Disk brake conversion

Which system did you install?
Titan Brakerite
Kodiak Hub ,and Rotor assembly .
As said in a previous post I had automotive pads when I had to replace them , I did get them at Auto zone , not O'Reilly's . They were Duralast MKD215 part # . Cheaper than going with Kodiak pads . I was assuming they were automotive ,but now I don't remember , it was 5 years ago .
 
How are the costs for replacement parts (shoes, disk rotors)?
I have read replacement parts are outrageously expensive.
After looking the rotors are pretty expensive , they are a one piece Hub ,and rotor assembly ,not just the rotor . Kodiak like I have are 278.01 at E-Trailer ,they maybe found cheaper elsewhere .
 
2007 3400RL. Came with "minimal" axles and 80 psi tires, and plastic bushing shackles. Decided early on I wanted disc brakes and heavier axles. When I did it the difference in price between just the disc brake conversion and replacing the axles with heavier axles and 110 psi tires was less than $300. Just my $.02
 
I'm thinking of making the switch on my 3121. Where did you buy the kit? Etrailer? If so, do you recall the kit part number? If I measured the wheel studs correctly, they are 1/2"? Do you recall the bearing numbers? Hope trip went well.

Thanks
Contact Performance Trailer Braking (see post 3). They will sell you a kit or a do a complete install. I think they provide the best service and advice before and after the sale and they also support Montana rallies. You should upgrade to 9/16" (8k hubs) studs when you do the conversion; worked fine with my 2017 wheels. My kit was a Titan/Kodiak; both owned by Dexter now. I optioned for a Hydrastar 1600 EOH controller; all metal and smaller footprint. My calipers are standard automotive calipers and I buy inexpensive brake pads from Autozone, O'Reilly, Napa, etc. Mine use the same pads as a '95 Buick or Olds; easy to find.
 
Contact Performance Trailer Braking (see post 3). They will sell you a kit or a do a complete install. I think they provide the best service and advice before and after the sale and they also support Montana rallies. You should upgrade to 9/16" (8k hubs) studs when you do the conversion; worked fine with my 2017 wheels. My kit was a Titan/Kodiak; both owned by Dexter now. I optioned for a Hydrastar 1600 EOH controller; all metal and smaller footprint. My calipers are standard automotive calipers and I buy inexpensive brake pads from Autozone, O'Reilly, Napa, etc. Mine use the same pads as a '95 Buick or Olds; easy to find.

Same here on pads , as said in a previous post , Duralast MKD215 part # . Although I went 7K Kodiak with 9/16 studs , no need to go I felt with 8K on mine at 15,500 GVWR 7K was adequate as far as I was concerned . I believe most Montana fifth wheels start at about 16,500 GVWR , probably okay on the heavier fifth wheels .
 
I did not know you could get 7K hubs with 9/16 studs, but, in any case, I have the 8k hubs with larger bearings and 9/16 studs. My entire kit, including the Hydrastar controller was $1600 in 2018. Last time I bought pads (MKD215 semi-metallic) they were $30 per axle. I did the install myself.
 
I bought my kit in 2023 with 8K hubs, 9/16 studs and upgraded timken bearings for $3200 from Performance Trailer Braking.
 
I did not know you could get 7K hubs with 9/16 studs, but, in any case, I have the 8k hubs with larger bearings and 9/16 studs. My entire kit, including the Hydrastar controller was $1600 in 2018. Last time I bought pads (MKD215 semi-metallic) they were $30 per axle. I did the install myself.
If I had to guess the only difference would be the bearings , both having 9/16 studs . Price sounds about right $1600 what I paid . If anybody is interested ,check out Premium RV Parts , there may be some savings on the hub, and rotor assembly . I am seeing the assembly calipers , bearings etc . If I would need the hub ,and rotor , which is a one piece assembly I'd go with them .
 
I think everything has doubled since 2016; except my bank account. I forgot to mention; I did not use the bearings that came with my kit; I sourced Timken bearings separately. Note that not all Timken bearings are made in the USA; but that's a different topic.
 
