Water heater only warm

[bigbob7777]

My water heater just started only putting out warm water when on A/C. when on gas, water is hot.

Any ideas?

bob

[jjackflash]

Have you checked the circuit breaker?
Jack

[bncinwv]

I believe I would pull the element and give it a look (if it is pulled there should be one continuous loop on the element side), or if you have a multimeter, disconnect wires at the element and check for continuity in the element itself. If it is not the breaker, I would think it has to be the element. Is the warm water running after you have heated the tank with gas, if so then you are getting the warm water that is left from the gas heating the water up?? It doesn't take long for the cold water inflow to cool off the hot water and make it warm. Hope this helps, let us know what you find.
Bingo

[Jdrobone]

Read voltage across the heater element. Should be 117V or thereabouts. If voltage is not present and breaker is good then check/replace thermostat. If voltage is present - turn the power off, disconnect the neutral wire from the element,cut power back on and again read between post on the element(where you removed the wire) and the end of the disconnected neutral wire-again should be line voltage, if not heater element is "open" and needs replacement.

[bigbob7777]

How do I "pull the element". Also, how do I find the element wires? I do know how to read a voltmeter. Just don't know about the Suburban heater.

Circuit breaker appears fine, not tripped.

bob

[bigbob7777]

Bingo,

Where did you get the John 3:16 banner? I would love one.

bob

[bncinwv]

Here is my link to it on Photobucket. You should be able to download it to your computer or just use is as it is:
http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/f...40/2ztg10o.gif
There is a black plastic oval cover on the outside of the water heater held on by three screws. Remove that cover and you will see the element underneath. Follow jdrobone's directions for testing the element without removing it, or remove the element and give it a look. It will be obvious if it is bad.
Bingo

[bigbob7777]

Figured it out. Ran voltage check across 2 leads on element - 0 volts.

then pulled on/off switch out and ran check on 2 leads (jumping them), 117 volts.

Replaced on/off switch, 117 volts and all is well.

thanks all for suggestions. I hate these nuisance repairs.

bob

[H. John Kohl]

Sorry, I forgot I had to replace my on/off switch on the hot water heater too. That is a weak link. Glad you were able to trace it down and replace it.
Good on ya.

[grooving grandpa]

Bob,

If you are using shore power, make sure your on/off switch is on BEFORE connecting to land power. This happen to me also. Those cheap switches do not like the surge if you turn it on after connecting to shore power.

[bigbob7777]

Thanks to all for your help and suggestions.

bob

[MuddyPaws]

That pesky little cheap A$$ switch! I had exactly the same problem last year. I replaced the switch, and turned it on never intending to switch it off again. I added a lighted switch inside our Monty which does the same thing.

[stimpy123]

Gang,
In the statements shown "turn the switch on before connecting to shore power", I wondered about the second switch that I have to turn on at my control panel inside the rig. There are two switches for the water heater, one for propane and the other for the electric. I only turn the hot water heater to electric, when I'm connected to 50 amp service. I first turn it on inside the water heater door, and then place the lighted switch to on to apply 110v to the water heater. This all happens after I hook up to the shore power, and I reverse the sequence upon disconnecting for travel. Hope this helps.
Steve

[kmh3212]

I had to replace that little on off switch in the water heater cabinet as well. I went head and bought an elemnent and replacement tool from Lowes. Im think that cost me about $20. More stuff for my spare parts bin.