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Old 05-11-2015, 09:32 AM   #1
Eagleback
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Make My Monty Permanent.

My job has made me a Naples resident,so no more relocating for us at least for awhile so after the cement pad is poured and we get our 8x10 shed I will be placing the monty on the pad. I want to block the monty so the tires are off the ground but not to the aspect that if a hurricane comes I can lower it and skedaddle if needed. can anyone tell me where to block or jack stand the monty on the frame and or can I jack stand on the axels im looking for any help in this area. I do not have hydraulic levelers only the basic stabilizer in the back and the electric landing gear. I am thinking of how to put skirting on but not screw it to the unit. lots to think about. any and all ideas will be appreciated.
 
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Old 05-11-2015, 01:28 PM   #2
WaltBennett
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Haven't tried much of this with our Monty, but did the latter part with an SOB 30' TT once.

First off, you can jack and block the frame so that most of the weight is off the tires. The stabilizers in the rear are the ones you must not lift with. I lift our Monty often with a bottle jack to grease the hubs & check the brakes, but my landing gear is stronger than yours so you will probably have to help the front too. For the front, the stock one motor landing gear isn't up to completely lifting to the level you want and you will probably have to 'help' the landing gear by lifting one and the other side an inch at a time. Don't try getting either side too much different than the other or you'll have problems. You can buy a 4+ ton floor jack to do the lifting part or use a bottle jack on cribbing made of pieces of 4" x 4" (I use 2' long ones). A couple of 5+ ton jack stands will hold the rear up. Place them just in front of the stabilizers and then lower the stabilizers to the ground.

As you're going to be a full timer, I'd suggest getting a total of six jack stands and putting them near each end and close to the middle. The old 30' TT I lived in for almost four years needed four sets as the frame was junk. If you've most of the weight off the tires, you should be able to jack each one up and support the axle, but I don't think that's needed. Doing that would make getting out of Dodge more difficult than just running around with a floor/bottle jack and lowering stuff.

As to skirting; there are a couple of companies on the Internet that sell snap on or velcro skirting. Considering where you'll be, I don't know as I'd want a place for the odd critter to make a home, but that's just me.
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Old 05-12-2015, 12:32 AM   #3
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Should I block or say jack stand the frame first just behind the leaf springs then bring up the front then add blocks or stands to just in front of the leaf springs then block or stands to the back and to the front from there?. Thinking about using 8 stands, 4 for the frame in front and behind the springs then two between the front landing gear and the springs and 2 at the back and leaving the stabilizers up. my main concern is where to start seeing I do not want to break something. Thanks for your incite. also I was going to use 6 ton stands from harbor freight and that I'm hoping will let me hang enough so I can remove the tires or at least jack up the axels enough to get them off if I need to.
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Old 05-12-2015, 01:55 AM   #4
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Can't help with ideas about blocking it up. However, we have found that most of the cities/counties in Florida have very specific rules about things related to the hurricane season. The park we spent last winter in (Fort Myers Beach) any of the owner that were leaving their units for the summer had to have them secured with hurricane straps to the concrete pads. Likewise, we are putting a large shed in our back yard of our Cape Coral home this summer and it has to be secured with hurricane straps.
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Old 05-12-2015, 02:43 AM   #5
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We also own SOB Destination trailer (Park Model 8ft wide x 42ft) our Dealer in businees over 50 years selling znd servicing trailers in Campgrounds highly recommends you do not block with wheels of the ground.what they do is first lay a 12x12 flat block then two concrete blocks then drive a wooden wedge shim so it is making tight contact with the frame then drop the Psi in the tires about 10 lbs.This will take away any rock.
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Old 05-12-2015, 03:38 AM   #6
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Ok. yes I thought that was unusual that the 6 and 6 people that leave there units do not have to strap them down but its there risk, my new shed will be strapped but not my unit I will be moving that when the winds come. and yes I said when not if. but the wedges, I have seen this and it looks like that might be the way to go.
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Old 05-12-2015, 05:17 AM   #7
kdeiss
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Those leaving their units in Florida for more then 6 Months and have Insurance Coverage with your Northern Agent and Address check with them to be sure you have coverage!
We were told the RV has to be in your home state for 6 Months
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Old 05-12-2015, 06:23 AM   #8
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What insurance do you go through. ours is Florida plate and Michigan insurance. and my agent knows I am working outside Michigan and we are covered being also we are still Michigan resident's.
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Old 05-12-2015, 08:31 AM   #9
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Just thinking beyond the box but don't know the cost. Inquire around for mobile home installers ... they have the equipment and materials to get you set the first time. You can take it from there should you need to move.
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Old 05-13-2015, 12:19 AM   #10
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I just helped my neighbor on his SOB and we used 2 bottle jacks forward and aft of the spring shackles, jacked up one side the he placed a block with a chunk of 2x6 under the axel at the spring connection. did that to the other side and now the wheels are off the ground. then we blocked the front and lifted the hydraulic landing gear all the way up so it wont rust. then block and shimmed the rest of the trailer and it seemed to work well. dose that sound like a good way to go?. I didn't say anything good or bad to him with this procedure seeing it was his unit.
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