Anatomy Of Our First Cross Country Road Trip!

[Mark77]

To start following up with my observations about big long trips, at least for a part time traveller who has never done it before!

First off, my posts may be a little more sporadic now as this retired guy is back at work in one facet of my life that has never really left me. I work for a pretty big farming operation, over 6K acres and they need me. It is a 3rd generation family farm and I have been involved there for over 30 years. This job is a labor of love and getting equipment ready for spring work is demanding of my time.

Now, the trip observations!

Life on the road is nothing (for us) like any of the popular YouTube influencers I have watched for many years! I am not really sure what I expected but we could not align with any of them. I guess that should not be any real surprise. Everyone has different interests, skill sets, bucket lists and what they want out of life or the lifestyle.

The only reason I point this out is to let others know not to expect your travels to be like “X”. It will no doubt be quite different for you living on the road than it is for anyone you have ever lived vicariously through. One thing I learned… I used to talk about going south for 3 months in the winter. In reality that is never going to happen. Our 5 week trip was about the limit for me. I missed home too much. Missed my shop where I always have a project of some sort going on. Missed the farm! The only thing I didn’t miss was the driving (my career) and the way we did this trip, 4800 miles in 5 weeks was way too much driving for a “retired” truck driver!

Please feel free to add your thoughts as you see fit!

To be continued later!

 

[Mark77]

Another observation

Everyone has different ideas how much to drive, and how long to stay at any given spot. The rule of 3’s seems pretty popular on various social media sites, where you drive 300 miles a day, off the road by 3PM and stay for 3 days.

That would never work for me. I did however take it to the opposite extreme where we have anywhere from 400 to 700 mile days most of the trip. We did have a couple of 270ish mile days and that seemed like a cake walk compared to the long ones. The end of those shorter days we landed in a spot where we had planned on staying for a few days, though really not long enough. See, I don’t want to stop driving until I am either tired or we get to our destination. That’s just how I am wired.

Looking back I think what I would like to do next long trip is shoot for 400 mile days and to be off of the road by dark. I drove many miles at night, in all kinds of weather throughout my driving career, but I knew the roads. I don’t like driving in the dark on unfamiliar roads for a lot of reasons, probably most importantly because of all the scenery you miss. For example we drove south from Payson to Mesa at night and it really “stunk” because I did not know the road and the grades were one right after the other. At times oncoming traffic was on my right and even though it was a divided highway it was confusing! On the way back north in the daylight it was a completely different experience. What a beautiful drive and I could see what was coming next!

Again, you’re driving style and how much driving you can take at one stretch will vary. I just want to get there and I can't see stopping in the daylight and sitting around when I still have a lot of miles to travel. Maybe I need to work on that. I am sure there are a lot of cool things to see in spots we may land and I could spend a day seeing sights.

Curious as to what works for you folks...?

 

[scottz]

I used to be like that; 400, 500 even 700 mile days were not unusual. In the last couple years, I might leave a day or two earlier so I don't have to do that. As you get used to retirement, you might slow down a little. When we travel, we usually dry camp on overnights; no shore power until we reach our destination. In the summer, driving distances are governed by how hot it is; I'll drive longer to reach a cool place to pull over and sleep. This is easier in the west where I've been running around for fifty years and know lots of good places to camp; not so easy east of the Rockies.

 

[Mark77]

This is easier in the west where I've been running around for fifty years and know lots of good places to camp; not so easy east of the Rockies.

I have seen that on various platforms I follow. I think I might be OK west of a line from the east side of ND, SD, NE, and KS. We spotted a lot of places to pull off on our way back that we missed (again dark) on the way down. As I get better at using resources like RV Life Trip Planner, et.al. there may be more than I can't see from the road.

Also thinking Harvest Hosts might be a good fit because if we pick the correct places it could be a good way to stay a night and maybe take in a tour. If I have to buy a 12 pack, a bottle of something or whatever the specialty of that particular host is, at least that is tangible vs paying for real estate for one night.

 

[Mark77]

Happy Pie Day everyone!

Another observation from our trip. This one might be a little controversial, sure to incite disagreement, but it has to do with tow vehicle capacity.

From time to time I have to admit that I have wondered if I am OK. I tow overweight and I know that, but I am not about to spend the kind of money it would take to go to a 3500 when I have towed my same Montana with 3 different 2500’s without any concern. My ’98 and my ’14 both handled the rig well, but my ’19 has something like a 500# less payload rating. Research has proven that is because of the coil spring suspension the ’19 has that I have not had on a truck since my high school 1/2 ton days. When I first hooked the Montana to this truck the mud flaps (also used on my previous 2 trucks) were dragging on the ground. Air bags fixed that.

