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Old 04-27-2022, 08:37 PM   #1
Yoquedo
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Broken Spring

Well.... So far we have managed to break a hanger on a spring and now a spring itself on the other side of trailer. (*We have a 2018.5 3791rd Legacy with 7k axles.) I need to get this repaired asap for a pending trip we made reservations for last year! I thinking of replacing everything new at this point. It has been in the shop here in Houston for a month and today they tell me they can't get a replacement spring until the end of May! Anyone have any other thoughts in getting this repaired?

Does anyone know the spring p/n, size / length ? Maybe I could then call a local "spring shop" to replace all 4 of them with new HD hangers.

Thanks for any ideas!
 
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Old 04-27-2022, 08:41 PM   #2
rames14
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Any spring/suspension shop should be able to fix you up. We broke a spring in Alaska and a local repair shop fixed it the same day. Best of luck getting it fixed.
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Old 04-28-2022, 09:37 AM   #3
Rondo
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If I'm not mistaken the spring # is 072-097-00 OR you can use 072-100-01. Both are 4K springs
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Old 04-28-2022, 04:09 PM   #4
Yoquedo
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Thanks guys,
I went back to "stealership" today and picked up my trailer. I took it to a local spring shop and will get it back tomorrow with 4 new springs! I am also having new HD hanger brackets installed.
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Old 04-28-2022, 05:42 PM   #5
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I had many spring problems on our 2017 3720 . Then on the way back from Arizona we broke two springs near St. Louis Missouri and took it to a large dealer in Hazelwood, Missouri, which is part of the St. Louis area. The good news is that we were on the road the next afternoon . The bad news is that we were charged $2200.00 for the 4 springs, installed before tax. The worst news was that about 250 miles north the rear axle turned about 30 degrees, the driver's tirewas cut on the middle support, and our progress was stopped. I was able to stop at the side of the interstate. In the rain, I put the unit completely off the ground with the auto level and was able to reposition the axle, reattach it to the spring and drive to a safe spot off the highway. I had to tighten all the nuts on the U bolts and then go on. I said to Gayle that the only place I'll drive the trailer after this trip will be to Morryde for IS and disc brakes which was done the following Sept. Since then we have been from our home in Ontario Canada to Loreto Mexico twice with no further suspension problems. Towing is not a nightmare anymore.
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Old 04-28-2022, 05:44 PM   #6
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Forgot to include the stealer's name:. Apache Village RV St. Louis
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Old 04-29-2022, 08:54 AM   #7
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springs are simple to get. call dexter axle.

as for the I/S system it is great if you have the extra $5000+ amount in your pocket
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Old 04-29-2022, 09:28 AM   #8
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Granted the IS is pricey, but look at the number of people who have put Band-Aid after Band-Aid on their suspension system.
If a short haul Week-ender probably not worth it, but if Full Timer/Long Timer with lots of miles it pays for it's self with no suspension problems.
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Old 05-04-2022, 01:34 PM   #9
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What to look for?

Hey Guys,

I’m glad the OP brought this up. We have a 2016 Montana, purchased used in 2018, and have been full-timing since. I inspect the underside frequently but in truth I don’t know what I’m looking for when it comes to any hints that the suspension / springs might be beginning to fail. I look for anything obvious by looking for clean metal or loose bolts or pieces obviously out of place. Is there anything else I should specifically look for to try to avoid a failure? Thanks!
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Old 05-04-2022, 01:43 PM   #10
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If you are able to get the Dexter axle part number off the label on the axle tube, Dexter can send you a spec sheet that has the spring part number, You might want to consider upgrading the spring capacity by 500 lbs if it will fit. Dexter can advise on this too. They did me right.
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Old 05-04-2022, 01:51 PM   #11
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Rick-Sr, grab your torque wrench, set at 75 ft lbs, I believe a 9/16” socket and torque your bolts. (Going from memory with torque/size). Look for springs out of position, or cracks. Good luck.
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Old 05-04-2022, 02:58 PM   #12
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Before I upgraded to the MorRyde I/S, I used to keep 4-6 extra leaf springs and U bolt kits in the truck. At least once a year, I would bust through a spring or two, even though we were at or below max weight rating. With the parts on hand, I was ready to get back on the road in 30 minutes! I even upgraded to the seven-leaf springs (from the six-leaves that were original equipment). It is not difficult to change out the U bolt and insert a new leaf spring. I even had the fun task of doing it at a service plaza once!

