3915TB Winter Temps

[Ragingun]

This may not be the best time to discuss this given we are well into spring but I've not seen or found any videos or articles detailing the proper process for cold temps in this unit. We purchased this after cold temps passed but I'd like to be prepared for next season. We are in SC so there aren't many nights that we have to worry about freezing temps but it only takes one night to freeze a water line.

My questions are many. Should I be concerned about the water line running to the fridge for the ice maker that is exposed? What is the best way to shut it off and drain it? What about the rear bathroom water lines? Do they have their own low point drain? It appears that they may looking under the RV. The other low point drains are in the wet bay, being they are "inside" the wet bay and the storage area is heated do I need to worry about those? They are not directly heated since the wet bay is somewhat isolated from the heated storage. Are their any other water lines I should be concerned about?

Has anyone found any videos on this unit detailing cold weather recommendations?

Thanks y'all.

 

[Mikendebbie]

There are LOTS of past threads on winterization in the forum. Its good you are thinking about it now so you can be ready. Im in Central Texas so “usually” only get a 2-3 day cold snap in the 20s once, maybe twice per season. My rig is stored here at the S&B and as long as we dont loose power (due to ice etc) we make it OK. I use the low point drains + blow out the lines with air compressor. This past winter we had a 4 day spell in the upper 20s, and i was worried about the Splendide washing machine (i never winterize with pink stuff…really no need to do that here). I set the furnace to 45* + set a ceramic heater in the basement to help it stay above freezing. I had thermometers in the bay that i checked.

There are lots of forum members who live thru the winter in genuine cold temps and they can offer tips.

 

[TomCat]

Good to be thinking about these things. Are you in a permanent spot, or do you move around? I’m not familiar with your specific rig, but a few things to consider:
- A $20 Walmart heating pad in the wet bay
- Heated water hose, or heat tape/cord for your hose, or unhook water and just use your freshwater tank when temps dip below freezing
- Skirting around the outside of your rig if you don’t need to move it

Unless it gets really cold for an extended period of time your propane heater should keep everything inside warm enough to keep it from freezing. Being in SC it shouldn’t take too much extra work.

 

[Ragingun]

Good to be thinking about these things. Are you in a permanent spot, or do you move around? I’m not familiar with your specific rig, but a few things to consider:
- A $20 Walmart heating pad in the wet bay
- Heated water hose, or heat tape/cord for your hose, or unhook water and just use your freshwater tank when temps dip below freezing
- Skirting around the outside of your rig if you don’t need to move it

Unless it gets really cold for an extended period of time your propane heater should keep everything inside warm enough to keep it from freezing. Being in SC it shouldn’t take too much extra work.

Thanks for responding. Being in SC we need to move every 6 months since the state as a whole, depending on zoning, does not allow permanent RV residency. Skirting is not an option at the resort we stay at. I agree with all your recommendations. My main concern isn't necessarily the water lines within the insulation since the propane heat will keep them warm enough, it's the low point drains in the rear. The front low point drains are inside the water bay so they will not likely freeze but the rear ones are exposed.

If there is any way to prevent the water from freezing in those exposed lines I'm all ears.

 

[TomCat]

I have exposed low point drains and an exposed fresh water tank drain. Each is exposed a few inches. I have never had a problem. One time we were on the way back north from our winter trip and the temp got down to 15 overnight at our last stop. I had to winterize and those drains were frozen. I had to use a hair dryer to thaw them, but they didn’t fail at all. Maybe others could weigh in on the exposed drain question - it has me thinking now

 

[Ragingun]

I have exposed low point drains and an exposed fresh water tank drain. Each is exposed a few inches. I have never had a problem. One time we were on the way back north from our winter trip and the temp got down to 15 overnight at our last stop. I had to winterize and those drains were frozen. I had to use a hair dryer to thaw them, but they didn’t fail at all. Maybe others could weigh in on the exposed drain question - it has me thinking now

Thanks. I've heard others have those lines freeze and leak. I don't want to be in that position.