They use coils to soften up the ride on these newer trucks (Ram) and you need to go to a 3500 to get back to leaf springs. The other key components… the rear axle, brakes and frame structure are shared between the Ram 2500 and SRW 3500 unless you get to the high output 6.7 where they use as heavier rear axle but still the same brakes. The 3500 also has the 8 speed Asain transmission, but many still prefer the proven 68RFE that I have in my ’19.

In any case, my ’19 sports a whopping 2000# payload capacity! The dry pin weight of my Monte is 2600#! Now add fuel, full propane tanks and whatever we have packed in the Monte that lands adding pin weight and I know I am in excess of 2000# heavy on the payload numbers.

This was confirmed on the way home when I pulled across a closed scale in ND that has a digital readout in the window and I had 11,720# on my 7200# truck. Do the math and that means I had 4520# payload, or 2520# over the payload rating.

Now, my Ram was available with optional air bags but I could not find information as to how that affects payload. In any case I was right at my rear axle capacity, 1000# under my front axle capacity and a couple of hundred pounds under my rear tire capacity.

I monitor my gearbox temperatures and all were normal no matter the weather or the grades. I could not warm up the transmission no matter what I did and it preformed flawlessly in all conditions, both pulling and braking behind the Cummins exhaust brake which reached 190 brake HP on some grades. No comparison to the old 727 torque flight I had in my first 1993 Ram / Cummins truck! I was really impressed with the transmission.

I drove 4700 miles on this trip, and had absolutely no concerns about stability of the truck or my safety with the “overloaded” truck. Some of that could be attributed to my driving experience given my 43 year career, but I could cruise right along with one had on the wheel and was in complete control… it even handled my little detour off the road thanks got the Amazon driver mentioned earlier.

Many people on social media pages like this and others, and especially the youtube channels I watch absolutely flip out when they scale their truck and find out they are over their payload capacity and rush out and but a DRW 3500 to pull a 31’ 5th wheel! I cannot figure that out, either their rational OR the manufacturers reasons for being so crazy conservative on their tow ratings, the latter perhaps being a CYA thing in the event of an accident.

By the way… with the double tow latch up I had for the entire trip my GCWR was 25,680#. The utility trailer with the UTV on board axle at 3540#, right at the 3500# axle (with brakes) I built it with.

So… This should stir up some opinions! I am especially interested if anyone else is guilty of this controversial behavior I plead guilty to, without apologies. Been doing the same for 25 years and no bad things have happened and I have never felt nervous about my load.

 

[scottz]

Not controversial at all; just like gas vs diesel.

If you are happy, I'm happy.

 

[Mark77]

Another observation…

We have done a lot of weekend and week long camping for many years so we have never really tested what we can tolerate as far as wastewater tank smells and treatments. Over the years we have used many different kinds of tank treatments and always had some odor, even from the grey tank for that matter. I do not remember the brands we have tried. Some were blue with no fancy smell, others were green colored with fancy smells added, and some were simply drop in pouches.

I have mentioned I have watched a lot of YouTube influencers over the years, and they are all over the place on what to use, I think largely determined by who sends them the latest and greatest formulations for their “honest” reviews. I watched one from EnjoyTheJourney.Life where he had Kleen Tank do his RV and those people really drove home the point about RV not being septic tanks, rather they are holding tanks. You do not want to start digesting waste in those thanks because that is where you get the odor. If you feel the need to dump something in there, they have that recipe for Water, Pinesol and Calgon bath beads that make it smell pretty but doesn’t promote digestion (stink). They also say plenty of water is your friend.

For the last couple of seasons (and on this 5 week long trip) we have practiced that method, sometimes including the Pinesol mix and have had absolutely zero issues with odor. I start out with 5 gallons of water in the black tank and use plenty more to flush when necessary. Dumping has never been a problem. I seldom see any additional solids or paper coming when I rinse after dumping.

That leads to another small observation. We use whatever paper we get a Sam’s Club or Costco just like we do at home and that has never been an issue for us either. We have never used “RV safe” TP and have never had an issue. Again, I think the key is a lot of water in the tank.

I have more observations, but my time is getting thin for composing my thoughts as we are getting ready for spring planting and this retired guy is working doing what I have always loved… Farming!

To be continued!

 

[Mark77]

Observation on TPMS systems.

I had an incident mentioned earlier in the trip story where I damaged a tire causing a slow leak. It happened on a exit ramp, and before I got through the turn on to the intersection roadway I got an alert that my right front tire had rapid air loss. I was 1 minute from a Loves truck stop. By the time I got pulled in, the pressure was still at 72 PSI (has been 80) and I went back and checked it. It still looked OK, but when I got down I could hear the leak and found it to be in the center of the tire face. I figured it was a puncture but there was nothing still protruding.

