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Old 05-27-2014, 05:10 AM   #1
akf15e
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Landing gear help needed

Can anyone help me out here? Yesterday while retracting the gear, as it came up about halfway, I heard a sort of pop and the driver's side gear would no longer retract. I was able to push it back up by hand and secure it so we could tow home. Essentially it can be pushed up or down with my hand (it's hard but it can be done) without using the remote (can't use my rocker switch because it is non-functional too, different story). When I first got the rig I over-retracted and sheared the pin on the other side and fixed that. However, this was only halfway up so I know I didn't over-retract it. Any ideas? I need to take the gear off but am perplexed as how to disconnect it from the motor. If anyone can point me out to directions on how to disconnect the motor so I can remove the gear and inspect it/fix it would be greatly appreciated. Sitting on jackstands in my driveway is not how I want to "enjoy" my investment!

I need to get this fixed so I can start all of the other repairs before our trip in 3 weeks!

Thanks!!
 
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Old 05-27-2014, 05:19 AM   #2
akf15e
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Sorry - more details - the motor is still driving the shaft which is turning the gears on top - they just aren't raising or lowering the leg - it is more or less "hanging".
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Old 05-27-2014, 07:02 AM   #3
akf15e
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OK, I since I got the whole assembly off now thanks to Google, can MOCers help me figure out how to remove the drive pin? Thanks to anyone!
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Old 05-27-2014, 08:36 AM   #4
Carl n Susan
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The Venture Manufacturing web site has a bunch of PDFs ob the landing legs. As I recall, one shows how to disassemble the leg. If you can't find them, email me and I will send them to you.

If you are talking about the pin at the top of the drive gear that holds the horizontal angle gear (the one with the shear pin), it takes a drift to get it out. The vertical angle gear on the horizontal drive bar is held in with a circlip as I recall.

If you need a sheer pin, I have about 50 of them compliments of Venture. I have no need for them now that I have a hydraulic system.
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Old 05-27-2014, 08:44 AM   #5
akf15e
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Thanks Carl. I was able to find those diagrams on the forum but wasn't sure the best technique for removing the pins without doing damage. Probably won't need the shear pins as the whole leg needs to be replaced. The threads inside were toast -the jackscrew had nothing to drive any more. So I will get a new leg assembly now. Hopefully installation is easy! Thanks again. Now I can get started and remove my peeling decals, fix the outside faucet leak, figure out why my battery won't charge on shore power, and try to remedy the non-working slide/gear/stabilizer rocker switches and then we'll be good to go for the summer (knocks on wood).
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Old 05-27-2014, 02:05 PM   #6
Carl n Susan
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Venture has the best price on a leg replacement that I found. You need the info printed on the cap to ensure you get the correct leg. The leg is easy to replace. Basically a bolt-in process.

The battery not charging is a common problem. Sometimes the disconnect switch is in the wrong position or the fuses in the converter are blown or the converter itself has died. All easy things to trouble shoot.

The non-working rocker switches are another all too common problem. I assume you have a remote, which is working, as otherwise you are SOL. Numerous posts have been made about the control unit (brains) not allowing the manual switches work. Since the "Search" function is broken right now it is hard to find the various postings. Here is a link I had rat-holed. http://www.montanaowners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=46515
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Old 05-27-2014, 02:46 PM   #7
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Butch,
Not sure if it makes sense with shipping but if interested, I have 2 used in the attic. Pm me if interested.

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Old 05-28-2014, 04:42 AM   #8
akf15e
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Carl - thanks for the response. I have ordered the replacement leg from Lippert. On my rig, the disconnect switch has to be "on" for the battery to power things. I verified that today and it has been in the right position all along. I wonder if the 7 degree temps this winter could have damaged the battery? It was in a body shop most of the winter getting blown tire body damage repair and I'm sure they didn't take the battery out. I know my converter is running - I can here the fan. I will check the fuses later though. As for the rocker switches - yes, I've tried the rerouting of the ground wire - no change. I hate to keep relying on my remote because I know I am going to get hung out to dry one of these trips when it dies too. Again, I appreciate the inputs.

