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Old 02-28-2015, 11:17 AM   #1
Montana Master
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Depends on temps
Posts: 1,648
M.O.C. #13157
JandC furnace issue

Hi JandC.

Your intermittent furnace is what I fought last winter. Used a mobile service guy. He replaced the ingniter cause the gap was wrong. Better, but still intermittent. Found LP pressure was low, raised it and that seemed to fix it.

This winter has been perfect. Keystone does not warranty the furnace, Attwood does.


2012 Ram Laramie 3500 DRW 4x4 3.73 Tow Max Pkg B&W Companion 60 gal RDS aux fuel tank. 2014 Montana 3150RL, 2 A/C's, Leather, 6 Point Jacks, Splendede WD2100XC, Mor/ryde X-Factor, Duravis 250 tires with TST 507RV monitors. 2 x Honda EU2000's
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Old 02-28-2015, 10:59 PM   #2
Montana Master
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Frostproof, FL USA
Posts: 2,354
M.O.C. #13272
Thanks Jim! I have dozens on notes written down I was going to share with the next mobile tech that I called to look at my Atwood. When I have posted about the stupid furnace off and on and received information from the MOC I was keeping track of things to look for.

When the first tech tried to fix it last fall, he immediately determined that the spacing was too side on the igniter. He corrected it and cleaned it. He made the comment at the time that if he had one on his truck he would just go ahead and replace it instead. He was there in a driving rain storm and about 35 degrees. Once he put the igniter back in the furnace fired on and off perfectly about 10 times.

You may be 100% correct in your diagnosis though. In May when I return to Illinois I plan on having the same tech out and will encourage him to check propane pressure and totally replace igniter.

Thanks again!
Previous: 2008 Montana 3400RL & 2014 3725RL
Current: Full Time F350 pulling SOB Toy Hauler
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Old 03-01-2015, 03:17 AM   #3
Montana Master
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Depends on temps
Posts: 1,648
M.O.C. #13157
Since you have got the igniter spaced properly that is probably OK. (must be no wider than 1/8" use a drill bit to check gap) Mine would light first thing in the morning, complete the heat cycle, and when the thermostat called for heat the second time, the furnace would blow, not light, go into shut down with a no-flame sense code. Led on the board blinking 3 times if I remember right. You can see the LED on the board by removing the outer furnace cover.

About noon, after several resets it would light one more time and then was done for the day. Next morning worked perfect first time, then no more.

I tried both tanks, looked at temperature, removed the 30lb regulator, replaced the 30lb regulator, and nothing seemed to affect it.

I bought a LP pressure gauge off Ebay and hooked it up to the furnace and watched it. It stayed @ 8.5" sometimes it would light, sometimes not. Since a crossover regulator is only about $30-40 I decided to try adjusting mine. Remove the black screw on cap and under it is a adjusting screw that will increase spring pressure, which increases LP pressure. 4 turns it bottomed out, pressure went to 10.5" and furnace started working just fine.

The stove, frig, hot water heater all worked fine on the 8.5" but not the furnace.

I found a like new (gauge) used one on Ebay, figuring the $50 was easier than to keep having the mobile guy come out plus it was a tool I did not have. The mobile guy had one, just not on his truck.

The board is usually it works or it does not. Igniter is a piece of wire and unless it is gaped wrong or the insulator is cracked it works. Voltage to the board must be at least 12vdc, ck ground. Sail switch usually works. See what your fault code is on the board when it does not light.

This is the type gauge I bought, there are several brands, and you can buy them at any place that has LP or home furnace parts.

Stay warm, Jim
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