I have seen others use Jet Swet drain plugs. Products

 

[twindman]

Generally speaking, a pipe only cracks or breaks due to expansion of ice with no where to expand to. Those short drains have the other end to expand to unless it is frozen. With the fresh tank, it has more mass and takes longer to freeze and also is probably kept warm my the rest of the trailer, so its warmth should help keep the drain warm (enough). The other drains can expand into what ever they are draining.
Freezing can still happen as others have stated, but not too likely for temps at 25-30 for a few hours like overnight. Just my opinion.

 

[Ragingun]

Generally speaking, a pipe only cracks or breaks due to expansion of ice with no where to expand to. Those short drains have the other end to expand to unless it is frozen. With the fresh tank, it has more mass and takes longer to freeze and also is probably kept warm my the rest of the trailer, so its warmth should help keep the drain warm (enough). The other drains can expand into what ever they are draining.
Freezing can still happen as others have stated, but not too likely for temps at 25-30 for a few hours like overnight. Just my opinion.

I see that logic however that's not been my experience. I had my own low side drains leak after freezing and the crack occurred up in the insulation not on the low side cap, and that was only 2 days below freezing with lows in the lower 20's and the daily highs of 30's. I've heard of other with the same issue.

 

[mlh]

Those low point drains will freeze but it will not cause a problem. You can prove this to your self. Take a short section of pipe stop it up on one end stand it up fill it with water and freeze it and see what happens, nothing. That is exactly what you have with your low point drains.
Lynwood

 

[Ragingun]

Those low point drains will freeze but it will not cause a problem. You can prove this to your self. Take a short section of pipe stop it up on one end stand it up fill it with water and freeze it and see what happens, nothing. That is exactly what you have with your low point drains.
Lynwood

I've had the plastic connections on the upper end of the low point drain hoses in the insulation freeze and crack and then leak.

 

[RMcNeal]

I have had the sewer drain freeze up before. I bought heat tape from Amazon and wrapped the drains with reflective insulation leaving the plug exposed so I could plug in. Works well.

 

[Daryles]

I wrapped the freshwater tank drain with 1/2" pipe insulation. Then I went over that with 2" pipe insulation.
Have not had a problem.
I had the coroplast off working on a project and I added extra insulation around the inside perimeter of the frame and across the entire bottom. I also covered every hole in the frame with Gorilla tape and closed in the gaps around the leveling legs. Keeping Drafts out will keep you warmer in the winter and cooler in the summer.
I also put it on the inside of all the basement doors.

I used this insulation. Its an R-23.

SmartSHIELD 20mm Reflective Insulation Roll Amazon.com

 

[DutchmenSport]

The 2 low point drains on my Montana High Country are an absolute joke. They do nothing. My drains have a valve inside the wet bay. Removing the back wall of the pass through shocked a sense of reality through my spine when I saw the plumbing fiasco behind the panel in the wet bay.

Actually, (on mine), the low point drains do nothing. Yes, under pressure water will spew out the pipes that protrude from under the trailer. But gravity does nothing. Why? Because the pipes run parallel to the camper, then turn straight UP, parallel again, then straight down. Then the cut off valve, and straight down to the ground. Gravity will NEVER drain my lines until the law of physics (or the Mandela Effect or a time skip through a parallel universe occurs) changes allowing water to rush up hill!

There is another low point in the middle of my camper, directly under the kitchen sink. This is the low point for the refrigerator ice maker. It works .... somewhat. Again, the pipes have dips in them, and vacuums occur in the lines preventing it from flowing.

I added an additional drain valve on the refrigerator line. In order to drain it, I use the water line cut-off valve under the kitchen sink. I open the low point drain under the camper for that line. I open the second drain I installed, and I then disconnect the little blue water line that feeds directly into the refrigerator (inside the camper) and leave that shut off valve open. This drains the water line completely for the refrigerator. I then cycle the ice maker manually a couple times to allow the little blue pipe on the refrigerator to drain (it's always in a vacuum and will not drain unless the other end opens breaking the vacuum.

This is why I always use RV antifreeze to winterize. I will drain my water line to the refrigerator ice maker, and keep that valve under the kitchen sink closed when winterizing. Then run RV antifreeze through everything else. When de-winterizing, I'll flush the lines. After flushing, I'll then re-connect the refrigerator line.