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Old 05-23-2014, 01:47 AM   #1
rich6506547
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electrical? ??

When pluged in to 50amp everything is fine all is running. But unpluged frig well not switch to gas well not run on battery. 12 volt lights well not turn on had batteries checked and they were good. Need advice I am missing something? ?
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Old 05-23-2014, 01:58 AM   #2
bw2
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check the battery shut off switch. I have a 3400 and it is located in the convience center. provide a model number and others may help as well. check the circuit breakers as well for a tripped breaker
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Old 05-23-2014, 02:23 AM   #3
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shut off is off?
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Old 05-23-2014, 12:13 PM   #4
DQDick
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The wording on our battery shut off (and I think most of them) is confusing. On means the battery is disconnected.
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Old 05-23-2014, 12:34 PM   #5
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I took a magic marker and worded it like I wanted. My old mind couldn't work out what the switch said.
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Old 05-23-2014, 06:21 PM   #6
rich6506547
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Checked battery shutoff and it is not off unless there is somethintg wrong with it. Is that something that could happen ??
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Old 05-23-2014, 06:34 PM   #7
Irlpguy
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Since no one else has mentioned it, I would check the reverse polarity fuses in your converter. If for some reason the battery were momentarily connected incorrectly these would go and you would have no 12V power to the rig when not plugged into shore power.

Unlikely the battery cut off switch has gone west, they are pretty basic and if not used often they are not likely to be a problem.

Hope this might help.


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Old 05-24-2014, 04:59 AM   #8
Samiterry
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by DQDick

The wording on our battery shut off (and I think most of them) is confusing. On means the battery is disconnected.
I understand what you're saying, and agree it is confusing, because on ours, with the disconnect in the "OFF" position, lights out. With it in the "ON" position, lights on. AND, slides work in either position. All this with shore power unplugged. Keystone needs to learn a new word, "CONSISTENCY" !
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Old 05-27-2014, 11:00 AM   #9
Thunderman
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As Tripguy mentioned, check the two 30 amp fuses on your converter. Replace even though they may look good.
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Old 06-09-2014, 03:28 PM   #10
rich6506547
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Changed the fuzzes no changes there still no 12amp when unpluded from shore. Power been on the road no chance to check in.
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Old 09-15-2014, 06:14 PM   #11
Art-n-Marge
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Okay, I DO NOT have a disconnect switch. I have a blade style disconnect I installed for the batteries and use this to completely isolate the battery from the rig. When connected to shore power, I can use 12v and 110v stuff like fridge, all interior lights, slide outs, landing gear, etc.

However, when disconnecting the shore power all interior 12v stuff no longer works (can't run the fridge with propane, slideouts don't work, no interior lights, etc). The rig exterior lights and brakes work but I think that comes from the TV. This used to work. The solo 12v battery is GOOD! That was the first thing I checked. Since the converter is working, that is I get 12v when it is on from the shore power, I don't know what else to look for.

To simplify, I am plugged into shore power and with other 12v lighting turned on and the fridge on Auto currently running on AC and the propane turned on, when I unplug the shore power, the whole interior goes dark and the fridge turns off (does not switch to propane). No 12v, and if the slides are out, then don't move AT ALL, I must plug back into shore power to retract the slides. I haven't checked the status of the propane detector (hardwired to the battery) and didn't test the landing legs specifically, but this USED to work, when unplugging, the fridge would switch to propane and I could still operate the slideouts.

Does anyone have any ideas? To get more visibility maybe I should have created this in its own topic, but the problems seems related to this.

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Old 09-15-2014, 06:34 PM   #12
davidaf
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Curious, when you are on shore power are you getting 13+ volts to the battery?
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Old 09-16-2014, 01:06 PM   #13
Art-n-Marge
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Davidaf, if you are asking me, I am getting 13+ volts when on shore power and when the shore power is disconnected, the battery is about 12.8, so the battery is good.

