fix also solves the problem.

I am pretty sure I posted on this topic in the past. I will see if I can find it.

 

[DQDick]

With a new rig I would for sure make the dealer fix it.

 

[Overlord]

I think the cylinder doo-dad connected to the entry door would drive me nuts just being there in the first place.

Maybe I'm just used to having a free-swinging door, but I think that would be one "improvement" that I would just remove completely and use the old school, hold-the-door-open contraption that we have all grown up with.

 

[dunrovin1955]

Hi Jim, my 2014 3850 comes with the friction hinge on the doors. So far they are great,no gas shock at the top of the door.Brent

 

[FL-Joe]

How about removing the three screws and putting a little silicon adhesive (high quality) in the holes and then replacing the same screws. Just a thought before you make a modification or go to the trouble of running back to the dealer.

 

[Soldierboy]

The screws for the strut on my entry door also stripped out after coming loose too many times to count. The dealer were I bought my trailer replaced the screws with a type of rivet and it has held strong since.
I guess the down side is will have to drill out rivits if the strut ever fails, but at least I don't have to deal with those screws!

 

[Jlb27537]

quote:Originally posted by Carl n Susan

I had the same problem with mine. The first day in Yuma (where the wind blows everyday) the screws pulled out. It was under warranty and the dealer used Riv-nuts in the door frame to correct it. Two years later the bracket is still as firm as when they installed it. Yours has to be under warranty. Have the manufacturer/dealer fix it.

The other solution is to drill the holes all the way through the door, install a spacer equal to the door depth, and run 1/4" x 20 bolts with Nylock nuts through there to hold everything. That quick and dirty fix also solves the problem.

I am pretty sure I posted on this topic in the past. I will see if I can find it.

I am in S Texas so a bit of wind here also. The riv-nut sounds like the fix. I'll follow up with local Keystone dealer (Hoover RV). Presently there is no "Montana" dealer in S Texas. Gooding was, not now.

http://www.rivet-nut.com/Rivnut_Fasteners.asp Might just buy a small kit and do it my self. I have used them before. Don't think a pop rivet would hold.

Thanks Jim

 

[dieselguy]

Overlord ... You get used to the feature on the 3150's as the front pass through storage compartment door is too close to the entry door to be able to pin it back to the sidewall like most other RVs. It swings open over 90 degrees, so it really isn't an issue for most. I had the "loose screw syndrome" as well. I fabbed a aluminum spacer block that fits behind the rain gutter and the shock mount. It keeps the screws and shock bracket from crushing the rain gutter causing the screws to become loose each time you retighten the screws. It's worked with the original screws for going on 3 years now. I will say though ... rivnuts sound like a good alternative fix.

 

[Jlb27537]

quote:Originally posted by dieselguy

Overlord ... You get used to the feature on the 3150's as the front pass through storage compartment door is too close to the entry door to be able to pin it back to the sidewall like most other RVs. It swings open over 90 degrees, so it really isn't an issue for most. I had the "loose screw syndrome" as well. I fabbed a aluminum spacer block that fits behind the rain gutter and the shock mount. It keeps the screws and shock bracket from crushing the rain gutter causing the screws to become loose each time you retighten the screws. It's worked with the original screws for going on 3 years now. I will say though ... rivnuts sound like a good alternative fix.

The bracket that is coming loose is the one on the door. The one on the side wall/rain gutter is OK. The screws that are coming loose go into the door interior thru the frame on the door and do not stick out to hit anything.

Carl n Susan. Do you know what size rivnut they used?

Thanks Jim

 

[Carl n Susan]

quote:Originally posted by jlb27537

...Carl n Susan. Do you know what size rivnut they used?...

Thanks Jim

No I am sorry, but I don't know the size. I would check but I am out of town for the holidays and the trailer isn't. I would guess they are somewhere around the size of a #8 or #10 screw. Maybe even a 1/4 x 20 although that might be too large.

P.S. Once you get used to the strut you won't go back. Not all change is bad. In this case not having to fool with the plastic latch that holds the door open is priceless.

 

[dieselguy]

Sorry ... I can't read ... . I've not had an issue with the door brkt. When I first owned my 3150 ... I had to have the door replaced as the shock that originally came with it was too strong and opening and closing the door sprung the hinges. You'd thought that all they would have done was replace the hinges, but the door hardware isn't available separately. The shock they put on with the new door was considerably lighter on the compression stroke. I'd guess the rivnuts would be in the #10 to #12 size.

 

[Jlb27537]

Thanks Carl n Susan,

I'll take the bracket off after Christmas and go to the hardware store for a screw fitting. I can order rivnuts on Ebay for $5 and I'll install them myself. Easier than dealing with Hoover, packing up the RV, burning $10 worth of diesel to get it there.

Thanks Jim

 

[jcurtis934]

I initially used larger screws and silicon since the strut pulled out the too small 8/32 screws used at the factory...AND I had very big holes thanks to the strut pulling the bracket off the door!!! I changed out the strut to one with a lower rating since I knew that the larger screws was ONLY a temporary fix. AND now it is time to re-do it again so the "riv-nut" sounds like it could be a real fix. I will just have to use big ones...the holes left over from the initial bracket rip-off (thanks to that monster strut and door quality) meant I had to use big honkers. John

 

[Sheepdog-MOC]

quote:Originally posted by Carl n Susan

I had the same problem with mine. The first day in Yuma (where the wind blows everyday) the screws pulled out. It was under warranty and the dealer used Riv-nuts in the door frame to correct it. Two years later the bracket is still as firm as when they installed it. Yours has to be under warranty. Have the manufacturer/dealer fix it.

The other solution is to drill the holes all the way through the door, install a spacer equal to the door depth, and run 1/4" x 20 bolts with Nylock nuts through there to hold everything. That quick and dirty fix also solves the problem.

I am pretty sure I posted on this topic in the past. I will see if I can find it.

My bracket pulled out of the door and I used bigger screws to refasten it. Lasted a short while and pulled out again. I then used bolts as suggested above and it is now very secure. I also replaced the stock 20lb strut with a 13lb one to reduce the forces on the bracket.

 

[Ski Doo]

Paul Harvey would recommend JB Weld.
Once you stat using the product you will be hooked, literally.
Just remove your screw and squeegee the hole full
and reinsert the screw. At worst you will be out a
couple bucks.
But I hope it works for you.

 

[DonandBonnie]

In the door itself I replaced the screws with stainless steel bolts and locknuts that are about the same diameter as the screws. You have to drill through the door, but that's not difficult. Don't use carbon steel bolts because they will eventually rust and leave streaks down the door. The screws on the trailer body end were also working loose. There is no way to install a bolt there. We took the trailer to the dealership where they filled the old holes and drilled new for a heavier screw. The thought is that the body screws started to work out because of the motion from the door screws that I didn't catch fast enough. The dealer feels that if the door end is kept tight, the body end will not pull out. Time will tell if his theory is correct.