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01-23-2014, 04:38 AM
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#1
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Seasoned Camper
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: kingston
Posts: 73
M.O.C. #12000
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Pex lines in the control center
Well we are still learning about our 2007 2955RL. I was winterizing it using compressed air at 40 psi and noticed two pex lines with on/off valves which exited the box and drained on the ground. I opened each of them and very little water escaped. What are these for? Also, is there any way to drain the hot water tank other than removing the anode plug? Thank you all in advance for you help.
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01-23-2014, 04:42 AM
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#2
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Montana Master
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location:
Posts: 724
M.O.C. #10948
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They are the low drainage points for your hot and cold water lines.
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01-23-2014, 04:47 AM
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#3
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Montana Master
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Harford
Posts: 948
M.O.C. #7122
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The BEST way (and I believe the only way) to drain the hot water heater is to remove the anode rod but be sure that the heater is OFF!!
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01-23-2014, 06:20 AM
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#4
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Montana Master
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Murrieta
Posts: 5,816
M.O.C. #9257
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The Pex lines you refer too are known as low point drains and it's wise those help drain some water, but when I use mine, there's just the faintest trickle of water.
Not only turn off the water heater as recommended... wait a little bit to allow the water to cool, too. Most times you've already turned off the WH on the way home, but if it's a short trip, then watch out. This is advice from one who felt the burn!
I have a couple of basins that I put on top of furniture movers to catch as much water as I can, then wait until it is cold to the touch, and water the plants with it. I live in a drought prone area so letting water just drop to the ground seems criminal. Your situation may vary.
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01-23-2014, 07:04 AM
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#5
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Montana Master
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Chilliwack
Posts: 1,520
M.O.C. #12935
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As Art said they are the low point drains and actually are very handy. When I hook up in the campground I open the cold one and let a little water run to clear the hose of anything that might have gotten in there before opening an inside tap. It also works well to refill the HW heater when it is empty, rather than running in and out of the RV you can open the hot water valve and when full water is flowing full you know the tank is full. You can then go inside and drain the air from the lines by opening the HW taps.
Removing the anode plug is the only way to completely drain the HW heater, you should try to flush it at that time as well.
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01-23-2014, 08:16 AM
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#6
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Site Team
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Wilsey
Posts: 18,799
M.O.C. #11455
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Just don't remove the anode rod without turning the water off (probably only a full timers problem). You will get a flush and a flying anode rod all at the same time. You can guess how I know.
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Dick, Joyce, Diego, Picatso and Gustav
2017 3720 RL, and 2013 HC 343RL
Pullrite Hitch, IS, Disk Brakes, 3rd AC, Winegard Traveler, Bathroom door mod, Dometic 320, couch for desk swap, replaced chairs, sun screens, added awnings, etc.
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01-23-2014, 12:27 PM
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#7
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: gresham
Posts: 489
M.O.C. #11202
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If you just remove the drain plug with a full tank, you're going to get wet, especially if it is still pressurized. Maybe not so wet if de-pressurized, but you will probably get wet still.
Draining the hot water tank, the easy way:
To drain the hot water heater via the low point drain.
1. Make sure to turn off the water heater, on both the electric and the propane sides.
2. Turn off the water supply, city supply and/or 12 volt water pump.
3. Open the low point drains.
4. Open the hot water heater cover on the outside of the trailer.
5. Locate and pull the lever on the pressure valve/vent so that it stays horizontal. (if you don't do this, the tank will not empty out of the low point drain)
6. Wait until tank is drained. (15 to 20 minutes or so, never actually timed it though)
7. Re-set the pressure valve/vent lever to the closed position.
8. Remove sacrificial anode rod/drain plug, inspect and re-use or get a new one if it is too far gone.
9. Rinse out the tank with a spray wand through the drain hole and let it drain.
10. Replace anode/drain plug.
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01-23-2014, 12:45 PM
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#8
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Portland
Posts: 1,107
M.O.C. #8045
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Follow the previously mentioned instructions, MAKE SURE THE PRESSURE HAS BEEN RELEASED!
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01-23-2014, 05:45 PM
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#9
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Renton
Posts: 362
M.O.C. #13959
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by DQDick
Just don't remove the anode rod without turning the water off (probably only a full timers problem). You will get a flush and a flying anode rod all at the same time. You can guess how I know.
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I love so many of the responses on this site. This is just an example of one of them. I really wish there were "like" buttons or some quick positive response, because I come home from work and read these and just laugh! A great end to the day!
I do the same, open the low point drains, open the faucets, crack the high pressure relief on the HWT, then flush with 40-50 PSI from an air compressor. At the very end I remove the anode plug and make sure the water is all gone. Usually only a small amount comes out.
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01-23-2014, 06:50 PM
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#10
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Seasoned Camper
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Morro Bay
Posts: 98
M.O.C. #1972
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by DQDick
Just don't remove the anode rod without turning the water off (probably only a full timers problem). You will get a flush and a flying anode rod all at the same time. You can guess how I know.
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Been there, done that, have the wet T-Shirt, pants and shoes.
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