2012 Montana 5th Wheel Model 3585 Hydraulic hose replacement on my Lippert stabilizer

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Members shared firsthand experiences and advice on replacing hydraulic hoses for the Lippert stabilizer system in a 2012 Montana 3585 5th wheel. The consensus is that dropping the coroplast (underbelly) is necessary to access and replace the hoses, as there are no official layout diagrams available. Several RVers recommend tying a string or wire to the old hose to help pull the new one through, which can sometimes avoid removing the entire underbelly, though this method is not always... More...

Flatbroke

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Hello, I'm new to the forum, so go easy with me if i ask a stupid question.lol I have busted a hydraulic hose to my very back right side stabilizer, Do i have to drop the under belly to replace this long hose, are is there a much easier way to replace it? Also is there any way to find a diagram of how the lay out is run underneath to help minimizing what i have to take down if needed.. Any help would be greatly appreciated..
 
Yes you will need to drop the front and rear coroplast to run the new hose. Once you have the coroplast down you can attach the new hose to the old one and pull it through. Having the coroplast down you will be able to untangle the hose from the rats mess of wiring etc.
 

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Unfortunately, there is no lay out diagram for the hydraulic (or pretty much else) lay out. Dropping the coroplast is one way to access the hose. But many here have had success tying a string/wire to the hose, pulling it out, and then using the string/wire to pull the replacement hose back into position.
There are a number of Threads on this topic. The Search option is your friend Here are a few Threads that may help,
 
Yes you will need to drop the front and rear coroplast to run the new hose. Once you have the coroplast down you can attach the new hose to the old one and pull it through. Having the coroplast down you will be able to untangle the hose from the rats mess of wiring etc.
Thank You! Just as I figured, no easy fix. I was hoping the hose ran straight down the side of the frame making it a little easier dropping the coroplast to get to it. Oh well we will see.
 
Unfortunately, there is no lay out diagram for the hydraulic (or pretty much else) lay out. Dropping the coroplast is one way to access the hose. But many here have had success tying a string/wire to the hose, pulling it out, and then using the string/wire to pull the replacement hose back into position.
There are a number of Threads on this topic. The Search option is your friend Here are a few Threads that may help,
Thank You for the reply back and the links. Will let you know how it goes. May just replace the others while I'm at it. The coating on most of the lines have cracked and fallen off. So may be a good time to replace the ones on that side while the coroplast is down
 
Thank You for the reply back and the links. Will let you know how it goes. May just replace the others while I'm at it. The coating on most of the lines have cracked and fallen off. So may be a good time to replace the ones on that side while the coroplast is down
** The the coating ( orange or black ) has fallen off its just a matter of time before the hoses will leak.... A hyd shop can make the new hoses with new JIC37 fittings for you... Also many NAPA parts stores can also make the hoses
 
This will give you an idea of what those OEM hyd hoses look like .. second image shows one of my extend hoses that chaffed ( blue circle ) and leaked like crazy
 

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Hello, I'm new to the forum, so go easy with me if i ask a stupid question.lol I have busted a hydraulic hose to my very back right side stabilizer, Do i have to drop the under belly to replace this long hose, are is there a much easier way to replace it? Also is there any way to find a diagram of how the lay out is run underneath to help minimizing what i have to take down if needed.. Any help would be greatly appreciated..
Before you drop it, tie a string (strong) to one end and try pulling it out leaving the string in there to pull the new one in. Sometimes this works for me (I’m a mobile tech) and sometimes it doesn’t. If it doesn’t, nothing lost, drop the coroplast.
 
The OEM hoses are a joke. I had several fail on my previous 2000 Montana. I now have a 2013 3100RL and replaced all 19 hydraulic hoses last year. We had one burst while setting up on an overnight stop. I had a "field repair" fitting I saved from my old Montana that got me through the remainder of the trip. I learned that even the diagrams on the internet do not necessarily reflect how they put the system together. I did the replacements in phases as I took down the edges of chloroplast to see how they were routed and connected. The two hydraulic slides are also tied into the leveling jacks. I ordered most of the hoses online from Hydraulics Direct (in Colorado) as they were the same specs and quality as NAPA but 30% cheaper. It probably took 5 days (over a few months) of dirty, messy work and cost about $1,300 for materials. Well worth it though for peace of mind.
 
This will give you an idea of what those OEM hyd hoses look like .. second image shows one of my extend hoses that chaffed ( blue circle ) and leaked like crazy
Well just as i thought, when i dropped the coroplast the coating is off all of the hoses thru out the whole camper. Just my luck.lol One thing i don't understand, most of the hoses are 3' to 6' longer than they need to be. The hose busted i was replacing was 8' longer. I can see having them a little longer to be able to do an emergency repair if needed, but surely not 8'. All the hoses but 2 on the camper are original hoses. So 14years old, my question would be, replace all the OEM hoses replace them with 2 or 4 wire hydraulic hose are should i replace them as they are on the camper? Other question should i replace all the length they are on the camper now or Should, I have them made the length i measure as needed with just a little extra instead of all that wasted hose. I really appreciate any feed back . Thank You
 
Two wire hyd hose will outlast the fift( wheel .. it’s what I install when an OEM hose fails..

** Yes.. I shorten the length of the hose co pared to what we installed during the original build.. They throw these things together when they assemble them and use pretty much whatever hose is on hand to make point to point connections

Each hose I’ve replaced so fr with new ones I habe them made six feet shorter than the ones I removed ..

Edited to add.. I installed 2 wire braided hose 9/16 OD x 1/4 ID .. hose and JIC37 fittings from NAPA
 

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Hello, I'm new to the forum, so go easy with me if i ask a stupid question.lol I have busted a hydraulic hose to my very back right side stabilizer, Do i have to drop the under belly to replace this long hose, are is there a much easier way to replace it? Also is there any way to find a diagram of how the lay out is run underneath to help minimizing what i have to take down if needed.. Any help would be greatly appreciated..
I wonder why we can't run metal lines along the frame and short hoses to each jack like you see on construction equipment, car brake lines and aircraft. The only thing that would go through the under belly would be the slide out cylinder's
 
Well after replacing 11 hydraulic hoses so far. It has about whipped my butt. Some have been easy and others not so easy. I think i have about 6 more to go to all my slide outs. Once completed i will have all new double wire hydraulic hoses from front to back. All the parts stores wanted anywhere from $6 to $10 per linear foot, then cost of the JIC37 fittings. I was able to get the best price for all the hydraulic hose and fittings from Vevor,com. over half the price cheaper than the others parts stores. So just wanted to tell you all thanks for the information on how i would need to go about replacing the hoses. Never thought one busted hose would lead to having to replace all the others due to all coating had fallen off all the other lines.
 

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