2017 Chevy Duramax Payload for 37 ft Montana Fifth Wheel

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Original Member Title: Need help with payload
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A member with a 2017 Chevy Duramax crew cab, helper bags, and a 37 ft Keystone Montana fifth wheel with a gooseneck hitch is concerned that the truck may already be near its payload limit before adding people or gear. They are questioning whether it is safe for their family, whether they should downsize the camper, or whether a bigger truck is needed.

Members suggested using the truck’s door sticker, VIN information, or a dealer to confirm the actual payload for that specific truck, then...
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dirtymax333

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Joined
Jun 12, 2026
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Location
WI
I have a 2017 chevy durmax crew cab tuned and deleted with helper bags in rear
Own a 37 ft keystone montana 5th wheel with a goose neck 2500 hitch

Im finding so many doffrent payload and numbers sime say im all good to go some say my truck is maxed out without adding any people ir gear

I dont want to attempt to pull my camper if its not safe for me and my family
 
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You should have a sticker on your driver door or door frame that will give you the payload and it will be according to how your truck was optioned, LB, SB. 4x, etc. If there is no sticker, you might be able to plug in your VIN at Chevy’s website (works that way for our Ford) or contact a dealer.

Normally, you add up people at 150/lb per, truck cargo, hitch weight and the pin weight with a loaded trailer. If you don’t have the exact pin weight, you could use 20%-23% of your trailer GVWR. (Our ‘21 3231CK loaded comes in around 3100 lbs which is about 20%). For us, the math for a typical trip works out to 300+300+150+3100=3,850. That number can change for a trip depending on add. cargo in the truck/trailer, fresh water at the back, etc.
 
You should have a sticker on your driver door or door frame that will give you the payload and it will be according to how your truck was optioned, LB, SB. 4x, etc. If there is no sticker, you might be able to plug in your VIN at Chevy’s website (works that way for our Ford) or contact a dealer.

Normally, you add up people at 150/lb per, truck cargo, hitch weight and the pin weight with a loaded trailer. If you don’t have the exact pin weight, you could use 20%-23% of your trailer GVWR. (Our ‘21 3231CK loaded comes in around 3100 lbs which is about 20%). For us, the math for a typical trip works out to 300+300+150+3100=3,850. That number can change for a trip depending on add. cargo in the truck/trailer, fresh water at the back, etc.
My concern is im almost maxed out without anything even packed in the camper ir truck I usally have the wife and kids follow me
Im pretty new but I was under the assumption they wouldn't sell you a camper that you couldn't tow safley

Even if I have 500 to spare that leaves no room for anything

What kind of truck do you have

Should I downsize my camper or buy a bigger truck
 
We have a ‘21 Ford F350, 4X, Crew Cab, 6.7 diesel, LB, SRW. Payload is 4360 lbs. I purposefully looked for a rather stripped down truck to maximize payload - manual seats, cloth, no sun roof, sliding rear window. Just pucks.

Well, before you switch truck or trailer maybe there’s another option. Some folks here have beefed up their truck springs/suspensions and obtained new DOT payload ratings.

Hopefully others who know way more than I do will chime in.

Here’s one recent discussion on truck size. (I’ll have to search for the thread re the beefed up suspension). 3/4 ton or 1 ton truck?

Edit: See post 19 re beefed up springs. Can a 2015 Chevy 2500HD Handle a Keystone Montana 377FL?
 
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The only difference between your 2500 and a single wheel 3500 is the springs and the badge on the side of it. If you want a new truck go for it but you can get by the truck you have.
Lynwood
 
The only difference between your 2500 and a single wheel 3500 is the springs and the badge on the side of it.

That’s pretty much how it was with our Ford. The rear spring has an extra leaf. Not sure if the front is any different from a F250. Don’t know how much a new cert would cost and how to go about it but I imagine factory or custom springs would be reasonable. Dirtymax, if your truck is in good shape, it’s probably worth your time to at least get some quotes.

Re the dealer, I’ve run across ones that run the numbers to make sure the truck is capable and others that don’t. One thing they didn’t tell me was that in CA, you need at least a non-commercial Class A license for a fiver over 15K GVWR.
 
If you want a fairly precise calculation of your payload "availability":
Take your truck full of fuel to a 18 wheeler weigh station, like CAT. Weigh your truck.
Hook up your RV to the truck and weigh again.
Take the total weight of the truck and RV. Now, subtract the weight of the truck. The difference will be your available payload. Compare that number to the payload number on your door sticker.
You can use an estimate, most common is 20% of the GVWR of RV and compare. But, weighing gets you much closer.
 

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