After every trip, I looked at each leaf spring to see if there were any leaves shifting, and most importantly if all of the leaf bolts were still in place. The attached photo points at the bolts on top and bottom of the leaf springs. These bolts were the usual failure point for me. When the bolt breaks, you can still travel a little further if needed, but at some point comes the catastrophic failure when that wheel disconnects from the RV body.

When I finally installed the MorRyde I/S, I also upgraded to 8K axles and beefier wheels, to get the added margin to our overall weight. It was well worth the price for the peace of mind that came with getting rid of those leaf springs.
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Old 05-04-2022, 03:20 PM   #13
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Been there done that multiple times. I've had the wet bolts break Fallout and or bend badly. So I replaced the entire shooting match new Springs new wet bolt kit U bolts Whole Nine Yards. Similar problems afterwards.
If you want my opinion don't waste another Penny on the horse and buggy suspension. Get it to more I'd like I did in June of 20 your problems will be over. Yeah it's pricey however so is breaking down in the middle of nowhere multiple times and either having to get the whole rig towed or have somebody come out on the side of the road to fix it.
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Old 05-05-2022, 08:40 AM   #14
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Every year I check every bolt under the RV to see if it’s tight. This year I look it over. Pull the brake hubs and pack the wheel bearings. All looked great. While I’m down there I put a torque wrench on the U bolts and all the Wet bolts that go through each spring. Once again. Everything looked normal. When I started to tighten the wet bolt the nut started turning. The head of the bolt was not turning. I look closer and see that the threads and the nut are turning. The bolt is broken inside the spring mount. I always carry new bolts and bushings. So I can easily fix it myself. But if I hadn’t put a wrench on it, I would not have known it was broken inside the spring. I’m positive it would have fallen out on our next 1000 mile trip next week. This would have been a disaster with a loose axle flopping around under there. Glad I found it. This is the 4 th bolt I’ve replaced in 5 years.
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Old 05-05-2022, 09:31 AM   #15
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And I bet money, it snapped right at the grease hole.
Seems I've read about a lot of broken wet bolts and everone has snapped right at the drilled grease hole.
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Old 05-05-2022, 09:39 AM   #16
182flyer
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Suspension issues: OK, you all have my attention. Bought our 2013 Mountaineer new and recently retired, sold Mountaineer and bought 2022 HC 295RL. No problems (that I know of) with Mountaineer basically full timing for 5 years-working west TX. Now, two approx 3000 mile no schedule trips per year plus a couple of shorter long weekend trips.

Where can I find torque values for suspension wet bolts and spring bolts? Should I order any parts direct from Dexter or are aftermarket (ex Red Neck Trailers) vendors typically selling same quality hardware?
Thanks for info and very good posts.
Jack
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Old 05-05-2022, 12:33 PM   #17
Randy E
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On our 3791RD here is the bolt information.
The MORryde wet bolt kit that you will need is UO12-016.*
*This normally sells for $107.99
Torque wet bolt to 50 ft lb.
grease hole sideways. 9 or 3 o’clock.
MORryde International, Inc. 
‪1966 Sterling Avenue‬
‪Elkhart, Indiana 46516‬
: ‪(574) 293-1581 ext. 1212‬
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Old 05-05-2022, 06:24 PM   #18
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For everyone following this thread ... some clarification on spring hanger bolts whether they be wet bolts or standard spring hanger bolts. The head of spring hanger bolts is serrated and grips the hole drilled in the hanger itself. The bolt itself should never turn, nor should you try to turn it with a wrench. Always tighten the nut only on the spring hanger bolts. Either tap the spring hanger bolt in to where the head is flush to the hanger bracket or pull it flush with the nut.
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Old 05-06-2022, 03:31 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dieselguy View Post
For everyone following this thread ... some clarification on spring hanger bolts whether they be wet bolts or standard spring hanger bolts. The head of spring hanger bolts is serrated and grips the hole drilled in the hanger itself. The bolt itself should never turn, nor should you try to turn it with a wrench. Always tighten the nut only on the spring hanger bolts. Either tap the spring hanger bolt in to where the head is flush to the hanger bracket or pull it flush with the nut.
Absolutely correct and well stated
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Old 05-06-2022, 05:03 AM   #20
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Don't want to hijack the thread, but I have a quick question. Has anyone turned the wet bolt around so that the grease zerk points to the inside of the trailer?
I have several that are hard to get to without pulling the tires. I bought a Lock-n-lube coupler and even an expensive 90 degree fitting, but it is still hard to reach a few of them. I've read elsewhere that some turn the bolt around so that the zerk is exposed from underneath to make this job easier.
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