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Old 09-26-2020, 09:51 PM   #1
bleedmichigan
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Need opinions on hydraulic slide stutter

Our hydraulic slides have a slight start stop issue going on. I have tested the solenoid on the pump and it appears good. So I’m thinking of replacing the breakers but when I looked at the way the pump is wired I am pretty sure it is not on a breaker. Thoughts? am I wrong?
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Old 09-27-2020, 04:17 AM   #2
Mikendebbie
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That thing on the left with 3 yellow connectors is the OEM 50 amp resettable breaker. That is the one you should replace with an 80 amp breaker.
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Old 09-27-2020, 05:07 AM   #3
RMcNeal
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If it is more of a stutter and not actually stopping for a while then resetting, it may not be the breaker. That should be a self resetting breaker and it usually takes several seconds for it to reset, so it wouldn't present as a stutter or quick stop/start/stop.
It could be that you need to add some fork oil to the hydraulic system. The hydraulics will pop and stutter, especially in colder months, when it needs some anti-stiction fluid. I removed a quart of hydraulic fluid from ours and added a quart of fork oil and the popping went away. Lippert lists a couple different brands to use, here's the one I used from Amazon...https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1.

Here's the Lippert tech sheet on that...https://lci-support-doc.s3.amazonaws...cd_0002091.pdf
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Old 09-27-2020, 06:11 AM   #4
bleedmichigan
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Originally Posted by RMcNeal View Post
If it is more of a stutter and not actually stopping for a while then resetting, it may not be the breaker. That should be a self resetting breaker and it usually takes several seconds for it to reset, so it wouldn't present as a stutter or quick stop/start/stop.
It could be that you need to add some fork oil to the hydraulic system. The hydraulics will pop and stutter, especially in colder months, when it needs some anti-stiction fluid. I removed a quart of hydraulic fluid from ours and added a quart of fork oil and the popping went away. Lippert lists a couple different brands to use, here's the one I used from Amazon...https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1.

Here's the Lippert tech sheet on that...https://lci-support-doc.s3.amazonaws...cd_0002091.pdf

I’ve done the fork oil additive already actually. It’s not a popping that I’m having. It will start then pause then start then pause then start then pause. Doesn’t matter if I use the switch or the remote.
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Old 09-27-2020, 06:13 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by Mikendebbie View Post
That thing on the left with 3 yellow connectors is the OEM 50 amp resettable breaker. That is the one you should replace with an 80 amp breaker.
Yeah I know which one my question is shouldn’t the line to the pump be on the other terminal across from the battery? Also shouldn’t the battery go into the copper post? Then the line for the pump go out the silver post?
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Old 09-27-2020, 07:52 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by bleedmichigan View Post
Yeah I know which one my question is shouldn’t the line to the pump be on the other terminal across from the battery? Also shouldn’t the battery go into the copper post? Then the line for the pump go out the silver post?
Yes, from your pic it does appear it is wired incorrectly. The feed to the pump is on the line side, not the load side of that breaker. So your pump is NOT breaker protected.

The ? is then why is the pump stopping while moving the slides. ?
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Old 09-27-2020, 07:56 AM   #7
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Yes, from your pic it does appear it is wired incorrectly. The feed to the pump is on the line side, not the load side of that breaker. So your pump is NOT breaker protected.

The ? is then why is the pump stopping while moving the slides. ?
My thought is the line in side is backward. If I remember correctly the battery should hook to the copper post and in my instance everything hooks to the silver post.
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Old 09-27-2020, 08:20 AM   #8
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My thought is the line in side is backward. If I remember correctly the battery should hook to the copper post and in my instance everything hooks to the silver post.
I could be wrong but I don't think it matters on those Breakers which side is as long as the voltage is going through the breaker not bypassing it. I replaced mine with an 80 amp breaker and it clearly states battery / load on the terminals
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Old 09-27-2020, 08:51 AM   #9
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Are you sure that wire on the left (labeled bat in your pic) is actually coming from the battery? Normally the wire from the battery goes to the breaker on the right with the jumper to the breaker on the left. If that is truly the battery wire (labeled bat) then I think you should reverse the two black wires coming up from the bottom so that the battery goes to the breaker on the right and the other wire goes to the breaker on the left.


Those breakers are nothing more than a piece of bimetal with a contact on one end. No polarization, so which side you connect to doesn't really matter. You can see what one looks like after it has tripped a number of times.
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Old 09-27-2020, 10:58 AM   #10
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Double check that wire on the left CB labeled battery. I am willing to bet that is the line to the fuse box. The positive battery wire is connected to the right CB.
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Old 09-27-2020, 04:59 PM   #11
bleedmichigan
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Double check that wire on the left CB labeled battery. I am willing to bet that is the line to the fuse box. The positive battery wire is connected to the right CB.
I checked how I have it marked is how it is currently set. Question though if it was the other way how would adding a 80amp after the 50amp fix people’s issue with the hydraulics? Wouldn’t the 50 blow before the 80?
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Old 09-27-2020, 05:16 PM   #12
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No, if wired correctly, the cable from the battery to the 1st CB is on the same CB pole as the jumper to the 2nd CB. Effectively it is unfused. The 2nd CB provides the protection for the pump motor and the line to the rig's fuse panel.
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Old 09-27-2020, 05:26 PM   #13
bleedmichigan
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No, if wired correctly, the cable from the battery to the 1st CB is on the same CB pole as the jumper to the 2nd CB. Effectively it is unfused. The 2nd CB provides the protection for the pump motor and the line to the rig's fuse panel.
Got it. Did not think of just leaving the jumper on the in screw and putting it to the other in screw. Well I guess I know what I need to do tomorrow
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Old 09-27-2020, 05:39 PM   #14
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Agree with Carl. Battery wire should go to the copper post on the right side breaker with the current jumper. That puts +12 v on both breakers. They are not in series.
The large black wire currently on the copper post of the right side breaker should go to the silver post of the left side breaker. I am assuming that wire disappears thru the wall going to the rear of the trailer. That puts the pump and the other black wire protected by the left breaker. And everything else on the right breaker.
And changing the left breaker to 80 amp gives the pump that extra current allowance.
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