2005 Keystone Montana 3400RL Slides Won’t Retract

[larrylynns1969]

We are looking at purchasing this older but good condition rv, but cannot get the slides to retract. Brand new battery, all fuses and breakers seem to be intact. We've been searching YouTube, Google and reading Owner Manual....h.e.l.p.

 

[Mikendebbie]

I believe all 3 slides are hydraulic on the 2005 model…are you saying none of them will come in?
Were they already out when you guys first looked at it? Or did they run them out while you were there? Are the levelers hydraulic or electric? Do they work?

There are some folks in the forum that know a lot about trouble shooting hydraulic slides…hopefully they will see your post and offer some ideas.

 

[Carl n Susan]

A 2005 has hydraulic slides. The front landing jacks are electric.The 3 slides are all on one system controlled by the single switch in the control panel.

First: does the hydraulic pump do anything when the switch is activated? Retract or Extend??. Is there a click, hum of any discernible sound?? To really tell you might have someone activate the switch while you stick your head into the battery compartment and listen.

The system is fairly simple electrically. 12V power to the switch, then two wires (extend and retract power) to the solenoid on the reversing switch (in the battery compartment). Depending on how the wall switch was depressed, either the Extend or Retract wire connected to the solenoid triggers a relay on the reversing switch to send 12V power to the pump motor.

A VOM can be used to determine if power is present at each of the locations on the solenoid. There are three large 12V cables on the solenoid. The center one is 12V power from the battery. The two on the left and right send 12V power to the pump motor depending on the desired rotation (Extend or Retract). There are two smaller 12V wires attached to the pump they come from the switch and trigger the relay for Extend or Retract operation.

There have been lots of posts on this topic. A Search keywords such as "reversing", "solenoid" and such should uncover them. Meanwhile I try to find a picture of the solenoid for you.

 

[Carl n Susan]

Here are a couple of Threads which have pictures of the Reversing Solenoid.
Hydraulic Slide Reversing Solonoid (Post #5)
HELP needed on our hydraulic system -- I think! (Post #9)

Both Threads have valuable information besides the Posts I pointed out.

 

[Daryles]

For a 2019 3130re, there is a red inline fuse above and behind the hydraulic pump in the battery compartment. It goes to the Level-up control panel and tank heaters.
Pull it out and make sure it's good, then push it down firmly. Mine backed out (know in the electronics industry as "chip creep". My tank heaters were not working (blue switches on the control panel did not light up. Level-up control panel had no power.
Once I pushed the fuse down hard everything started working again.

 

[twindman]

I had a 2006 model. Memory is not so good, but I think those model years also had self resetting 50 amp fuses on the back of the battery compartment. When loaded moving the slides, they would shut down for a minute or so. Perhaps yours has completely failed and doesn't pass current thru it. Check the voltage on both sides when the retract switch is pressed.

 

[larrylynns1969]

A 2005 has hydraulic slides. The front landing jacks are electric.The 3 slides are all on one system controlled by the single switch in the control panel.

First: does the hydraulic pump do anything when the switch is activated? Retract or Extend??. Is there a click, hum of any discernible sound?? To really tell you might have someone activate the switch while you stick your head into the battery compartment and listen.

The system is fairly simple electrically. 12V power to the switch, then two wires (extend and retract power) to the solenoid on the reversing switch (in the battery compartment). Depending on how the wall switch was depressed, either the Extend or Retract wire connected to the solenoid triggers a relay on the reversing switch to send 12V power to the pump motor.

A VOM can be used to determine if power is present at each of the locations on the solenoid. There are three large 12V cables on the solenoid. The center one is 12V power from the battery. The two on the left and right send 12V power to the pump motor depending on the desired rotation (Extend or Retract). There are two smaller 12V wires attached to the pump they come from the switch and trigger the relay for Extend or Retract operation.

There have been lots of posts on this topic. A Search keywords such as "reversing", "solenoid" and such should uncover them. Meanwhile I try to find a picture of the solenoid for you.

 

[larrylynns1969]

The slides were already out when we looked at it. When we push the button to retract, I dont hear anything but when I get off work I will have my husband stand at battery compartment to see if he hears the pump when I press the switch. We found the inline circuit breaker and tested that...all good. So I think testing solenoid and switch are basic things left to do.