Ken- wow! Thanks for that offer! I guess I panicked and pulled the trigger too quickly on ordering a new one. I have such limited time before our next rip that I wanted to get one on the way immediately. However, if there is any delay or back-order I will be PMing you for sure.
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Old 05-28-2014, 08:05 AM   #9
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Butch -- I hope you have better luck with Lippert than I had with my landing gear. They shipped the wrong legs and we were down from our travels sitting in Little Rock for over a week(just short of two) waiting for parts to be sent back and forth. We even paid for express delivery and they still took five days to get then second set to us because the delivery service(UPS)do not deliver on Saturdays UNLESS you pay even more. Nothing was said about that but that is a whole new story!
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Old 05-28-2014, 11:24 AM   #10
akf15e
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Rondo - I am keeping my fingers crossed. The lady tried to sell me the wrong part at first. I caught the error based on the matrix on their own web page. She couldn't answer a couple of questions I asked and had to go for help eventually. Anyway, it is supposed to be here Friday (it has shipped), so I will have time to send it back and get one directly from Venture if needed. Turns out they were cheaper anyway. Doh!

All - after hours of troubleshooting, I finally got my battery problem solved....corroded ground wire on the battery. Turns out it was charging OK after all. Cleaned up the terminals and the connections and all is well. Broke the number one rule of troubleshooting though -start simple and work toward the complex. I started by messing around with the converter, breakers and fuses, etc. Well, at least I was able to clean the converter intake and the pet hair covered area under the steps! So not a total loss. Still need to solve the mystery of slide/gear/stabilizer rocker switches not working, even after changing the - wire to ground at the chassis. Thanks to all who offered help.
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Old 05-29-2014, 01:46 AM   #11
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Butch
Sometimes it's not just the ground wire on the remote module. On my unit the positive wire failed and I had to jumper it(actually did both)
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Old 05-29-2014, 03:27 AM   #12
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Mike - how does one jumper the positive wire? Thanks!
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Old 05-30-2014, 01:46 AM   #13
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I disconnected the + and - input to the module (on the right side) and connected them to the + and - output on the top(leave the existing output wires in place). this eliminates the remote so only the switches work.
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Old 05-30-2014, 08:12 AM   #14
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It seems to me you can move the + and - wires to the switches over to the + and - input connection (basically the opposite of what Ishler did) and have both the remote and the switches work. Or you can connect the + wires for the switches to any other known 12V connection as it appears the "brains" has lost all connectivity with the external switch connection.

I am a big fan of the remote when hooking up. I can adjust the height of the pin from inside the truck. Disabling the remote function is not in my plan.
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Old 05-30-2014, 11:57 AM   #15
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Carl - thanks for a timely input. I am also a huge fan of the remote - like you, I use it from the truck and also back at the stabilizers as I align lynx levelers under the feet. I will stick my head back in the compartment tomorrow to see if I follow what you are advocating. If not I'll post that I am lost!
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Old 05-31-2014, 01:35 AM   #16
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Mine was the method suggested by Lippert until I could get the remote module replaced. The module prevents you from using the switch and the remote at the same time. A bad scenario would be one person trying to raise the landing gear or awning with the remote while another was trying to lower at the same time.
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Old 06-10-2014, 10:51 AM   #17
akf15e
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Sorry to bump this up, but I have one last question. First though, I am happy to report that I have installed the new landing gear and it works fine. I must admit that the little bit of metal to metal overlap that the gear has with the frame of the camper was a bit disturbing! After looking at the other one though, it is indeed installed correctly. Hard to believe the whole nose is lifted by those few pieces of steel. Lippert was great at sending me all kinds of diagrams and nice to know information about the gear as well. If anyone needs anything, let me know. Thanks to all who offered advice and help.