I think everything has doubled since 2016; except my bank account. I forgot to mention; I did not use the bearings that came with my kit; I sourced Timken bearings separately. Note that not all Timken bearings are made in the USA; but that's a different topic.
You got that right . Yes , I’ve seen the discussions on Timken , and yes that’s a different topic . :)
 
I installed the DeeMax disk brake kit from etrailer on my 2020 Montana 3121RL last year. I felt I was having to adjust my drum brakes constantly and they just weren’t stopping me very well. I was able to complete the installation in a day and what a difference. My wife and I are completing a 5000 mile road trip and I am wondering why all trailer don’t come with disk brakes!
We have a 2021 3121RL and would like to upgrade to disc. Was looking at Deemax brakes also. Which controller did you use Deemax or other? Did you install that in the front battery compartment if so did you have to make a mounting bracket or bolt to the floor near the battery? Did you run hard or flex lines? And assume you ran them on the outside of the under pinning or coraplast? Thanks!
 
We have a 2021 3121RL and would like to upgrade to disc. Was looking at Deemax brakes also. Which controller did you use Deemax or other? Did you install that in the front battery compartment if so did you have to make a mounting bracket or bolt to the floor near the battery? Did you run hard or flex lines? And assume you ran them on the outside of the under pinning or coraplast? Thanks!
I would use the DeeMax pump. It is the same pump (Deutche Hydrapro) that I used on my 2021 3121RL. It was at the time and may still be the fastest pump available. I Stumbled upon it because all other pumps were unavailable back then do to supply chain issues during covid.
My current trailer has DeeMax brakes because that is what comes with MORRyde independent suspension, but Riverstone puts Dexter pumps on the trailer and I can barely feel the lag but it’s definitely there. I didn’t experience any issues with the Hydrapro.
I’ll post some pictures of my install in the 3121 that should answer some of those questions.
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Had our conversion from pad to disc several years ago while attending an Escapee's Rally down in Missouri. Performance Braking did it and did an outstanding job. They have mobile tech that are all over the country. After they put the disc's on we took our Monte out for a test drive. I was driving and the tech in the passenger seat. While going down a busy street a young man pulled out infront of the truck and Monte. Had to do a "panic stop" and locked up all four on the truck and the Monte leaving rubber on the street. Missed the young man by about 6". Tech looked over at me and says "Well what do you think of your new brakes?" I looked over at him and said "Best choice I've made in years!" There have been several other times the disc's have saved me on the interstate passing an on ramp too. I will never have anything but disc's in any future units also. I don't remember the cost but Performance gave me one heck of a deal and they have been at the National Fall Rally over the past few years and do a great job and always recognize me when I stop by their booth. Great people and great business!
 
Thanks M&K for the great photos! That explains a lot. Did you use a line kit and did the bulkhead fitting that is beside the Hydropro transitioning from the flex line to hard line come with it?
 
I used a kit from Performance Trailer Brake. Everything was there except the pump, which could not be sourced at the time due to Covid. Keystone couldn’t even get pumps. As a result there was a period of time during Covid that the legacy’s were being produced with electric brakes.
I made the bracket that the pump was sitting on and changed a couple fittings on the lines because I wanted to route the lines the way I did, and I cut and flared some line because the kit is sent with long pieces of line that would have been too long and I didn’t want to coil up line.
 
I figure while I’m updating the brakes I may as well add X-factor crossmembers. Not sure if they will work with the gas line running along the spring hangers on the driver side. Anyone ran into an issue with this?
 

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I figure while I’m updating the brakes I may as well add X-factor crossmembers. Not sure if they will work with the gas line running along the spring hangers on the driver side. Anyone ran into an issue with this?
I just did all three of my hangers with standard X-Factor braces and I too have a gas line in the exact same spot. Cleared the line by about half inch.
 
I just did all three of my hangers with standard X-Factor braces and I too have a gas line in the exact same spot. Cleared the line by about half inch.
Thanks bricklayer! Would you have any pictures to share of the X factor installed next to the gas pipe? I may have another obstruction on the forward most hangers. There’s a galley drain pipe that is very close. That one may not be possible. Our Monty is a 2021 3121RL.
 

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Here’s a recent thread on that. You use the drop-down x-factor to clear the plumbing line. Post #2.
 

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