low wattage kitchen appliances?

[Ozzie]

In an effort to try and work with the electrical restrictions in our kitchen I am wondering if lower wattage items like toasters and coffee makers will help make a difference. I have seen these appliances ranging from 700 watts to 1100. I wouldn't mind waiting a couple minutes for lower wattage units if I don't pop those beakers.
Forgive me for being ignorant with electricity, I am better with hammers and power tools...
I haven't yet dug into the wiring and what I can do to spread the electrical load in the morning at breakfast time, but I'd like to eliminate the 'chase the breaker' routine.

[Ozz]

Ozzie, you wouldn't gain much, and we don't want to frustrate the cook......
See my post yesterday on adding the outlet tied to the microwave circuit, (it's own 20 amp. circuit) this will help.
I have my electric heater running on the kitchen circuit, and the Coffee maker is on....cool.

[Ozzie]

I did see that Ozz...I sure wish I had your skills with electricity. I didn't realize that was on it's own breaker but that would certainly be a step in the right direction and a big help in our kitchen.

I really need to get that load spread out more. I rarely pop the main breaker at the post even at 30 amp, but the kitchen really takes a hit. That would be high on my spring to do list.
Thanks.

[richfaa]

Low amp appliances would be a Good thing in a camper...Using our kill o watt meter I measured the amps on every appliance and marked it on the appliance so we would know what we are using and how many we can use at the same time...50 amps may sound like a lot...but it is not. Example Central vac 11.2 amps, toaster 10.2 amps it adds up fast..

[Ozz]

Ozzie,
In my Keystone Sprinter Travel trailer, I added an outlet in the kitchen, this may work for you, it really is not hard, just get a 30 foot extension cord, (or whatever length you choose) 14-3 minimum, 12-3 best. Attach a surface mount 2x4 box with outlet, and run the extension cord out the bottom of the trailer, plug into the 20 amp outlet on the post, and you have your extra 15-20 amp feed for the Coffee maker or heater.
Or, just get a cord set like a person plugs his computer into, with 4 or 5 spaces, mount that in the kitchen, and run your 12-3 extension cord to the electrical post's 20 amp outlet. Simple-cave man stuff.
Keep the wires heavy, don't go the 16 gage extension route, and ALWAYS use a 3 wire cord.
Good luck, buddy.
Oh, I always asked if I could use the extra plug in on the power pole, most c.g.'s were happy, as it was splitting the supply to my trailer, I was never denied.
Ozz

[Steve and Brenda]

I agree with Ozz and this is one of the first modifications any Montana owner should consider. When completed, my installed outlets will run throughout the trailer in the bedroom, kitchen and living room for heater usage. Certainly use 12-3 cord outside and 12-3 inside the vehicle. The cord may be a little heavier and harder to stow when cold but when it comes to electric current you need as much copper as possible!

The only snag is when a campground ties their 20 Amp auxiliary outlet on the power pedestal off the main 30 Amp (or 50 Amp) breaker. I was at a COE campsite not too long ago where I opened up the power box because I popped the main breake after plugging some lights into the 20 Amp and sure enough - the supply for that breaker was off the 30 Amp breaker making that outlet about useless.

[Ozzie]

Thanks for that suggestion Ozz, and for the subsequent comments.
That does sound like a very good idea, and one I'll more than likely need to do.
I'd like to isolate the toaster/coffee pot along with a space heater. Getting those off the kitchen circuit would remove the 'chasing the breaker' syndrome we currently have at breakfast time.
The maddening part about it is we usually have a movie on and that is also on the same circuit. It makes me think those other breakers have very little on them.
I was hoping this could be done internally rather than adding a separate line outside possibly by adding a couple breakers.

[Ozz]

Just do not increase the size of the breaker. Many do, or are tempted.
It's fine if you change it out for the same amp. rating, sometimes the cheap ones we have get weak. (And ours are cheap.)
The best way is to have someone amp out the circuit under load at the breaker, with an amp meter to see what you are really pulling. (Sears has a nice little one that also has 12 volt settings for checking voltage, I have one)
It is good to have an amperage chart posting the different amperage's of the appliances we use in out trailers.
Then it's just simple math.
(On edit, I see my wise friend Rich had posted much the same info as I just blabbed.)
Ozz

[Dustytuu]

quote:The only snag is when a campground ties their 20 Amp auxiliary outlet on the power pedestal off the main 30 Amp (or 50 Amp) breaker. I was at a COE campsite not too long ago where I opened up the power box because I popped the main breake after plugging some lights into the 20 Amp and sure enough - the supply for that breaker was off the 30 Amp breaker making that outlet about useless.

If anyone sees a campground that does this..... Don said this is illegal. Or against the national electrical code. Probably nothing anyone can do about it.

[Steve and Brenda]

Yeah, then they'd be asking why I opened up the panel because I'm not licensed in their area even though I have a slight inkling about electron flow

[Dustytuu]

We were in a park last year that had no ground on pedestal.
Scary for sure. Don made a ground from the water tap source.
We have seen some scary wiring in different parks.