Converting to Disk Brakes

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Members shared their experiences converting Montana fifth wheels to disc brakes, focusing on brands like Kodiak, DeeMax, and Titan. Kodiak kits, especially with 8k wheel ends and ceramic pads, received positive feedback for performance and ease of driveway installation. DeeMax kits, now used by Morryde, were praised for their HydroPro pump speed, but some reported issues with brake pads and pumps after storage, as highlighted in YouTube reviews. Several RVers recommended using coated steel...
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Baldicon

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 28, 2013
Posts
858
Location
Chattanooga
We have a 2019 Montana 3121RL. Need new brakes so now is the time to convert to disc brakes. I will be doing the work myself. Would like to hear from you guys and girls who have made this switch, and primarily ask which brand you went with and what you liked/not liked about the brand. And would you go a different route if you could have a do-over.

Thanks in advance.
 
On our Montana, I went with Kodiak brakes and 8k wheel ends (larger outer bearings and 9/16”studs) using the 250 ceramic pads and a Deutche HydroPro pump.
It worked out great. Did the install in my driveway in 2 days.
From what I hear now, the new Dee Max kits get very good reviews and they use the HydroPro pump, which is or was at the time, the fastest pump on the market. FWIW, I understand Morryde is using Dee Max on their I.S. Disc installs. I was hoping my new rig was going to have Dee Max because it has I.S. but it has a Dexter pump.
Also, I used coated steel lines as opposed to some kits that use hoses. I think steel is the way to go.
I kind of had to piece my brake job together because I did it during Covid and no one could provide everything I needed in a kit because of supply chain issues. In the long run I think it ended up being better overall because of it.
 
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This guy got Demax brakes put on his Montana (Jonesin to Go youtube channel). I would love to put them on my rig.


This is another youtuber we follow - Craig & Victoria of Wild RV Life. Craig installed Demax on his Brinkley. The Brinkley was in storage for several months. When they picked it up recently they experienced trouble with the brake pads and the hydra-pro pump. I believe he got new pads and a new hydraboost. This video shows the issues.

 
On our Montana, I went with Kodiak brakes and 8k wheel ends (larger outer bearings and 9/16”studs) using the 250 ceramic pads and a Deutche HydroPro pump.
It worked out great. Did the install in my driveway in 2 days.
From what I hear now, the new Dee Max kits get very good reviews and they use the HydroPro pump, which is or was at the time, the fastest pump on the market. FWIW, I understand Morryde is using Dee Max on their I.S. Disc installs. I was hoping my new rig was going to have Dee Max because it has I.S. but it has a Dexter pump.
Also, I used coated steel lines as opposed to some kits that use hoses. I think steel is the way to go.
I kind of had to piece my brake job together because I did it during Covid and no one could provide everything I needed in a kit because of supply chain issues. In the long run I think it ended up being better overall because of it.
I went a little different , 13" 7K Premier Disc End Kit ( Kodiak ) 8-6.5 BC 9/16 studs . saw no need with my fifth wheel with a 15,500 GVWR to go 8K . Titan on the rest .
 
I was all set to convert to disc brakes on my 2013 3100RL. Did all the research, decided on brand and misc. parts. I happened upon a comment in a forum about checking compatibility of my OEM brake controller. My 2014 Chevy 3500 controller does not support electric over hydraulic brakes. It would require either an adapter module (about $250) or wire in a different controller in the truck. I guess some Fords have the same issue. Could not find enough satisfactory info about the adapters and really didn't want to tackle rewiring a brake controller to override in built-in OEM controller. The electric brakes still work, although not as well as discs. I just travel a little more carefully and have $4k more in the bank.
 
I went a little different , 13" 7K Premier Disc End Kit ( Kodiak ) 8-6.5 BC 9/16 studs . saw no need with my fifth wheel with a 15,500 GVWR to go 8K . Titan on the rest .
Curious, have you ever weighed your rv?
 
We have a 2019 Montana 3121RL. Need new brakes so now is the time to convert to disc brakes. I will be doing the work myself. Would like to hear from you guys and girls who have made this switch, and primarily ask which brand you went with and what you liked/not liked about the brand. And would you go a different route if you could have a do-over.

Thanks in advance.
My dry weight is 12,200 . Loaded I’m usually between 14000- 14500. These days closer to 14k . I’ve quit carrying a lot of stuff that just seems to never get used . 2000 lbs doesn’t take long to load in these fifth wheels .
 
I was all set to convert to disc brakes on my 2013 3100RL. Did all the research, decided on brand and misc. parts. I happened upon a comment in a forum about checking compatibility of my OEM brake controller. My 2014 Chevy 3500 controller does not support electric over hydraulic brakes. It would require either an adapter module (about $250) or wire in a different controller in the truck. I guess some Fords have the same issue. Could not find enough satisfactory info about the adapters and really didn't want to tackle rewiring a brake controller to override in built-in OEM controller. The electric brakes still work, although not as well as discs. I just travel a little more carefully and have $4k more in the bank.
I have a 2012 3500 silverado and I did the conversion. No you do not need a adapter or wire in a new controller. All you have to do is use one of your brake magnets from your camper and wire it in parallel to the hydraulic actuator. Your trucks factory controller like mine is looking for the proper resistance from electric brakes. With the one magnet in parallel, it is happy and will work perfectly. You will be removing the old brake system but will retain one of your magnets mounted somewhere in your front compartment near the hydraulic actuator. Just remember to wire it in parallel.
 

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