 

[BB_TX]

Below is a picture of the reversing contractor that reverses the polarity of the 12 vdc going to the pump motor.

From the battery there will be a wire going to one side of an auto reset circuit breaker (also pictured). Another wire will go from the other side of that breaker to the top center stud on the reversing contactor. All points in that circuit should always be positive 12 volts. Use a VOM to check.

The other two studs should each have a wire to the pump motor. Normally those have no power. When the extend switch is activated, one of those studs will be +12 vdc and the other ground. That causes the pump to rotate in the direction to pump fluid to extend the slides.

When the retract switch is activated, the polarity of those two studs is reversed, the pumps rotates in the opposite direction, and the slides retract.

The two silvered colored spade terminals at the base of the contactor is where the wires from your extend and retract switches are connected. Activating either switch should energize the contractor causing the contractor to power the motor in the correct direction. And you should be able to hear the contractor click when it energizes. Use a VOM to check for voltage at each spade terminal while someone else presses each switch. If no power, then you have either bad switch(es) or a blown fuse.

The switches. I think, have their own in-line fuse behind the switch panel. That fuse could be bad.

If you have all power present and the contractor is operating, then you may have a bad pump motor.

Make sure all wiring connections are tight.

 

[Rthrush]

We are looking at purchasing this older but good condition rv, but cannot get the slides to retract. Brand new battery, all fuses and breakers seem to be intact. We've been searching YouTube, Google and reading Owner Manual....h.e.l.p.

Before you start throwing money at your slides, do one thing first. Go to the solenoid and make sure the connections are tight. For some reason these have a tendency to loosen and the slides won't work. Half inch wrench and make sure you don't over tighten them because they will strip inside the module, then you will have to throw some money at it.
Just replaced our kitchen slide cylinder (actuator) on our 3400RL 2011 and I ran through a number of checks and of course it was the thing I had to throw big money at. The replacement was moderately easy to do. But check all the cheap stuff first.

 

[h2ojocky]

Don't forget to check the hydraulic reservoir in the battery compartment. With the slides out it should be about half full.

 

[coyoterick]

The hydraulic pump can also be manually operated, there is a crank supplied with the 5th wheel that lets you turn the pump by hand in case of electrical failure. Try to find the crank, it's usually in the front compartment with the pump.

 

[BB_TX]

You can also use a reversible drill with a hex bit inserted into the end of the pump motor.

 

[RVNS4US]

We are looking at purchasing this older but good condition rv, but cannot get the slides to retract. Brand new battery, all fuses and breakers seem to be intact. We've been searching YouTube, Google and reading Owner Manual....h.e.l.p.

You may have a manifold that shuts off - turns on each slide. It would be located on top of the pump.

 

[Mark77]

I have an '04. All 3 slides are plumbed together from the factory. If the pump runs, check your hydraulic reservoir and make sure there is enough oil in it. They have an inline circuit breaker, self resetting.

If your solenoid doesn't click and you know what you are doing you could jump across the common terminal and either extend or retract to rule out the switch.

Let us know what you find out please!

 

[larrylynns1969]

Below is a picture of the reversing contractor that reverses the polarity of the 12 vdc going to the pump motor.

From the battery there will be a wire going to one side of an auto reset circuit breaker (also pictured). Another wire will go from the other side of that breaker to the top center stud on the reversing contactor. All points in that circuit should always be positive 12 volts. Use a VOM to check.

The other two studs should each have a wire to the pump motor. Normally those have no power. When the extend switch is activated, one of those studs will be +12 vdc and the other ground. That causes the pump to rotate in the direction to pump fluid to extend the slides.

When the retract switch is activated, the polarity of those two studs is reversed, the pumps rotates in the opposite direction, and the slides retract.

The two silvered colored spade terminals at the base of the contactor is where the wires from your extend and retract switches are connected. Activating either switch should energize the contractor causing the contractor to power the motor in the correct direction. And you should be able to hear the contractor click when it energizes. Use a VOM to check for voltage at each spade terminal while someone else presses each switch. If no power, then you have either bad switch(es) or a blown fuse.

The switches. I think, have their own in-line fuse behind the switch panel. That fuse could be bad.

If you have all power present and the contractor is operating, then you may have a bad pump motor.

Make sure all wiring connections are tight.

Thank you!! Will check this now!