Flooring thickness?

[daveinaz]

Well, having just came through 3 days of solid rain — about 7” or so with Tropical Storm Beta, I found out that our large living room slide is leaking in the corner near the rear of the unit. I never saw any water coming in or dripping, but I discovered that the carpet was wet. As best I can tell, the water is getting in from the seam just behind the face of the slide out. It’s apparently been doing it a while since I found that the flooring in the corner is pretty soft so I’m going to need to replace part of it which leads me to my question. I can also feel a very slight bulge down the side wall of the slide out along the front facing edge. Once I felt it I could see it, but more can feel it not as flat as the same spot on the other end of the slide out.

I want to get the stuff to fix it before I tear into it — some eternabond tape for the seam on top of the slideout, some marine plywood, and some sort of wrap for the replacement piece of plywood. My question is what is the thickness of the flooring? I was thinking it was 3/4” but someone told me he thought it was only 1/2.”

I was looking at some videos of floor repair in the slideouts and saw that there is somewhat of a design flaw in the bottom molding piece in that it allows water to run down and over it and then continue running down and under the slide out into the flooring. So I guess that as long as I’m at it I’ll put in some better flashing on the bottom of the side walls.

Someone mention something called a slide out ski? Or should I just get a little longer piece of flashing to replace that molding with?

Well, it looks like I have more than one question:
-What is the thickness of the flooring, 3/4” or 1/2”?
-What do you recommend to wrap the flooring in?
-Do you recommend painting the plywood with epoxy resin to seal it?
-What do you recommend for replacement molding/flashing along the bottom of the side walls?

Thanks so much guys!

[RMcNeal]

Hey, Dave. Here's my $.02 worth. I believe the flooring is actually 15/32" plywood, so basically 1/2 inch. I would only try to epoxy the outside side of the plywood, and leave any interior surface so that any moisture would not become trapped between the plywood laminations. As for the replacement molding/flashing, check with Trekwood.com and see if they list what should be there. You can enter the year and model number to help narrow down your choices. As far as wrapping the flooring, I'm not sure I understand. Do you mean wrap on the under side of the slide? If so, you could use skrim tape or something similar. Even Tyvek house wrap would work as a moisture barrier as long as it is covered when complete.

[daveinaz]

https://1drv.ms/u/s!AgmNht6gsIbogbhYEosoGPDPmyGcOA

Thanks for the advice on the thickness and epoxy. The current floor is wrapped in a black mesh looking stuff — top and bottom, but yes, I think tyvek would also work. The slideout has its factory molding at the bottom, but I think it’s just a bad design from what I’ve read. Thinking about replacing it with some sort of flashing that actually goes all the way to the bottom (maybe those slide out skis) so the water can just go over it and flow into the bottom of the flooring).

[bleedmichigan]

Originally Posted by daveinaz

https://1drv.ms/u/s!AgmNht6gsIbogbhYEosoGPDPmyGcOA

Thanks for the advice on the thickness and epoxy. The current floor is wrapped in a black mesh looking stuff — top and bottom, but yes, I think tyvek would also work. The slideout has its factory molding at the bottom, but I think it’s just a bad design from what I’ve read. Thinking about replacing it with some sort of flashing that actually goes all the way to the bottom (maybe those slide out skis) so the water can just go over it and flow into the bottom of the flooring).

It is wrapped with this product

https://www.recpro.com/105-wide-rv-u...-coated-black/

I replaced the floor on our dinette slide and epoxy coated it and the wrapped it with this. Works great looks original and it’s cheap and easy to use.

[sourdough]

Be sure and read the warnings on that recpro material listed above. I believe they say that it is not for exposure to the elements or something like that. Here is a link to some slide skis. I was looking into getting them;

https://www.duoformplastics.com/slideoutski1

[daveinaz]

Originally Posted by sourdough

Be sure and read the warnings on that recpro material listed above. I believe they say that it is not for exposure to the elements or something like that. Here is a link to some slide skis. I was looking into getting them;

https://www.duoformplastics.com/slideoutski1

Yes, I read that the recpro material was for stationary rigs but I was thinking that if it’s on the slideout and the slideout is retracted when moving then it may be okay since it’ll be underneath the underlayment when moving?

