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Old 09-01-2014, 11:33 AM   #1
poloace
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tank valve leakage

Anyone have trouble with the dump valves not closing all the way. After the tank is about 1/3 full, i take the cap off, and about a quart of liquid comes out. Looks like the black tank, sometimes the water is soapy.
I have had to have the black cable replaced once already. I have taken it to a dealer, as it was still under warranty, they filled the tanks, and no leakage.
I was going to pull the under belly, and either replace the seals, or just put new valves on all 3 tanks.
Any thoughts or suggestions?
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Old 09-01-2014, 12:03 PM   #2
Phil P
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Hi

I have found that no matter how much you clean the tanks or how long you let them drain some fluid stays in the line to the dump outlet and then migrates to the cap while in motion.

I keep a bucket in the basement next to the service center and put it under the pipe before I remove the cap. I always remove the water hose connection first and drain whatever will come out there then remove the cap.

Because of keystones excellent workmanship and excellent quality control my fitting at the out let didnít get glued on straight so my water hose connection is at about the 5 oíclock position when the cap is tight. This causes my discharge line to hold about a quart of fluid even when the water hoes fitting doesnít discharge anything.

Sometimes it looks like black tank material sometimes it looks like gray tank material and today when we dumped it was clear like clean water.

Phil P
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Old 09-01-2014, 12:14 PM   #3
boat391
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I went to camping world and bought a twist on blade valve about 25 bucks and did away with this problem all together. It also works while dry camping just open the grey and galley tanks and they equalize give me max storage. Hope this helps your problem. I know others have done this also that where I got the idea.
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Old 09-01-2014, 12:18 PM   #4
WeBeFulltime
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by boat391

I went to camping world and bought a twist on blade valve about 25 bucks and did away with this problem all together. It also works while dry camping just open the grey and galley tanks and they equalize give me max storage. Hope this helps your problem. I know others have done this also that where I got the idea.
This is what I do also...much cleaner!
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Old 09-01-2014, 12:24 PM   #5
1retired06
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It is a common problem for folks. I have replaced the cable pulls three times over the years. Keep them as short and straight as possible, and exercise them in and out routinely to reduce corrosion buildup in the cable tubes. I secured with cable ties to keep them from moving around. Not sure spraying silicon at the pull handles really accomplishes anything, but I do that as well. And even though my valves close, after bouncing around on the road, I routinely have some drainage when I uncap. Not a lot, just 2-3 seconds worth.
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Old 09-01-2014, 01:07 PM   #6
mamestra
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I also purchased a blade valve on a clear elbow, stops the problem with leakage and allows me to check to see that my black tank is clean after flushing.
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Old 09-01-2014, 02:50 PM   #7
johncamtravel
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I too added a twist on valve. Got tired of getting a bath when taking the cap off. With the added valve you have added security on not getting dumped on.
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Old 09-01-2014, 04:14 PM   #8
DQDick
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Blade valve and a clear elbow for us also.
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Old 09-02-2014, 04:53 AM   #9
poloace
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Thanks for the input. I will get a blade valve. I spray silicone the best i can do when i have the valves open. Dont know how far it gets.
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Old 09-03-2014, 06:40 PM   #10
clarkandsheila
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Another here that installed a final blade valve at the hose connection.
I cut the old fitting and hard installed the valve. If that valve goes hooey then it is easily replaced as the assembly is bolted together.

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Old 09-03-2014, 09:44 PM   #11
Artemus Gordon
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Blade value !
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Old 09-04-2014, 06:01 AM   #12
grampachet
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I still use the old "surprise" bucket, but the new valve is on my bucket list.
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Old 09-04-2014, 07:06 AM   #13
Overlord
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I hard plumbed in a gate valve at the end of the dump pipe. Wasn't too difficult of a job, and it stops the "surprise".

I figured that if I put a twist-on valve, with my luck, it would either:
  • Fall off on the road somewhere
  • Get stolen
I did find once while doing an inspection of the rig and hitch before leaving from a restaurant dinner stop, that somebody had pulled the handle out on my added gate valve as a "joke". But it was no problem, as they couldn't open the valves in the convenience center, and most likely did not know about the galley handle.
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Old 09-04-2014, 07:37 AM   #14
lostshakerofsalt
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One problem to keep in mind if using the blade valve at the output to allow you open both gray water valves to equalize your tanks. If you have a drop frame in front your front black and gray water tanks are at a lower level than the kitchen tank. If you open both valves to equalize you will overfill the front gray water tank and possibly cause a leak or worse. On the older units that did not have a drop frame this might have worked.
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Old 09-04-2014, 11:59 AM   #15
boat391
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I have a new 37&1/4 with drop frame and use this all of the time never encountering a problem as long as it is just gravity fill its fills the front grey first then backs up to the galley tank. I thought about this when I bought the new Monty and pulled the wall in the basement and looked to see if there is a vent or something lower than the tank. After looking it over I decided to give it a try and found no problem using this method. All I can say is I know it works on my Monty. I would urge others to look there Monty over to see if it would work for them.
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Old 09-04-2014, 12:21 PM   #16
Overlord
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Pretty sure that the holding tanks on my drop-frame are all at the same height.
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Old 09-04-2014, 07:37 PM   #17
Carl n Susan
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by Overlord

Pretty sure that the holding tanks on my drop-frame are all at the same height.
What year rig do you have? All of the drop frame models I have ever seen have a black and shower tank mounted longitudinally in the dropped area and the galley tank mounted transversely on the upper frame aft of the other two. I have not looked at a front living room model so they may be different. You can pull the rear panel in the basement and see the tanks. Check it out yourself.

Many members have found filling a tank to overflow is asking for leaks/ruptures. The additional water pressure on the shower tank from the higher level galley tank seems like it will exacerbate any potential tank flaw.

I used to do it when the tanks were level with one another. I will not do it with my high/low mounted tanks.
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Old 09-07-2014, 01:53 AM   #18
astrungis
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Same here. After having black water leakage spill onto my shoes after removing the cap, I went out and bought a knife valve at the termination point from CW. My shutoffs are getting more difficult to close as time goes on. Seems there needs to be a better system.
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Old 09-07-2014, 03:25 AM   #19
jcurtis934
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On the 3800 the front tanks are lower than the galley grey. When lubing cables in center, I take handle off one, open up back to c center, undo nut holding cable in center wall, pull out of that area and elevate as much as possible, then spray lots of silicon into cable and let sit awhile. Then I put cable back in place, attach nut, handle, exercise cable in and out...then repeat for other cable. Takes awhile to do, but it took a black tank cable from being so hard to open that it took all my weight leaning back to open it to now I can merely pull on it using only arm power. John
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