I am thinking it's about whatever happens when there is an autoswitchover electrically, when the shore power goes away the battery is supposed to takeover, but there has to be some "electronic device" that allows this that has failed and I don't know what it's called or what else to check, or what to debug. Fortunately the only thing this prevents is that I cannot run any 12v devices while enroute with the TV, but we're working around it just fine and we don't boondock. At a site we seek full hookups so we are not inconvenienced.
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Old 09-16-2014, 01:31 PM   #14
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Suggest starting: Measure for 12v on the fuse panel. To ensure the 12v from the battery is reaching the fuse panel. (Possible inline fuse from the battery to the panel?)
Use a volt/ohm meter and verify the 30 amp fuses are truly good, and/or replace with new fuses.

Since you indicate the 12v system (lights & refig, etc...) goes dark when unplugged from shore power, it would appear to be somewhere from the battery to the panel.

Good luck.
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Old 09-16-2014, 05:50 PM   #15
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Art I was trying to figure out if power was actually making it to the battery from the converter/charger. Which it is so the next step would be to check the voltage at the distribution panel to make sure power was making it there then check all the fuses including the reverse polarity fuse (removing the fuses and checking voltage). After that I'd be calling a mobile guy to come out because electricity kinda freaks me out and i'd be expecting to replace the converter. Hopefully somebody else has a better answer.

BTW, our home base is in Aguanga a short trip from Murrieta. Not sure if you've been out to Rancho California Resort but if you ever plan to head out there drop me a note. We are usually there every month or every other month for a couple weeks. I've had good experience with a mobile guy out of the Temecula area if interested. I have no affiliation in any way I've just used him a couple times as have others in my home park. He's not the cheapest but he does good work and it avoids dropping off the rig for service.
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Old 09-17-2014, 02:08 AM   #16
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I have a battery load tester, a battery can read high voltage, but when a load is put on it, the meter will dip way down to 'replace' I suspect this is the case. Take a specific gravity tester and check each cell.

http://freeasestudyguides.com/batter...vity-test.html

http://autorepair.about.com/library/.../aa101604c.htm

http://batteryloadtester.net/




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Old 09-17-2014, 05:03 AM   #17
paulinbaja
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The problem most likely is between your battery and the converter or between the battery and ground.

Have someone familiar with a volt meter or a test light verify the battery connection where it enters the converter. Do this unplugged from shore power. If there is not power check the ground wire to the chassis and be certain there is no corrosion at the battery or the chassis. Also check the positive post of the battery for corrosion. Checking from the positive side of the battery to ground will verify the ground connection. If that is good follow the "HOT" wire and check it at every device. There is a fuse in the line near the battery very likely to be the issue. There is usually a "self resetting breaker" in the line sometimes they fail to reset. Continue on the "HOT" wire until there is no power and fix the device where it stops.

There are two fuses on the converter, check them. Usually there is not a problem inside the converter if it is converting as yours is.

Good luck
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Old 09-19-2014, 07:22 AM   #18
Art-n-Marge
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Thanks for the ideas... I am quite comfortable with electricity and can try these suggestions. Give me a few days and I'll try to provide status. We are now babysittiing a two year grandson in the rig, who has never been away from both parents. It's going better than expected but he has his moments.

Davidaf, Aguanga, eh? We are practically neighbors. We have our stickhouse in Murrieta, but have our rig at Wilderness Lakes in Menifee (members of 1000 Trails). I know of the campground you mention, but our 1000 Trails (TT) membership allows us to camp for free so we rarely go outside their system. We are heading out toward Gilroy, CA about 300 miles north to RV with other family RVers for October, but we come back to our home in Wilderness Lakes as often as we can.

Again, thanks for all the suggestions. So far, it is all within my technical abilities. I'm guessing this is something I should be able to figure out and avoid a mobile tech call. If that fails, I might call my BIL in Riverside for some help. He loves working on crap like that, and THEN it's time for the mobile tech (cha-ching).
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Old 09-19-2014, 02:26 PM   #19
jcurtis934
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I have never seen an rv without a battery disconnect switch. There has to be one somewhere in the unit. What you are experiencing is the correct symptoms for the switch in the off position, which is the position where the red "key" can be removed. John
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Old 09-19-2014, 03:18 PM   #20
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There is no battery disconnect switch on my Montana. Don't remember when they started adding them but it was after 06. Jim
Quote:
quote:Originally posted by jcurtis934

I have never seen an rv without a battery disconnect switch. There has to be one somewhere in the unit. What you are experiencing is the correct symptoms for the switch in the off position, which is the position where the red "key" can be removed. John
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