[beeje]

Originally Posted by daveinaz

https://1drv.ms/u/s!AgmNht6gsIbogbhYEosoGPDPmyGcOA

Thanks for the advice on the thickness and epoxy. The current floor is wrapped in a black mesh looking stuff — top and bottom, but yes, I think tyvek would also work. The slideout has its factory molding at the bottom, but I think it’s just a bad design from what I’ve read. Thinking about replacing it with some sort of flashing that actually goes all the way to the bottom (maybe those slide out skis) so the water can just go over it and flow into the bottom of the flooring).

This is our 3rd camper and I wrapped all of the slides joints on all 3 with Eturnabond tape from the get go. 2" Piece across the bottom over the trim/ then 2" piece up the side over all the screws overlapping the bottom piece. Then 4" piece across the top over the trim and up onto the slide roof/ overlapping the side piece. Then 4" piece all the way across the top and over the edge overlapping it all.

[Mikelff]

Originally Posted by beeje

This is our 3rd camper and I wrapped all of the slides joints on all 3 with Eturnabond tape from the get go. 2" Piece across the bottom over the trim/ then 2" piece up the side over all the screws overlapping the bottom piece. Then 4" piece across the top over the trim and up onto the slide roof/ overlapping the side piece. Then 4" piece all the way across the top and over the edge overlapping it all.

Did you go over all the screws or take them out first then back through the tape? How would you get the screws out if needed? Sounds like a good idea though.

[beeje]

Originally Posted by Mikelff

Did you go over all the screws or take them out first then back through the tape? How would you get the screws out if needed? Sounds like a good idea though.

I went over all the screws. That's kind of the purpose since a lot of leaks are caused by water following the screw threads. You can still easily identify where the screws are it wouldn't be any problem to take them out. But I doubt you would ever have to do that

[daveinaz]

Well, as it turns out, the floor in the slide out was 3/4” plywood, not 5/8 or 1/2. I ended up replacing about 16.5 inches on one end of it. Looking up into the wall of the slide out from the bottom, I could see that the inside of the wall has gotten wet. I can’t determine if the water leached up the wall from the floor or if the water came down the inside of the wall to the floor. I’m pretty sure it was from the floor, but I need to open up the interior wall for it to dry out. It appears that the interior wall board is glued to the aluminum studs . I kind of doubt that there’s a way to pull it from the studs without destroying it so I guess I’ll try to cut it between the studs and then somehow patch back in the pieces that I cut out.

[beeje]

Originally Posted by daveinaz

Well, as it turns out, the floor in the slide out was 3/4” plywood, not 5/8 or 1/2. I ended up replacing about 16.5 inches on one end of it. Looking up into the wall of the slide out from the bottom, I could see that the inside of the wall has gotten wet. I can’t determine if the water leached up the wall from the floor or if the water came down the inside of the wall to the floor. I’m pretty sure it was from the floor, but I need to open up the interior wall for it to dry out. It appears that the interior wall board is glued to the aluminum studs . I kind of doubt that there’s a way to pull it from the studs without destroying it so I guess I’ll try to cut it between the studs and then somehow patch back in the pieces that I cut out.

I seriously doubt it wikked up that far. My guess is it either came from the top seam on the side where that molding is or around a window.

If I was you I would do like I stated any turn them on all them seams and joints along with resealing around the windows with silicone or pull them out and reseal them all together

[jimcol]

Originally Posted by daveinaz

Well, as it turns out, the floor in the slide out was 3/4” plywood, not 5/8 or 1/2. I ended up replacing about 16.5 inches on one end of it. Looking up into the wall of the slide out from the bottom, I could see that the inside of the wall has gotten wet. I can’t determine if the water leached up the wall from the floor or if the water came down the inside of the wall to the floor. I’m pretty sure it was from the floor, but I need to open up the interior wall for it to dry out. It appears that the interior wall board is glued to the aluminum studs . I kind of doubt that there’s a way to pull it from the studs without destroying it so I guess I’ll try to cut it between the studs and then somehow patch back in the pieces that I cut out.