I also was able to successfully ID my battery problem as a bad neg to ground battery connection (corroded), so my converter and all other electrics are just fine.

Also, based on Carl's suggestion above, I was able to disconnect the + wire for the manual switches and bypass the control module and confirm that all rocker switches now work. However, seeing as my electrical know-how is slim at best, I am not sure where to permanently connect the + wire. I know I don't want to connect directly to the battery, but I'm not sure where is best. Right now it is connected to the same side of the auto-reset 40A breaker where the power wire for the entire remote module comes from. It seems to a laymen that connecting a 12 ga wire to the same spot a much heavier gauge wire comes from tells me more current is coming through that breaker than I should be carrying with 12 ga wire. So does that heavy gauge wire carry more current into the module and then step it down before sending it out to the manual switches, slides, awning , etc? Or am I way off here? I have added to pics, one showing the power wire going into the module at top left, the other picture showing the module power wire coming from the auto reset breaker along with the green wire which is now the + wire for the manual switches. Is this OK? Thanks!



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Old 06-13-2014, 12:39 AM   #18
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bump - sorry to bump this again, but we are leaving tomorrow for the beach and I was hoping to get some expert input on my electrical question about the + switch for the manual rocker switches. I don't want to use them if where I am wired is a bad idea. Thanks!
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Old 06-13-2014, 05:30 AM   #19
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by akf15e


Also, based on Carl's suggestion above, I was able to disconnect the + wire for the manual switches and bypass the control module and confirm that all rocker switches now work. However, seeing as my electrical know-how is slim at best, I am not sure where to permanently connect the + wire. I know I don't want to connect directly to the battery, but I'm not sure where is best. Right now it is connected to the same side of the auto-reset 40A breaker where the power wire for the entire remote module comes from. It seems to a laymen that connecting a 12 ga wire to the same spot a much heavier gauge wire comes from tells me more current is coming through that breaker than I should be carrying with 12 ga wire. So does that heavy gauge wire carry more current into the module and then step it down before sending it out to the manual switches, slides, awning , etc? Or am I way off here? I have added to pics, one showing the power wire going into the module at top left, the other picture showing the module power wire coming from the auto reset breaker along with the green wire which is now the + wire for the manual switches. Is this OK? Thanks!



Assuming your remote is working properly with the original heavier wire to the power side of the module, I would remove the green wire you have added to the manual switches and see if you have 12V at the + side of the manual switches, if there is power then I would be suspicious of the ground wire there. There should be power to the manual switches at all times internally through the module from the power side connection on the module, if there isn't then there is some problem in the module, or perhaps with ground.

If you remove the green wire and have no power at the manual switches I would make a small jumper and connect between the + on the "power" connection to the + on the "manual" switch side. I would also check where both connections go to ground and if the "manual" switch does not have a wire to ground I would add one to the same ground point as the "power" side. More often than not it is a ground problem.

I have absolutely no concerns about being able to use the manual and remote at the same time, I am the only one who uses those controls and in my tests they don't work at the same time anyway. However in your current configuration they will work at the same time.

If everything is working with your current configuration, then I would leave it as is until you complete your trip or arrive at your destination and then do further checks. The green wire is capable of handling the current you would be using to the manual switches.










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Old 06-13-2014, 05:45 AM   #20
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Hi

The sizes fuse required depends on the wire size.

I removed my wireless module when the trailer was about 1 year old. I protected everything except the hydraulic pump with a 30 amp inline fuse. Then protected the rear stabilizers, awning and front landing gear with fuses of the correct sizes for the wires to them. Then a few months ago I installed a second landing gear motor on the passenger side of the trailer, I have now protected the wiring with 30amp Auto breakers on all four wires 2 at each motor and the one to the main relay for a total of 5 30amp auto breakers.

I also have a 100amp fuse on my battery to protect all of the 12v wiring in the trailer.

I am more concerned with a short to ground somewhere in the 12 v wiring system than I am in protecting any particular appliance. This is for fire protection.

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