Relocate Shore Power Connection - Montana Owners Club

Baldicon · 03-25-2021, 12:44 PM

I am planning on installing a Hughes Autoformer in the generator compartment (no generator there) door side, and also relocate my PI EMS to there too (currently behind distribution panel). The existing power cable from the shore power connection, which is at the rear of my Monty, will need to be spliced to reach the autoformer, and I would rather not have to do that. In conjunction with the autoformer installation, I would like to relocate the shore power connection to the side of the camper, between the convenience center and the water heater. It is a fairly unobstructed area on the inside. From there it looks like an easy cable run to the autoformer and then on to the distribution panel. I will also install plugs to be able to bypass the autofomer and the PI EMS. Another reason to move the shore power plug forward is to be able to reach the generators I carry in my truck bed, and not have to add a second power cable or move the generators. The cable to the rear shore power connection will be disconnected, so there will be no potential shock hazard at the rear plug. My question is, has anyone out there relocated the shore power plug? If so, where did you get the plug and what brand? I found an older thread (2008), where he relocated his connection to the propane tank compartment. I don’t like the idea of introducing a possible arc hazard in an area where there could possible be a propane leak. I always shut the breaker off when connecting/disconnecting the shore power cable, but I may not always be the person doing that.

Thanks in advance

wed · 03-25-2021, 07:09 PM

Check with a good electrician that knows RV’s there a few members that have 2 places to run shore power.

phillyg · 03-26-2021, 07:25 AM

Need an electrician to confirm, but I don't believe you can splice 120/240v lines, but you can connect them thru a junction box. I'm interest since I'd rather have my input plug on the side, too.

mlh · 03-26-2021, 08:02 AM

You can have two connections. I have two one at the front of the camper and one at the back but you MUST have a transfer switch. I build mine. It’s manual but they also make a automatic one.
Lynwood

Arkware · 03-26-2021, 09:07 AM

Here is the plug I used.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
RV 50A Power Inlet Twist Power Easy Lock Connector

Also, I'm in the 'adding a transfer switch' group.
That would give you options for different site setups.

Automatic Transfer Switch - 240 VAC, 50 Amp
like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Progressive-D...omotive&sr=1-3

Either way, best of luck with your mod.

Baldicon · 03-26-2021, 06:05 PM

Thanks for the replies. My plans are to leave the power cord going to the rear of the camper disconnected where I remove it from my PI EMS so a transfer switch would not be needed. Most campgrounds we have stayed at have the power pedistal at the side of the camper, so not sure how often I would ever use the rear connection. To keep it connected would require adding additional cable to the existing cable, it will not reach to the front bay. If I change my my mind and leave it as an optional hookup point, I would definitionally add a transfer switch. Any splice connection would definitely be inside a junction box. Our previous camper had a loose connection where the external power cord (not detachable) connected to the romex that ran to the distribution box, and melted the connection. If it had not been in a junction box, it probably would have started a fire. I repaired the connection with spilt-bolt connectors rather than wire nuts that came from the factory.

Thanks again.

Baldicon · 03-28-2021, 12:38 PM

Lynwood and Ron, where on your trailer did you mount your second plug?

Arkware · 03-28-2021, 01:32 PM

My plug is mounted on the front, between the small battery door and the side, about 18 in . below the light.

mlh · 03-28-2021, 04:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Baldicon

Lynwood and Ron, where on your trailer did you mount your second plug?

The front.
You do need, must have a transfer switch. Without one the connectors that will be exposed will be hot. If someone actually touches one it will be a shocking experience, maybe deadly.
Lynwood

Baldicon · 03-28-2021, 06:43 PM

Thanks, the rear plug will be left unconnected. The cable will be removed for the PI EMS and reterminated in a junction box with the exposed wires cut off and taped. So no shock hazard. The only plug tied to the trailer electrical system will be the new plug. If I change my mind and decide to keep the rear plug in the circuit, I would definitely include a transfer switch.

JCulver · 03-31-2021, 06:47 PM

I added a side 50 amp twist lock on mine. In the front compartment where the generators sits I have to chose which one I’m using the back or side by plugging into the one I’m using. It’s pretty bullet proof because you won’t have power coming in two sources at a time.

Dave W · 04-01-2021, 06:18 AM

I would again opt for a Marinco kit though the price that I paid vs today is frightening at about 2X what it was 10 years ago when I did our Glendale Titanium. The quality is good and it worked just great since Marinco seems to be the leader in these kinds of RV and marine products. Doing a Marinco catalog search, you can piece exactly what you need instead of going with an overpriced "kit".with unneeded parts:

https://www.amazon.com/Marinco-ParkP.../dp/B000NV2VT4

Baldicon · 04-01-2021, 06:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JCulver

I added a side 50 amp twist lock on mine. In the front compartment where the generators sits I have to chose which one I’m using the back or side by plugging into the one I’m using. It’s pretty bullet proof because you won’t have power coming in two sources at a time.

Thanks for the pictures! And excellent work! I'm planning pretty much the same setup, except I'm not going to connect the plug on the rear of the camper, I would have to splice additional cable to it to make it reach the generator compartment. I am going to add a couple of additional plugs in the generator compartment to be able to bypass the autoformer and/or the PI EMS, in case either fail. I have read a couple of instances where one of the contactors has stuck closed and stayed in the boost mode. I don't suppose you would like to make a quick trip to Chattanooga?

VagabondLove · 04-01-2021, 06:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JCulver

I added a side 50 amp twist lock on mine. In the front compartment where the generators sits I have to chose which one I’m using the back or side by plugging into the one I’m using. It’s pretty bullet proof because you won’t have power coming in two sources at a time.

Simple and foolproof. I like it.

Baldicon · 04-01-2021, 07:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dave W

I would again opt for a Marinco kit though the price that I paid vs today is frightening at about 2X what it was 10 years ago when I did our Glendale Titanium. The quality is good and it worked just great since Marinco seems to be the leader in these kinds of RV and marine products. Doing a Marinco catalog search, you can piece exactly what you need instead of going with an overpriced "kit".with unneeded parts:

https://www.amazon.com/Marinco-ParkP.../dp/B000NV2VT4

Thanks Dave, I've already ordered a new plug. I'll bookmark this one in the event I have trouble with the one I've ordered.

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