Dave, I am fighting a leak issue also. I know first hand that the wall paneling will in fact leach water from the floor. Mine did, probably 11 to 12 inches up the wall. Luckily it was inside the cabinet so not visible. Mine is on an exterior wall so it is foam filled. Removing the paneling is just going to expose a foam block. I just left the cabinet open with a fan blowing on it for a couple of days. Came dry to the touch.
If my problem was on a hollow interior wall I would remove the panel from the floor up to just above the aluminum plate that the studs are welded to. Think that is 1.5" tube. Once open use a fan and force air in for a few days to aide in the drying. Then you could repair the opening with a wider piece of baseboard. I used .75"X4" pvc trim painted a color that closely matched paneling. Easier than trying to patch back the pieces that you cut out. Good luck.

[Mikelff]

Depending on how large an opening, a hair dryer will work well. Forces heated dry air in there to speed drying. Don’t leave it unattended.

[RMcNeal]

The outside walls are laminated together, studs and all before being built into the slide out. There are several videos on YouTube that show how Keystone makes these things. If i recall correctly, the outside wall, the aluminum studs with insulation and the interior wall board are glued and compressed in a plant after being cut to size by a CNC computerized machine.

[KJT]

Didn't read all responses.
But my choice for replacement flooring would
be Advantec . I have pieces outside in the weather for two years and it still measures the same thickness. Incredible stuff.

[jimcol]

Originally Posted by Mikelff

Depending on how large an opening, a hair dryer will work well. Forces heated dry air in there to speed drying. Don’t leave it unattended.

You are correct. I started with a heat gun but thought I could better use the time for other chores. Turned the fan on and left it for a couple of days.

[daveinaz]

Well, the slide was leaking from the top seam corner. I learning that there Dicor tape used to seal the slide out top seam isn’t so great. It looked good from the surface but when I started peeling it up I could see that water has been running underneath it. The water came in at the top outer corner of the slide. I removed an L-shaped section of paneling—pretty much floor to ceiling to the left of the window, then to half way across the bottom of the window, and then the entire bottom foot of paneling. It has apparently been leaking for years. However once I opened it up, it dried fairly quickly.

I then finished removing the carpet from the entire slide out. I found that the floor was damp on the opposite side wall as well. The floor is still very solid however. Then I drilled four 1” inspection holes— three along the bottom about three inches up and then up higher up between the window and corner. The wall seems okay and doesn’t seem to be leaking from above so the floor is apparently damp from water soaking into the side of the floorboard.

The floor is all repaired. Now I just have to replace the wallboard on one side and patch the other side where I drilled holes and then paint it.

To prevent the water from soaking into the floor, has anyone installed those slide out skis? They seem a little pricey at $100 for a pair but if they prevent water seepage into the floor I guess they’re worth it.

I’m also thinking about using the ProCore plank flooring from Lowe’s.

[beeje]

Originally Posted by daveinaz

Well, the slide was leaking from the top seam corner. I learning that there Dicor tape used to seal the slide out top seam isn’t so great. It looked good from the surface but when I started peeling it up I could see that water has been running underneath it. The water came in at the top outer corner of the slide. I removed an L-shaped section of paneling—pretty much floor to ceiling to the left of the window, then to half way across the bottom of the window, and then the entire bottom foot of paneling. It has apparently been leaking for years. However once I opened it up, it dried fairly quickly.

I then finished removing the carpet from the entire slide out. I found that the floor was damp on the opposite side wall as well. The floor is still very solid however. Then I drilled four 1” inspection holes— three along the bottom about three inches up and then up higher up between the window and corner. The wall seems okay and doesn’t seem to be leaking from above so the floor is apparently damp from water soaking into the side of the floorboard.

The floor is all repaired. Now I just have to replace the wallboard on one side and patch the other side where I drilled holes and then paint it.

To prevent the water from soaking into the floor, has anyone installed those slide out skis? They seem a little pricey at $100 for a pair but if they prevent water seepage into the floor I guess they’re worth it.

I’m also thinking about using the ProCore plank flooring from Lowe’s.

If you do as I stated earlier in this thread and eternabond tape all of the seams around the slide outs
they will more than likely never leak

Also if you do not have slide Toppers get some installed they really help protect the roof of the slide out.

Having those two items on your slide outs greatly reduce the chance of any future leakage along with sealing around the windows also