Anode rod

[Jamric]

2022 3121 rl need anode rod , anyone know the length and thread diameter of the rod looks like 3/4

 

[ScaryPapa]

I have the same year and model 5'er. Replaced it last spring. It is 3/4". It wasn't even half way corroded. I replaced it with the Suburban model. Sorry don't remember the length.

 

[Daryles]

Here you go.

ONENESS 369 Rv Magnesium Anode Rod 2-Pack for RV Water Heater - Compatible with Suburban Models, Ensures Longevity, 9.25" x 3/4" NPT [amazon]

Water heater cleaning
I cleaned the anode rod with a wire brush (it was still in good shape). I cleaned the tank threads as good as I could with a wire toothbrush. Not good enough. Bought a Hansen 3/4"-14 NPT tap from True Value hardware (made in USA). https://www.acehardware.com/departments/tools/hand-tools/taps-and-dies/21560
Ran it through the threads GENTLY!! Just one 1/4 turn past finger tight. Dont run it all the way through. It's a tapered fit to make it water tight.
Cleaned it again with a toothbrush.
Flushed the tank with the Camco water heater tank flusher. Works great!. I Use a vinyl tube attached to a wet/dry vacuum and sweep around inside the tank.
Got a lot of sediment out. 1 year old RV.
Wrapped teflon tape around the annod rod and put it back in. And yes it does stick out a little bit. Filled the tank and checked for leaks. Good to go.

When draining the tank, I use a "Water Bandit". Remove the anode rod and quickly screw in the water bandit then put a hose in the water bandit to drain the water away so you are not standing in a puddle of water while you work on it. After you have the hose in the water bandit, open the pressure relief valve.

 

[BB_TX]

I used the exact same procedure as Daryl, except the Water Bandit.

I will add that when installing the new anode rod, with teflon taped threads, do not over tighten it. Finger tight followed by a quarter to half turn with a wrench is about enough. And check for leaks afterward. Pipe threads do not need to be tightened much to seal.

 

[Big Ed-THOR]

Try and buy the same as your unit but there are some after markets a little smaller

 

[bobbecky]

This is the perfect replacement for the Suburban water heaters. It is an upgrade from the original and has a stainless steel rod in the middle of the anode. It also comes with the threads pre wrapped with Teflon tape. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08WRF4L25/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[BB_TX]

As an additional note, stick with the magnesium rod. I tried the aluminum/zinc type one time. After about 3 years it still looked almost brand new, indicating it wasn't doing much in the way of sacrificial protection. Went back to magnesium.

 

[Mark77]

I took mine out. I do still have it in case I ever change my mind.

My issue was water was stinking all of the time. Since I removed the anode rod, no more smell. I should mention that the rig sits a lot as I am a part timer at this point. I drain it every time I am not going to use it for a week. I actually put a 3/4" ball valve in that fitting to drain faster.

I know I might be shortening the life of my 20 year old heater, but that's a chance I'll have to take!

 

[BB_TX]

Magnesium rods will sometimes cause the odor whereas aluminum will not. But I never had the odor problem. Probably has to do with local water. Aluminum may be a better choice for you.

From Suburban web site:

Magnesium anode rods are great sacrificial rods as they generate higher voltage but this in turn assists in them deteriorating faster. Magnesium rods are what also cause the rotten egg smell inside of your coach but the magnesium also has health benefits from consumption.

Aluminum rods will deteriorate the slowest as they are not as conductive and will help prevent the rotten egg smell inside the coach.