I eventually, probably 15 minutes later ended up at another tire store just a block away from the Loves. They got be right in, but in the 15 to 20 minutes since the exit ramp and the first warning I still had 65 PSI in the tire. Further examination showed a belt separation problem and I had to buy a new tire.

To my point, that TPMS system likely saved me hundreds of dollars on a damaged camper had I not had it onboard. The tire would have continued to deflate and eventually heated up and blew out. I have only had one tire blow on another 5er over 20 years ago and that tore a big hole in the belly.

I have a Tire Minder TPMS system and it worked as it should! Do yourself a favor and invest in a TPMS system of some kind. There are many brands out there.

Another observation on tire pressures. They very as much as 10 PSI in my case from a cool morning to after an hour on the road. I never worried when I saw 69 or 70 PSI tires when they were cold because after about 20 or 30 miles on the road they were right up to (+) or (-) 80 PSI. I never would have know that before the TPMS system. When I left home in sub zero weather in January, I had them all right up to 80 PSI. 45 minutes later I was on an exit ramp letting air out of my tires. They had gotten up to 92 PSI. Maybe thats OK because they all say 80 PSI cold, but I like to run at about 80 PSI average. Point is, they really vary when they warm up!

 

[scottz]

This is like another gas vs diesel controversy. I think the key is the cold tire pressure spec. Mine are rated at 110psi cold which is where I run them. I don't really care what they get to when hot; I've seen as much as 125.

 

[Mark77]

This is like another gas vs diesel controversy. I think the key is the cold tire pressure spec. Mine are rated at 110psi cold which is where I run them. I don't really care what they get to when hot; I've seen as much as 125.

You're likely correct. I guess when they say 80 PSI cold, they mean COLD, knowing what happens when they warm up. I was fascinated that they can go up 10 PSI.

Brings another thought to mind. If I left Fargo at -14˚ with 80 PSI, what would that pressure be "cold" a couple of days later in 60˚ Arizona cold. Somebody smarter than I would have to figure that out.

 

[scottz]

I've seen a difference when going from winter (20-30) to warmer (60-70) temperatures during Quartzsite. Tires have 4-5psi more in the warmer temperature when checked cold. I have not made adjustments just because I'm lazy and don't want to do it again when I go back to the cold temps. If I was going to stay in the warmer temps I might. If I was departing -14 temps I might just set them 5psi low before departure and see how it works out. All depends on how bad my OCD is at the time.....

 

[twindman]

HERE is a helpful document:
A good estimate is for every 10° fluctuation in air temperature,
vehicle tire pressure will adjust by about 1 psi.

Those measured at the 5,000-foot level (where an atmospheric pressure of only 12.2 pounds per square inch is the ambient pressure) would indicate about 2-3 psi higher tire pressure than at sea level.
ELEVATIN PSI
Sea Level 14.7
1,000 14.2
2,000 13.7
3,000 13.2
4,000 12.7
5,000 12.2
6,000 11.7
7,000 11.3
8,000 10.9
9,000 10.5
10,000 10.1

 

[Mark77]

Been a while folks! We got the crop in record time this year, for the most part by May 9. That means lots of extra GDU (growing degree units) for the corn and soybeans. That will be HUGE for yields this fall. Close to 7000 acres in the ground! Now it’s mostly up to mother nature for timely rains, no hail and lots of sun!

I digress… This is a Montana RV forum, not AgTalk… but I get pretty excited about my real love!

All that wheel time in the fields this spring gave me a lot of time to think about what comes next for my RVing hobby. Looking back on my first long winter trip, the single biggest inconvenience was the lack of power whenever we would stop for either a meal, or for the night. We had lots of light and could run our furnace for an evening, but no TV, Microwave, coffee maker or whatever else we needed line voltage for, without dragging out a cord and running the (not on board) generator. Now, it is called “camping” but I guess I am past the tent camping part of my life and Katy and I now enjoy the modern conveniences we have access to.

With all of the online content I watch, and from visiting with a lot of nice people in the circle who shared their experiences with inverters and solar, I think I have come up with a plan to put into place before our next big trip. Maybe even before some smaller ones!

I am in the process of piecing together a Victron power system. Initially it will consist of a 12 volt 3000 watt (2X120) MulitPlus inverter, Cerbo W/ display screen, all the appropriate distribution panels, and a Victron Orion 50A DC/DC charger. The batteries will be 2 - 200AH VoltGo LiPo batteries. I already own one that I got a great deal on at Quartzsite (I should have bought 2!) and that is the reason I am sticking with VoltGo. VoltGo has communication that plays well with Victron, and the supplier I am working with told me that if I can send data from my batteries to the Cerbo, I do not need to install a shunt.

