Can you upgrade breaker boxes?

[Desert5er]

Can you upgrade distribution panels?

My residential 12v refrigerator died and the cost to replace is over $4k. I’m wondering if it’s possible to upgrade the distribution panel to allow more circuits so I can go to a traditional residential refrigerator. Has anyone done this? My current panel has 2 x 50 amp main + 12 branches. Does anyone even make an AC/DC panel with more than 12 branches?

 

[BB_TX]

You should be able to find one of your existing branch circuits lightly loaded enough to power your fridge. Or move a small load from one breaker to another to free up a breaker.

No reason to have more than 12 branch circuits on a 50 amp service. That’s 6 sub breakers on each 50 amp leg. Even if each breaker is only 10 amps that exceeds the 50 amp leg. Fortunately each breaker is normally not loaded near the max rating.

 

[Bourbon County]

I seriously doubt you'll find anything in that configuration with more than 12 branch circuits. You don't need an additional circuit; modern residential refrigerators with the 134a refrigerant are a very low amp draw, 3.0-3.5 amp range for a 22-25 cu ft model. The rigs that come with residential fridges only have 12 circuits available, they have to work within those limitations. A good place to start would be if your rig is wired and plumbed for laundry and you don't use it, there's your circuit. I believe fishing a wire will be enough of a challenge, if the fridge is located in a slide it will be doubly interesting.

 

[BSHGTO]

to easy

My residential 12v refrigerator died and the cost to replace is over $4k. I’m wondering if it’s possible to upgrade the distribution panel to allow more circuits so I can go to a traditional residential refrigerator. Has anyone done this? My current panel has 2 x 50 amp main + 12 branches. Does anyone even make an AC/DC panel with more than 12 branches?

Just double tap the main breaker on the load side and add a 6 circuit panel from home depot in the storage bay.
Yeh, yeh I know but it`s just a camper not a nuclear facility.

 

[Desert5er]

Thank you all for the replies. Still weighing my options but this is great information and gives me more to consider.

 

[BB_TX]

You probably have outlets near the refrigerator space. With luck, that circuit may be lightly loaded enough to simply tap off it for the new fridge.

 

[LeftOverParts]

Keep in mind your resi fridge circuit will need to be tied into an inverted circuit for when you travel.

 

[RMcNeal]

If you do not have a washer/dryer, you could re-purpose one of those 20 amp circuits for the fridge.

 

[Daryles]

What LeftOverParts said about an inverter for travel.
This is a typical inverter, transfer switch setup for a residential Fridge.
A 1,000w inverter, small transfer switch, cut off switch and fuse.

 

[Desert5er]

I do have W/D, so those circuits are unavailable, but we're also wired for a 3rd AC, on its own branch. We were thinking about installing the 3rd this year, but repurposing that branch may be a better way to go. I just need to look at my inverter setup to see if it will accommodate it or if I'll need to make changes there.

Thanks again everyone.

 

[C&P RV]

Here's a photo of my panel. Our res fridge is on the 20 amp "inverter" circuit just to the left of the 2- 50 amp mains. That circuit feeds a 120V outlet under the counter next to the stove in mine, but your fridge is adjacent to the pantry in the slide. Unless Keystone wired a 120v outlet in that slide, you have another "degree of difficulty" to add a flexible AC line under the slide that's tied to the inverter. Those typically run off the panel using Romex that connect to a 12 gauge "Molex" connecter with 12 gauge stranded copper to accommodate the slide movement. You should see an example of this under the dinette slide feeding the AC outlets in that slide. If you have the Magnum CSW2012-X inverter you should have sufficient power to run a res fridge without any issues when not connected to shore power. Good luck!!

 

[scootsk]

My residential fridge is on the bedroom circuit, that’s the factory configuration. Only have a clock radio and lamp plugged in the bedroom never an issue.

 

[LeftOverParts]

From another post, looks like you have a 3491FO. If this is the floor plan, your main TV and a couple bedroom circuits are probably on the inverter. If the fridge area isn’t prewired, looks like you’ll be able to tap into an inverted line that runs to one of those or runs between them. You might have others - on our unit, the inverted outlets have a sticker on them that states that.

The other pic shows the energy sticker that came with our side-by-side resi fridge. If you do the math, the average hourly wattage is about 63 watts. Of course higher when it cycles but doesn’t run for long once cooled.

 

[rcc now]

The breakers can be changed to mini-breakers which will give you more circuits. This will give you an extra circuit to use for your new residential refrigerator.

 

[pitman44]

My residential 12v refrigerator died and the cost to replace is over $4k. I’m wondering if it’s possible to upgrade the distribution panel to allow more circuits so I can go to a traditional residential refrigerator. Has anyone done this? My current panel has 2 x 50 amp main + 12 branches. Does anyone even make an AC/DC panel with more than 12 branches?

I don't see a mention of the fridge model, but if it's an electric/LP traditional RV fridge you have a 120v receptacle in the back of the unit. The electric side uses 120vac to power a heating element.

 

[jkxtreme]

Our 3901RK has a residential GE fridge that is powered from a recpt. connected to the inverter. The inverter setup is nice because the batteries power the fridge when not connected to AC power such as when traveling between campgrounds, but when connected to AC, the inverter acts as a battery charger and simply passes the AC power through to the fridge. Most likely your unit will not have an inverter large enough to handle the fridg, but you can add an inverter. On our boat we powered the fridge from an inverter with a separate battery set. When plugged into AC power the inverter acted like a battery charger and pass through circuit, but when not plugged in, the inverter converted battery voltage to 120 vac to power the fridge. In my opinion, adding a separate battery and inverter is the best method, but it is a little more costly. Follow the advice of some of the above postings to find a lightly loaded existing breaker to use as the AC source feeding the inverter. Just make sure the inverter you choose is a 'pure sine wave' inverter. The '6 step' and 'modified sine wave' inverters are less expensive but will ultimately damage your fridge.

 

[Desert5er]

Thanks everyone. There’s still a chance my 12v fridge can be repaired so holding off on doing anything with the electrical just yet. Based on what I’ve heard from you all, my 2k watt inverter should be plenty and I can tap into that existing circuit if it comes to that. I appreciate all the input and education.