Tips for removing underbelly barrier

[Maggiesclan]

I have a 3610RL. Recently noticed water dripping from area near fresh water tank drain. It appears, unfortunately, that the drip originates somewhere inside the underbelly barrier.

Wondered if anyone has suggestion for removing the steel pegs which were used to secure the underbelly material to the frame?

My first thought is that I’ll have to use vice grips to pull the steel pegs.

Anyone have experience with this?

Thanks and Happy New Year

[MARK A]

Originally Posted by Maggiesclan

I have a 3610RL. Recently noticed water dripping from area near fresh water tank drain. It appears, unfortunately, that the drip originates somewhere inside the underbelly barrier.

Wondered if anyone has suggestion for removing the steel pegs which were used to secure the underbelly material to the frame?

My first thought is that I’ll have to use vice grips to pull the steel pegs.

Anyone have experience with this?

Thanks and Happy New Year

I use a nail puller, you could use a claw hammer, but whatever you use put a piece of wood or something between your tool of choice and the frame where you’re prying, so as to not damage the coroplast.
Also if you have topics or questions unrelated to a thread (post) you should start your own thread, responses will be faster and on topic

Mark

[Golfmedik]

Several have used a cordless drill with either an 1/8 or 1/4" socket to spin the nail while using a nail puller to pry it out and been really successful

[mtlakejim]

If someone will steer the engineer who invented those nails into a dark alley where I am waiting I think we can fix the situation and the world will be better for it.......

[Montana Man]

Originally Posted by mtlakejim

If someone will steer the engineer who invented those nails into a dark alley where I am waiting I think we can fix the situation and the world will be better for it.......

I think the engineer was transfered to the department that improperly hangs those two piece waste holding tanks. Then he was transfered to the satellite cabling department. He saved Keystone so much money they made him CEO.

[jeffba]

I used a cordless drill and small prybar. once they are spinning it does not take a lot to get them to back out.

@Jim At the Community College of Goshen there is a class taught. "How to save the company money at the expense of dealers and consumers by any means possible."

[Theunz]

But, but, wait...Montanas are so well built that one should never need to drop the coroplast

[Texan]

Now that you have found out how to remove the coroplast, I think?, To reinstall use a 4x4 piece of plywood on top of a floor jack and set in center of coroplast and jack it up to frame. This will make a 1 man install much easier. The only part of the coroplast you will be pushing up by hand will be the fringes. The size of the plywood will depend on how much you need to raise. I've reinstalled the whole piece with 4x4 piece of plywood. Never drop the whole piece at once unless you have help or floorjack. Good-Luck.

[mtlakejim]

Oh yes and at this point we should mention to replace the "most irritating fasteners in the world" with good ole self tapping screws that you can buy anywhere and easily drive with a cordless driver!!! If your really a go getter you can add fender washers to give the screws a little extra surface area so they do an even better job and don't end up breaking thru the corplast.......

[mtlakejim]

Folks I am working hard down here in New Mexico producing the oil that supplies the diesel for your trucks. As such, I won't be able to make a rally up at Goshen anytime in the next several years, so I am asking you to do me a big favor and put the Keystone engineer that designed those fasteners AND the manager that ok them on a plane to NM. or at least let them have a piece of all of our minds!!!!


In other words you have my proxy AGAINST using those fasteners!!!!!