Initially I am going to forgo solar panels. When we camp up here in the north we are always seeking shade so solar would be kind of silly when you desire to be out of sun. When we are on the road, say traveling to the SW the DC / DC charger will top off those batteries in no time at all. 400 AH will be plenty of power for an overnight stay. When we get to where we are going, it will likely be some sort of boon-docking and in that case I can use my generator to top off batteries in daylight hours. Experience with the VoltGo and my current onboard converter/charger tells me I can take that battery from 60% to a full charge in 30 minutes. Not sure how long the Victron inverter will take under those same circumstances, but I am sure it won’t be any longer depending how I have it set.

I found a Victron dealer I have been working with in Missoula, MT I have been talking to and he is onboard with everything I want, except the batteries. He is not a VoltGo dealer and is advising a 460 AH Epoch battery and selling my VoltGo, but I can buy a second VoltGo for less than 1/2 the money of that Epoch and then when I decide I need 600 AH, I can add another 200 for less money than I can add another 460 (AH rating has to match).

Obviously, sticking with all Victron components makes it super easy to add solar if I deem that necessary at any point in the future.

I should be able to accomplish all of this for about $3500 including the additional VoltGo battery that will cost me about $1000. Putting all of this in a 20 year old 5’er? The beauty of it is I can have it all out of there and move it to my next rig quicker than it will go into this one… at least the removal part. The install will be done by me… I love this kind of stuff, with any needed technical support provided by the dealer I am likely to use.

When I get going on this I will start a new thread and take you all along for the ride if you are interested.

Hope all is well for everyone, and I of course welcome any comments in my ideas, especially of you see somewhere I may be making a mistake!

 

[Carl n Susan]

Sounds like a plan Mark. I am in the same camp. 2K inverter, 600 amp lithium and upgraded converter allows me to boondock for multiple days with without running the generator.

 

[scottandsusan]

I'm looking forward to seeing the installation. I may have missed this part, but is the Victron Orion 50A DC/DC charger what you need to install Lithium batteries in your vintage of camper? Our's is a 2011 so I assume ours would have to be changed out.

 

[Mark77]

I'm looking forward to seeing the installation. I may have missed this part, but is the Victron Orion 50A DC/DC charger what you need to install Lithium batteries in your vintage of camper? Our's is a 2011 so I assume ours would have to be changed out.

The DC / DC charger's only job is to charge my LiPo batteries when the tow vehicle is running, in other words when I am driving. It takes advantage of my trucks 220 Amp alternator, while allowing me to set the max charge current I want to take... maybe 35 - 40 amps would be sufficient and would limit the risk of overloading the alternator. Without it you are using only the charge line in your regular 7 Pin connection. If you get 10 amps out of that, you are lucky. I know they are usually fused at 30 A but with the length of the wire and all of the connections, you never get anywhere close to that.

The DC / DC charger requires heavier cable. I'll probably go with 8 Ga, so there is that expense as well as another connection between the RV and the tow vehicle. I will use a 2 pin "Ainderson" plug. It will essentially be a direct connection (fused of course) to my trucks batteries.

As far as the charger on board your RV and LiPo batteries, someone else can speak to that. I'm not informed on that. In my case, I had replaced my OEM converter charger a few years back because the OEM one cooked my lead acid batteries all the time. The 70 A converter charger I put in handled the VoltGo LiPo battery just fine last winter when I was down south, but that will be coming out when the Victron goes in.

 

[Daryles]

My write up of my DC-DC charger install.

DC to DC charger

I just finished installing a Renogy 60A DC-DC charger in my 5th wheel. The purpose of this is to be able to charge your RV batteries from your truck "safely" whether parked or driving. The 7 way cable from the truck to the RV does provide some charging. The most I have measured is about 7A. It...

www.montanaowners.com

 

[Mark77]

My write up of my DC-DC charger install.

DC to DC charger

I just finished installing a Renogy 60A DC-DC charger in my 5th wheel. The purpose of this is to be able to charge your RV batteries from your truck "safely" whether parked or driving. The 7 way cable from the truck to the RV does provide some charging. The most I have measured is about 7A. It...

www.montanaowners.com

Thanks Daryles... Lots of great information there. Clean install!

 

[MandK]

Sounds like a good plan.
Check the ampacity of your 8 ga wire for the dc/dc charger. It’s not enough. The dc/dc charger manual will provide a recommendation for cable ampacity size. Mine was 1.5x the charger rating.
You’ll love the new set up.
Consider a relay so you can kill the power with your upfitter switch going to the back of the truck when not towing. Good luck.

 

[Mark77]

Check the ampacity of your 8 ga wire for the dc/dc charger. It’s not enough. The dc/dc charger manual will provide a recommendation for cable ampacity size. Mine was 1.5x the charger rating.

Will do... I figured that out reading Daryls thread. BTW, you had some great input there!